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List of forums / Slovenia / Lienz Dolomites / Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig

Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig

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UROS123. 06. 2014 17:38:35
Hello! This weekend 21-22 June 14 I was in Lienz Dolomites for the first time and was more than rewarded.
More precisely - I went to the highest peak of Lienz Dolomites - Grosse Sandspitze 2770m via climbing route over 4 peaks. Very nice and also very very demanding! Pictures say it all....nasmeh
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 1
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 2
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 3
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 4
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 5
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 6
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 7
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 8
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 9
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 10
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 11
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 12
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 13
Grosse Sandspitze - Klettersteig 14
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BibaS23. 06. 2014 17:46:30
Wow, nice! Congratulations nasmeh
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LidijaJesih29. 09. 2014 18:15:40
With PD Medvode this time 16 enthusiasts on a two-day trip through the Lienz Dolomites. Just before Lienz we turn left towards Lavant, then soon left again towards Lienzer Dolomitenhütte. At over 1600m there's a parking lot a few minutes from the mentioned hut, to the next hut, Karlsbader, it's an hour and a half of nice ascent already colored by larches. The hut stands by two lakes, in an amphitheater surrounded by two-and-a-half-thousanders and a bit more. Unfortunately they closed the hut on Sunday, otherwise it's friendly and comfortable, our PD card also counts for discount. After accommodation we continued to Grosse Sandspitze, the highest peak of the mountain ridge at 2776m. We ascended via a via ferrata not described on these web pages, it's relatively new and starts 20 minutes straight up from the hut in a large gully, which it then follows along the edge to the right and joins the Ari Schubel path in the upper part, by which we descended. The via ferrata difficulty is A/C, with some slightly more demanding spots, no pegs or bolts, just wire. After exiting the via ferrata follows the summit scree, then the last more demanding part, a traverse right below the summit.
Very nice path, exceptional views and gorgeous weather. For the finale, Dolomite west with golden walls and sweet sleep in the warm hut. On the Karlsbader hut website there are many descriptions of via ferratas and climbing routes in the area, every mountain (over 10 of them) has at least one via ferrata leading to it, difficulties up to E or more. Paradise.
View of the Lienz Dolomites from Lavant, left the highest Sanspitze, right Roter Turm1
Lienzer Dolomitenhütte hut, starting point2
Views are beginning, this must be Spitzkofel3
Towards the lakes4
Roter Turm greets us5
The path is nice and wide, even road-like.6
Laserzwand, Great and Small, we were here too7
in the middle right Sandspitze, here the highest, today's peak8
between larch tops the hut appears9
beautiful surroundings of Karlsbaderhütte hut10
towards Sandspitze, via ferrata runs in prominent gully in middle of wall11
start12
ascent on via ferrata13
a bit on scree14
view downwards, lake below15
occasionally quite steep16
out of the via ferrata17
here is already the Ari Schubel path18
scree below the summit19
summit head20
just below the summit21
views22
hut and lake below23
descent24
a little caution doesn't hurt25
exposed traverse26
....27
still a little ascent ....28
and the last more demanding descent29
nasty scree, descent on it took a while30
on comfortable terrain31
Dolomitic sunsets32
(+3)like
Bojan_A16. 10. 2017 07:28:46
We walked the wonderful Panorama klettersteig via ferrata on Grosse Sandspitze:
https://bojanambrozic.com/2017/10/16/grosse-sandspitze/
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pg27. 09. 2021 17:33:28
Kl. and Gr. Laserzkopf (2718 m), Galitzenspitzen (2710 m), Daumen (2720 m), Große Sandspitze (2772 m) - Gailtal Alps

A day after the ascent to Glödis (post at https://www.hribi.net/trenutne_razmere/aut/glodis_3206_m_visoke_ture_skupina_hochschober/57/6222) my friend and I set off on the beautiful grand via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which traverses most of the central group of the Lienz Dolomites (which represent the highest and westernmost part of the Gailtal Alps), and ends at the monarch of the range, the 2772 m high Große Sandspitze [strictly speaking it's the "Sepp-Oberlechner-Gedächtnisweg" route, the Panorama-Klettersteig marking represents a complete circular traverse, where the mentioned route is combined with descent to the Karlsbader hut via easier "Gebirgsjägersteig" or "Ari-Schübel-Steig" - the site editor can correct the slip in the description].

