Kotova špica, V koncu špica and Vevnica
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| rokeg29. 08. 2024 18:05:27 |
I also did the following tour recently. By buses to Rateče, then across the border past Belopeška Lakes and Zacchi hut and via Kugy path to Strug, along the ridge to Vevnica, then to V Koncu špica and Kotova špica, and back to Vevnica. Then to nice bivouac Alberto Busettini to sleep and second day I wanted to go via Mali Koritniški Mangart to Mangart, but unfortunately it didn't work and I had to go back to bivouac and through a small landslide to the junction of paths for Mangart and bivouac and to the edge above Stop summit and on my own to Mali Koritniški Mangart and along the ridge to Mangart and via Slovenian path and past Nogara bivouac back to Rateče.
Kugy path is nicely secured, if not too much for such a "wild" mountain. The entry snowfield is a bit awkward, but can be nicely bypassed left on "rotten" rocks where there's no hold or everything stays in hand. Then nicely led path to the top. Strugove špice are very interesting. To Strugova škrbina the path is still relatively well secured. Further towards Vevnica it's in very bad condition. Many cables are torn, just at the most collapsed and precipitous spot there's a replacement rope that's not the most reliable and the passage is quite adrenaline-filled. Luckily further to the top it's not demanding anymore.
From Vevnica V Koncu špica looks unapproachable, but there's a nice ramp to the border stone, to the top a few meters on quite collapsed ridge, then you realize it's not much higher. To Kotova špica is another story. First jump soon after the top I still climb nicely, then some easier terrain, when you find yourself above an overhanging rock with stance. Almost turn back when I spot a nice ledge on Tamar side that brings me over a short drop nicely to the notch, then turn to Koritnica side on nice ramp. At its end collapsed climbing and into easier terrain and to the spacious top of Kotova špica. I do a circuit around and descend via easier Tamar side back to VKŠ. I built 3 cairns for easier orientation. The terrain didn't seem so collapsed to me. Then I went to Vevnica once more and to bivouac. I was alone. Second day I tried directly up the gully to MKM, at first nicely secured and marked path, but when the path turns into gully, there's an "angle" to the left, I spotted a red dot, then nothing passable seemed to me. Maybe someone knows where I should go? I try further up the gully to the border, but to the top all smooth  ... descend via really poorly marked, maintained and scree path to Mangart junction. Via very poorly marked path to Stop summit. There I leave the path into steep grass reaching Trentarsko II, which brings me via nice gully to the ridge, from where 10 min more to MKM top. Then follow cairns to Huda škrbina which is really bad. Then climb to Huda škrbina summit marked in OSM, otherwise not a summit. Maybe someone knows where the real summit is from Marijana and Markot list? Should be 2401 m, which matches current OSM location. Continued on steep grass to Mangart. At Nogara bivouac I wait out 15 min shower and descend wet path to Belopeška Lakes and to Rateče, then 7h drive home. At first no bus at all, then train from Jesenice delayed so much I missed last bus and had to call taxi....
I'm interested if Kugy path is marked as very difficult or extremely difficult?
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| KlemenK30. 08. 2024 01:25:06 |
from pic 37 on you should soon come across a loosely tensioned, thinner cable that helps you through a short gully, which is also the most demanding part of the ascent. I think it's more to the left and that actually poorly visible marks lead you to it. up to that cable there shouldn't be anywhere more than UIAA I, if I remember correctly.
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| redbull30. 08. 2024 04:57:25 |
You have to reach the cable that takes you into the even terrain of MKM. If around V Koncu Špica and Kotova Špica nothing was hard for you then this part is a walkover. If you didn't see it then you surely climbed II or more. Interesting
Good luck
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| rokeg30. 08. 2024 08:00:42 |
Thanks to both for the reply. I read that I should reach the gully with the cable, where it should be III without the cable. But I didn't find either the next mark or the cable. Further on everything seemed much harder to me than the Kotova špica ridge, so I turned back and went to MKM from the path from Loška Koritnica to Mangart. 1.5 h longer. I also tried the gully which is collapsed and surely II. I'd say max. trentarska II.
Redbull, thanks likewise.
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| janezs7330. 08. 2024 12:18:46 |
From bivouac towards MKM the route is visible on your pic 39. From those grasses under walls strongly right, then up the gully, stay more on left. Cable is in middle part of gully on left. Nowhere else.
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| turbo30. 08. 2024 12:20:49 |
Less than thirty years ago there was a free-hanging chain (ketna) in the gully, by which you pulled yourself up.
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| rokeg30. 08. 2024 13:00:08 |
Janez, thanks for the description. On my 34th photo the gully with the cable should then be visible. It's taken from the "corner" upwards, where I couldn't find the continuation.
I have the feeling like I turned back right below the summit.
Turbo, interesting.
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| rokeg30. 08. 2024 21:58:17 |
I myself read before the "expedition" most pages and posts here above and from Marijana and Marko and a little on Primorske stene. I also had signal on site to check photos here and navigation, but it only showed that I have to go into the smooth wall. I searched for the path another half hour, then figured it won't go and went around, so I had to quickly descend to the valley not to miss the bus. Otherwise it wasn't such a problem for me to go down and back up, since fitness isn't an issue right now.
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| KlemenK30. 08. 2024 22:32:42 |
I like this exchange of experiences, pity there's not more of it lately on this website. You also learned quite a bit about current conditions here sometimes, now there's hardly any. Attaching the best photo I have, let someone more certain than me draw the route.
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| janezs7330. 08. 2024 23:25:01 |
From memory I'd say like this. The upper part is crucial. Cables are there where the strong shadows are on the photo. In the middle part follow logical passages.
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| rokeg31. 08. 2024 07:58:51 |
KlemenK, I also like reading posts here. It's true there's not as many posts as there used to be.
Janez, thanks for the drawn route. Maybe I'll go Via della Vita sometime and explore this path better.
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| dprapr31. 08. 2024 14:22:11 |
No need to explore it, you just go along it. After successful Kotova špica there and back, you stray onto the normal path!? I think you were looking at the phone, not the path. 
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| rokeg31. 08. 2024 18:11:33 |
I'm also surprised I strayed onto the "normal" path.  Is it possible that something got washed away?
I looked at the phone only after a 15-minute search for the continuation; navigation showed I was on the path and should traverse a couple more meters, which is visible on the 37th photo, and then go up into the smooth wall. Even a piton is visible, indicating I should go into the deep gully. Everything seemed quite a bit harder than the whole "path" the day before.
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| Po Hodnik31. 08. 2024 19:17:52 |
How long does it take from Kotovo sedlo to the path that connects to the path from Koritnica?
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| redbull31. 08. 2024 21:43:28 |
There really aren't many posts anymore, the reason is in many things.
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