List of forums / Slovenia / Alpine ascents / Kramar Route in Storžič, IV/I-II M 615m

Kramar Route in Storžič, IV/I-II M 615m

sebo3069. 06. 2020 16:21:31

This is really a dangerous practice. Especially the belay on pic 11, given there's no nut even in the center of the belay, the worst could happen on a fall. Always make belay on two fixed points and don't do a movable belay like on pic 11, but fixed (that means don't put the loop just on half but put it on half by making a figure-eight or figure-six knot!!) The clove hitch is fine and safe, but still much more user-friendly to belay with reverso - even has auto-block function.

(+8)

pingvini.slo59. 06. 2020 17:12:02

Otherwise nice ascent. But I don't understand why do such exposed ascents in such bad weather, especially if (as the predecessor pointed out) you don't know how to belay, set belays, etc? Things can go wrong fast in mountains (Red Bull can confirm), so it's good to know basic maneuvers and stick to them consistently.

North faces will all wait until summer....and also for the next winter season, when they'll be covered in proper snow, not rot. Spring is here and south faces offer huge possibilities for new challenges.

(+8)

SamoK9. 06. 2020 17:23:32

To various critics:
Those recommendations you quote are of course correct and fine, but I guarantee that more or less everyone who's climbed more than via ferrata has improvised something sometime. Don't know why blame obviously capable youth for such things - unless it's the old Slovenian passion for lecturing.

(+5)

UB779. 06. 2020 17:39:21

Ah no, stop lecturing. If Dejan survived fall from Triglav, he'll survive from Stožec too! zavijanje z očmi

(+12)

Lukito9. 06. 2020 17:44:19

Samo, don't know if anyone here really blames youth (and how far does youth go, I'm not a teen anymore and know someone on pics is older than me - hats off.). It's about a well-meaning warning that belaying isn't as it should be per recommendations.

Climber on pics and clips I've seen wouldn't fall more meters, but the point is that belays, especially if on pics, can be set properly. Mountaineering is booming and lots of people copy others without proper knowledge.

We've all messed up sometime, but then didn't exactly post it velik nasmeh

I haven't set belays for a long time and was later warned that like on pic 11 it's not OK anymore and now knots are made so both points are equally loaded (probably last 10 yrs).

(+3)

LDC9. 06. 2020 18:50:30

Ojoj, you lecture but don't know how a movable belay looks, better not to comment next time. I assume he made the belay around a rock horn or big block, it can also be done if there's a good tree, which is totally correct. And no, THIS ISN'T a movable center. What is wrong, you don't write. Except for the nut, you got it right. Instead of a set there should be a sling with a nut, then the clove hitch is a totally legit knot especially for something short to save. Mistakes though I don't see well, that the belayer is not tied to the rope and clipped with a sling to the belay center, even bigger mistake that he's 3m away from the belay?? How would he e.g. do a clove hitch arrest in case of a fall?
And I don't know what's the point in pushing up this scree and rubble, this is a "winter route".

(+13)

jax9. 06. 2020 23:19:01

I haven't set belays for a long time and they later warned me that like on pic 11 it's not OK anymore and now they do knots so both points are equally loaded (probably last 10 yrs).

Honestly, I'm skeptical of all safety recommendations that change every few years. The thing can't be safe for a few years and then not anymore. And constant rule changing is the best way that in the end nobody knows anything anymore.
Movable belay is a simple and totally solid way to make a belay in dry rock. If really in very bad rock where no reliable point can be found, then ... well there the best rule is still simply don't fall.

(+7)

sebo30610. 06. 2020 12:01:45

Movable belay is totally safe but the problem arises from force, if on fall one placed pro fails then consequently the force is bigger, because the loop stretches and thus the chance of the other pro pulling out is bigger. That's the thing. If the thing is done around a tree or similar (svedri) then anyway it's the same.

(+5)

Todi24. 04. 2021 17:19:12

Yesterday evening I get an SMS, what if we go in, ... it would be a shame. If we didn't use such nice weather, and still good conditions in Kramarjeva.
I quickly prepare everything for the morning and since there are no more restrictions, quickly at 4:00 from LJ. We drive almost to the hut, well at 930m to the sign 20 min Dom pod Storžičem, here we start. Descent via Fifth Gully and past memorial park. At the end still refreshment in warm sun at the hut, ...