Due to late return from Glödis and unfavorable road conditions we arrived late at the large parking lot at Lienzer Dolomitenhütte and reached the spacious Karlsbader Hütte at 2260 m already at night.
Next morning we headed to the start of the famous ridge via ferrata Panorama-Klettersteig, which leads across most of the central Lienz Dolomites group to Große Sandspitze. The modern via ferrata over the summits of Laserzkopf, Galitzenspitzen and Daumen is scenically very attractive, excellently routed and perfectly secured - as such it perhaps represents the most a mountaineer can do non-alpinistically in the Lienz Dolomites in one go.
Technically the via ferrata is not among the most difficult - the most demanding is the ascent to the bold tower Daumen, which at one spot (chimney) reaches C/D difficulty (which might even be slightly exaggerated, as the chimney is relatively unexposed and short, perhaps even more demanding are the ascent to Laserzkopf, the first part of the ascent to Daumen and descent from it) - otherwise the climbing grade is up to C. On the other hand it's a very long and airy secured path with regular ups and downs requiring sustained concentration; but perfectly secured and on surprisingly solid rock - good spirits during the traverse are aided by the wonderful deep views it constantly offers.

From the very panoramic range summit we quickly descended the much easier Ari Schübel path (just one annoying exposed traverse and B/C spot, the rest easier but crumbly) past the hut to the car. My friend then continued towards Innsbruck, I headed to evening work obligations.

Unlike the ascent to Glödis the day before, wonderful weather accompanied us this time, offering expansive views. Conditions are of course still summery, the Karlsbader hut is open until the end of the first weekend in October. The Lienz Dolomites are a popular and compact range that character-wise stands out quite a bit from the rest of the Gailtal Alps, thus surely offering the guest some attractive rewards for the effort invested.

