| redbull9. 08. 2020 10:50:22 |
08.08.2020 In the Western Julian Alps it is one of the peaks rarely visited. Per year maybe visited only as many as fingers on a hand and that might even be too much. The mountain in the shadow of Montaž with height 1974 m, Jof di Miez. I got the route description in detail. The weather was ordered for such a tour and so Filip and I drive to Dogna. Past the hamlet Chiout and just a bit further the road branches off right downhill to the small village Pleziche (Plečke as we say). The road is really narrow, houses are few too, one, two... It was just past six when we already spotted number 655 at the start. That is the number leading to the Rio Saline gorge, otherwise this path is more or less abandoned to the ferrata Norino. We searched for this number years ago with a buddy when descending from Norino. To find it from the top is impossible. Nice starting path through the forest, over a little bridge and under our feet beautiful water, at first glance similar to the Soča riverbeds. We reach a road which we follow to the end until it turns into a cart track. Here somewhere to the left the ascent to Clap Blanc begins. The grassy cart track is overgrown here and there, but the path downhill to the gurgling stream Rio Saline is quite followable. Nicely placed cairns greet us. We cool the beer in the water as it will come in handy on the return. The Rio Saline gorge has started and it won't end so quickly. We walk along the left side of the stream. Higher, where the stream is Y-shaped, we head logically left. Jof di Miez has already appeared here. The needle ridge from it all the way to the Curtissons (Klavni noži) is already slowly peeking out. It wasn't far to the entry into the Livinal Lung gorge. There is incredibly much water, you have it all the time. It is a very demanding pathless terrain with some cairns. The rocks reminded us of the start of Via Dogna years ago, the needle ridge above us was climbed in 1932 by Trieste climbers and that should be the only one. What the difficulty is can be guessed since there were no repeats. The first narrow ledge is not the right one, but the second is correct. The arrow indicated the right direction and we were glad to be where we should be. I hear voices and look, damn, two were ascending Jof di Miez and apparently on this one, the first pitch. Visually they got a bit lost in the bushes, but it will probably go. We were on the right Kugy route. The ledge is nicely gravelly, there is enough scree "for all". The ledge really isn't bad, I expected even greater difficulty and that's right. Better to prepare for a difficult route before the tour than to expect something normal. There was one narrower part, otherwise all OK. Above the larches everything turns into a more or less bushy world. It wasn't easy at times, as some long pants despite the heat would have come in handy. We tried to detour completely onto the rocky ridge, but even there bushes were growing right out of the rock. The summit wasn't close at all, so we nicely traversed left for quite some time through the "beautiful" bushes. The Italians were at the summit and at times we chatted as if we were classmates, but everyone spoke in their own language and so we had no idea. It's hard to speak Italian if you don't know it, that's normal. Clap Blanc below us, on the right side the gorge Clapadorie with the incredible Via Dogna to Montaž. Montaž is incredibly mighty from this side and for me definitely the most beautiful from here. The Walhalske ledges which arrive in the gully Val Rotta on the left side are incredible. On the left side is the gorge through which we came and that is Rio Saline. It had no end. We linger a bit, but we need to go back. Lower, carefully along the ledge back to Livinal Lung. The beer was cold and everyone sipped it, there is enough water. It was really incredibly warm. Back to the parking through the forest and with some small ascent we are where we started the tour. Crazy experience, especially discovering something new.
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