| jerque5. 01. 2024 21:44:39 |
Also a guide for one of the alternative paths to Javorč, namely the thematic Rupnik Line path, along which there's quite a bit to see due to strategic importance of Poljanska dolina. I walked it already on May 6, 2023 (turned out later it was the only nice weekend in the "most beautiful month"), photos found recently while "cleaning attic" and posting here too, if someone's feet itch to follow my footsteps. Better if could insert them between paragraphs, but...
Probably all know official marked alpine path from Gorenja vas to Javorč. This "Rupnik" one is routed about 1km west and joins the official only on last third (goal Javorč). As name says, thematic path for those interested in this little known part of our "recent history". Along it nice number of preserved bunkers of various types and sizes. Path troddenness shows no mass visits, I met almost no one to Javorč top except handful locals, perfect (how long still?) for lovers of remote spots. But true, somewhat harder to walk in places, even through brush, "marked" so-so, so probably not too interesting for pure recreational walkers uninterested in history. Definitely need proper hiking boots, flashlight welcome for bunker exploring (luckily Germans didn't wall most), tick protection depending on season highly recommended. If afraid of bats, view bunkers from outside only. Bunkers on first part mostly "hidden" in thicket, best time late autumn when leaves off, those in final part most "instagramable" in late spring/summer when meadows green and flowering. Anyway worth circling most bunkers and viewing from angles. Often something looking like "another concrete block" from path shows elegant architecture with domes etc from other angle.
The path maintained by Zavod Poljanska dolina, who prepared two thematic paths. Shorter circular on Volčja njiva and Hrastje area, hill above "bend" of Poljanska Sora west of Gorenja vas. From seen part easy, suitable families with small kids, mostly bilingual info boards child-friendly, Škofov Francelj explaining construction simply. Longer starts along eastern part of shorter, branches at top Volčja njiva towards Hrastov grič where officially ends, but for nicest bunkers follow Knafelj marks (red-white circles) to Javorč. Info boards only at some bunkers, stylistically different, more professional, hard for non-military history buffs.
As said, path for history interested. Where to learn properly about Rupnik Line? Best in book "Rupnikova linija : odkrivanje utrdb ob rapalski meji", though author Aleksander Jankovič Potočnik not pro historian, more enthusiast. Note get 2009 edition, author admits first 2004 edition had errors. Hoped on "Meja na razvodnici : ob stoletnici podpisa rapalske pogodbe : 1920-2020 : planinsko-zgodovinski vodnik" by Dušan Škodič, but focused on border stones, somewhat Alpine Wall remains, Rupnik Line barely mentioned. Also read "Dediščina rapalske meje : Rupnikova linija in Alpski zid, življenje ob rapalski meji v letih 1918-43(47) : poskus utemeljitve nove muzejske zbirke" by local journalist Miha Naglič, not much more verbose on Rupnik Line, mostly collab with Jankovič Potočnik. Cobiss just told new book "Rupnikova linija : boj za severno fronto. Knj. 1, Nastanek in gradnja 1938-1940" by Aleš Zelenk, definitely get and read.
Once "armed" with history, equip with navigation before start. Official marks too sparse/inconsistent to rely, area sparsely populated no asking locals, official path crosses roads illogical for outsiders, temptation nicer road leads astray. Best install maPZS app on phone, download map south of Gorenja vas pre-hike. As known, red lines mark PZS maintained paths with Knafelj marks. Luckily PZS marks also "competitor" paths incl Zavod Poljanska dolina. So find full official longer path joining official alpine path to Javorč (drawn on main road but marks direct to foot-friendly shortcuts drawn too). For field names etc use maPZS topo names. Also OpenStreetMap (OSM) useful, at zoom see volunteer drew bunkers/tables/signs along shorter path, but missed some. Maybe useful someone posted on Hribi.net GPS track to Hrastov grič, looks OK. Time estimate: I took ~3.5h from Gorenja vas to Javorč with short break, circling almost every bunker inside/out. Without that half or full hour less.
Before start, quick on bunker naming. Except few largest no names, no visible labels now, so for this "photo report" number chronologically as encountered, starting 0 at start. Numbers in photo desc ease confusion at end pics (forum can't insert between paras). Not excluding some escaped my attentive eye.
Now start! Start "point 0" at NW corner Gorenja vas cemetery, right bank Poljanska Sora. Some parking, spot first bunker #0 per nomenclature. Exact history unknown, seems relocated or recent replica. Wood inside too fresh anyway. Nearby two concrete anti-tank obstacles meant for Zapuže near Radovljica, consolation board photo of Gorenja vas anti-tank defense.
Original plan bunker #1 above Poljanska Sora bank west, but headed south along cemetery official path, so saved for next. Anyway end path turn right asphalt, first left bend surviving stairs old border post demolished by occupiers. Now private garden behind stairs.
Road soon to track, further from clearing to forest. Studied OSM before, knew another bunker off official paths, modern tech easy find right track to there, then small disappointment doghouse size, flooded inside too. Judge from pics if worth detour to #1.
Back same way to official, few meters "official" #2 aka small standard object, own board, invited inside more boards. See Kingdom Yugoslavia included Adriatic hinterland e.g. Dalmatia (sans Zadar islands), Herzegovina, Montenegro..., known tall people genetically, my normal man size no head bumping, unlike Italian bunkers. Anyway this bunker not best from path.