Bottom line - in my personal conclusion of this year's high season in foreign mountains at the end of the calendar summer it was a fairly grand trip on two appealing paths, which due to their marked and secured nature were perhaps somewhat easier orientation-wise, but still very tempting and worth the somewhat longer drive. Recommended.
Morning view from Karlsbader Hütte towards the north1
Ascent to the via ferrata start at about 2600 m I.2
Ascent to the via ferrata start at about 2600 m II.: view back to the hut and Laserzsee lake3
Ascent to the via ferrata start at about 2600 m III.: view back to the hut and Laserzsee lake4
Ascent to the via ferrata start at about 2600 m IV.: overview of continuation; via ferrata runs over the pinnacles in the picture5
View back along the path to the via ferrata6
Easier start of ascent to the ridge (A/B)7
Slightly more difficult approach below Kl. Laserzkopf (B/C section)8
Kl. Laserzkopf I.9
Kl. Laserzkopf II.: view back along the approach path10
Kl. Laserzkopf III.: view towards the hut and Laserzsee lake11
Kl. Laserzkopf IV.: view of the western part of the Drava Valley12
View towards the northern part of the central ridge of the Lienz Dolomites - the peak with the cross is Roter Turm (marked, but unprotected approach via a large chimney, II-III)13
Continuation of the path towards Gr. Laserzkopf14
Ascent to Laserzkopf I.: airy scrambling on the west side of the mountain (sections B/C)15
Ascent to Laserzkopf II.: airy scrambling on the west side of the mountain16
Ascent to Laserzkopf III.: vertical climb towards the summit ridge (B/C, perhaps even C)17
Ascent to Laserzkopf IV.: easier but still airy summit ridge18
Laserzkopf (2718 m): view towards the continuation of the path19
Descent towards the notch between Laserzkopf and Galitzenspitzen20
Ledge between the rocky ribs of Galitzenšpic21
Steep ascent to Gr. Galitzespitze I.: view back22
Steep ascent to Gr. Galitzespitze II.: view back23
(Gr.) Galitzenspitze(n) (2710 m): view back during friend's arrival at the summit24
Panorama of the ridge path with Galitzenspitzen25
View towards the continuation of the path over Kl. Galitzenspitze and Daumn to Gr. Sandspitze26
Descent from Gr. Galitzenspitze: view back27
Crossing the airy ridge of Galitzenspitzen I.28
Traversing the airy ridge of Galitzenspitzen II.29
Descent from Kl. Galitzenspitze: view back I.30
Descent from Kl. Galitzenspitze: view back II.31
Steep descent to the notch between Galitzenspitzen and Daumn, from where a secured descent to Karsbader hut is possible, avoiding the most difficult part of the ferrata.32
Almost vertical beginning of the ascent to Daumn.33
View back at the traverse after the first part of the ascent to Daumn (mostly B/C).34
Vertical but well secured chimney below Daumn I. (C/D, but less exposed and perhaps slightly overrated).35
Vertical but well secured chimney below Daumn II.: view back.36
Steep and demanding descent from Daumn (down to B/C) I.37
Steep and demanding descent from Daumn (down to B/C) II.38
View towards Roter Turm and the path up which we ascend to the ferrata.39
Final, less difficult ascent to Gr. Sandspitze I.40
Final, less difficult ascent to Gr. Sandspitze II.: view back.41
Final, less difficult ascent to Gr. Sandspitze III.: overview of the entire route just below the summit.42
Große Sandspitze I.43
Große Sandspitze II.: view towards the Drava valley.44
Große Sandspitze III.: panorama of the attractive Lienz Dolomites.45
Große Sandspitze IV.: view towards Karlsbader hut and Laserzsee lake.46
Easy but crumbly section of the descent on the Ari-Schübel path.47
View back to the most demanding part of the descent (exposed ledge followed by steep descent rated B/C).48
View towards the end of the panoramic path near the hut49
Crossing under Kl. Sandspitze I.: short easy secured descent on the path50
Crossing under Kl. Sandspitze II.: ascent towards the final part of the crossing51
Steep secured descent to the scree I.52
Steep secured descent to the scree II.: view back53
View towards the slightly unpleasant but not excessive scree field that we cross on the left54
View back towards the scree55
Near Laserzsee lake56
Descent to the parking lot I.: view back to the hut and the walked ridge57
Descent to the parking lot II.: snapshot from the descent58
Descent to the parking lot III.: overview of the entire traversed ridge, where from left to right in the center of the photo Laserzkopf, Galitzenspitzen, Daumen and Sandspitzen line up59
Descent to the parking lot IV.60
Descent to the parking lot V.: picturesque meadow Instein shortly before Lienzer Dolomitenhütte61
Descent to the parking lot VI.: view towards Lienzer Dolomitenhütte62
View back to the core of the Lienz Dolomites63
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felix28. 09. 2021 08:29:10
Wonderful tour and photos. Interested in traverse times - if there's official info somewhere, since one person can be fast and time isn't objective for all.
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pg28. 09. 2021 12:57:43
felix, thanks. The excursion is really gorgeous - panoramic, fun and excellently protected - but due to features of this part of Gail Alps and many interesting ferratas and easier climbs to summits above the hut, I'd recommend overnight in large pleasant Karlsbader Hütte and climb another hill (many routes in Lienz Dolomites, unofficial name or compact range name, described on portal).

On timing: we hurried due to afternoon obligations, so (especially on descent) speeded up a bit. Time on hribi.net is overstated - average hiker at least 1.5h to hut (official 2:15 too conservative), plus good hour steep to ferrata start. Ferrata airy and demanding spots, count at least 3h to Grosse Sandspitze - official traverse time, which we took at moderate pace. Views demand stops, add a bit.
Descent Ari Schubel to start in just over 2h, faster pace. Maybe count 1.5h descent to hut (recall official ascent on descent path 2.5h, exaggerated, descent fast except secured spots).
Reminder: small elev. diff. Karlsbader to Grosse Sandspitze (512m), but Panorama ridge has many descents to notches and reascents.

Happy trails,
Gašper

PS: topographic sketch of route with official times
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