| Filip_Culjak8. 07. 2020 13:14:49 |
On Friday, 3.7. we started driving late in the afternoon from Zagreb towards Zaizeri and slept there. Wake-up on Saturday, 4.7. was at five, we had a little breakfast, slowly checked all necessary gear and started at 6:30 towards bivouac Stuparich. After one hour the normal path to Stuparich turns decidedly left, we continue on path 639 straight through some kind of torrent gorge past which the steep rock jump is avoided to the right by the path. We follow path 639 all the way to 1600 m where the path turns decidedly right, we head into the aforementioned torrent gorge straight through some smaller rock jumps (II, max III if choosing harder jumps). Here one needs to be a bit careful because of very smooth boulders which need to be climbed. Through a couple of minutes of easier scrambling over boulders the gorge flattens and we continue in the direction of the next gorge that drops between Dragon Ridge and Krnicki Turn (2048 m). We follow the gorge to its end at saddle Forca del Montasio. In the gorge there are quite a few unstable boulders and it is full of scree. At the saddle we head left to Dragon Ridge. Here starts the climbing part of the tour. We climb about 200 meters of elevation difference constantly at difficulty II, some parts III. At the start climbing is quite airy and fairly crumbly, in the second half the slope flattens a bit. After a couple of minutes we reach a distinct chimney, which we climb straight (about 15-20m, III+) and that is the detail of the first part of the tour. Once out of the chimney, we turn back and stop so as to be a bit higher than the height of Krnicki Turn. On the right we spot a cairn that leads us from the northern towards the western wall of Montasio. Here starts the famous ledge called Cenge di Walhalla which traverses for quite a while towards the rocky shoulder called Jof Moz. To reach the Walhalla ledge one needs to descend about 30 m (equipped quite worn anchor for abseil). Possible to downclimb, rock is good here and difficulty does not exceed II. But quite exposed. Walhalla ledge initially looks really bad, but when on it is actually very comfortable and most of the time walkable, at most 2 spots need to use hands. This is the nicest part of the tour and most enjoyable. We walk in incredible ambience of huge walls and skyscraper pillars characteristic for Montasio's west side. Views are wonderful. Everything can be seen from Dolomites, Carnic Alps to Hohe Tauern. In about 20 minutes of leisurely walk we reach Jof Moz shoulder. Here in 1903 famous Julius Kugy ended his adventure and turned back. In 1911 another top master Ferdinand Horn led the upper part of the route to junction with Via Dogna under Sphinx. A bit descend on exposed grassy ledge to distinct gully. We climb it on smoothed white rock, a couple more meters up and head slightly right up into system of ledges and small chimneys all the way to second gully. Entry to this gully is a bit awkward, goes across a bit of overhang, but slowly and no problem. In second gully numerous pools and the gully is quite slippery. After a few minutes of climbing through the gully the continuation is blocked by black slippery overhang. We bypass it to the left and then cross back to the gully on very delicate traverse (IV-). When back in the gully two variants are possible. First is to go right here into the clearly visible system of chimneys for the next 80 m (IV, max IV+ if a bit off the ideal line). Second option is to continue to the gully, climb one bigger boulder and when before huge black wet overhanging walls head to the right wall (in Italian records III+ to IV-). We chose the first variant due to two overhanging snowfields which prevented continuation in the gully. Although we had crampons and ice axes, snowfields looked really unclimbable. In unmistakable chimneys we climb slightly to the right (constant IV, really good rock). And when out of the last overhanging chimney the slope flattens a bit. Here we packed the rope and continued traversing right up the steep rocky slope which is constantly crumbly and very exposed. Here one needs to check every hold. We quickly gain height and reach the grassy ledge which encircles the summit wall of Sphinx. Here one needs to be careful due to extreme exposure of the grassy slopes, at some places climb a bit down or up and we are quickly at the junction with Via Dogna. Continuation to junction with Via Amalio without features, no snowfield to Suringar. On the other side to Spalla Nord where Amalia turns to the north side there is one, but bypassable. Findenegg fully snow-free. No snow on marked path. From Montasio summit descent via Pipan ladder to Pecol and down to Sella Nevea (Na Žlebeh) where we had reservation at hotel Canin for overnight. After spent night and rich breakfast we headed a bit on foot, a bit by hitchhiking towards Zaizeri. To Zaizeri we arrived at 12. Unforgettable tour, one of the rare ones which offers the feeling of first climbers and enthuses.
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