Continue up path, look well spot small #3 top steep slope left, not even on OSM. Charge up slope or find from higher junction. Small, unofficial, overgrown hard access, one gun slit filled.
Continue official to junction. If wondered how material hauled in gorges, board at junction explains.
Here turn right, soon right off path but unmissable nice "official" #4, must circle. To learn enter, boards inside.
Further board "nowhere" teaches builders without machinery.
Bit further junction shorter/longer paths split. Before new concrete board. True, bunkers hold well after ~90yrs no maint, General Rupnik supervised quality concrete.
Near board #5, view from angles top/bottom but boring block, ivy overgrown, walled by occupier.
From marked junction left for longer, but knew from OSM first right shorter to Hrastje top, soon #6 mg nest small cube half-filled entry.
Left shorter surprises for later, back to #5 final split. Soon near indistinct Volčja njiva top #7 walled too, amorphous block most angles. But climb nearby slope see unfinished dome corner.
First harder section. #7 end "pier", down steep poor path south to gravel road turn right down. Left quarry (OSM Kamnolom Lajše), circle west edge. Don't stare quarry miss narrow #8 opening right. So narrow hard imagine starved soldier inside. No time unproductive thoughts, meters on sharp track join right, confirms suspicions two gun slits other side #8. Bit high direct look but hand up blind snap inside.
Road circles quarry (missed one offpath maybe, oh well) nears south edge. Signs entry forbidden unclear quarry or road. No one there then "saw nothing". Near past quarry right track (nav great help). Path forest bit, emerges junction straight closed, near 180 right turn new nice photogenic "small standard" #9. Tilted pillar first new style learned board. Has Denkschrift bunker plan, German occupier inventory "inherited" military infra, key source Jankovič Potočnik book. Sad data on our tech heritage from ex-occupier archives...
From here path lost short, unclear continue. Steep slope brush fallen trees barricades, easiest straight up Frjančev grič slope till flattens track meadow edge. Missed bunker? Dunno. Track to gravel, rejoin official past lonely house, soon nav off to path wood/meadow.... New barricade electric fence crossing path. Hmm? Often gentle look farmer allowed trespass, no soul around. Give up back steep? During think spot easy step over wire, edge meadow "conspiratorial" sneak road min damage. Done, quick camera board strategic Poljanska dolina after fence.
Reach road fallen direction board, nav confirms off road forest path shorten past Kočar hamlet few houses. Past Kočar path up wood slope Mala koča. Along path two more bunkers. #10 "mg bunker" "small standard" own board.
Little further junction "unofficial" (no board) #11 corner slit spruce roof.
Path gentle up south soon leaves forest. Before sun temptation careful, just before exit left #12 accessible inside.
Right after road, junction “Zaleše Z” join official alpine well marked no more satnav. Enter Zaleše hamlet part Žirovski Vrh sv. Antona (wonder how coined complex name, no known church to saint). Who came official from Gorenja vas at Zaleše houses stick road bottom meadow, soon right space hay bales, then our thematic joins right, spot #12 quick near split.
At “Zaleše Z” "official" right alpine, but intel knew more first left (to Gorenja vas) meters first house (eco farm?) #13 private yard, bean trellis support.
Back past “Zaleše Z” road meadow edge till marks side wood path. Nearly missed #14 forest, maybe last peek inside. Someone trusts 90yr concrete ladder against roof chair sits.
Path out forest again watch right. Junction board, ahead "Odporna točka Žirovski vrh" aka "Hrastov grič". More than bunker has name no number. Largest "underground city" started (larger planned Vrhu sv. treh kraljev paper only). Board shows grand "heavy standard 66" before existing "mine" entry. Entry closed, guided tours groups by appt not here but vertical shafts (top bunkers like Goli vrh not built). No maps area overgrown no blind search, peeked grille. Alleged alpine control point no logbook visible, stamp wire ripped.
Official thematic ends Hrastov grič. Immediate return blasphemy. Compared so far continuation to Javorč easy stroll. Rewarded min 3 photogenic bunkers. Continue track junction “Brivec Z” asphalt Gorenja vas - Goli vrh built for Rupnik underground construction. Roadside signed parking for Hrastov grič groups prob. Before #15 meadow edge first nicer. Without trees near too kitsch despite uncleaned.
Notice trodden shortcut from #15 meadow before road again #16 if not inattentive small nearly buried short stay.
Continue road (soon Žirovski Vrh sv. Urbana / Maruc) or parallel marked, new meadow from forest #17 beauty despite thicket roof. May "great grass" justified distant shots no trampling uncut.
Path/road forest bit out new meadow #18 last prob nicest. Cleaned aware potential, photo purists gripe only powerline pole near sans grass.
Meadow end alpine control Javorč top. Often near house not hut unclear "alpines" hunters deal no hut placement. Though Sat open sole eatery gorenja side Žirovski vrh closed noon that Sat, few visitors relied own supplies.
That's it, solid half-day recon yield. Missed notable? Need micro-loc tips? Interest ad-hoc Hrastov grič tour? Speak up comments.
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