Kredarica - Triglav... Winter route
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| _ratS18. 12. 2022 11:09:40 |
Kredarica - Triglav.
Has anyone tried the route drawn on the attached picture?
How is it compared to the standard route via Mali Triglav?
(talking about winter conditions)
Thanks lp
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| turbo18. 12. 2022 11:29:51 |
Nearby there is the alpine route Müller's chimney, which these snow gullies are not. More about the "chimney" here: https://www.gore-ljudje.si/s-triglava-1
Approximately along this route that you drew, I climbed Triglav a long time ago and descended it too. In excellent conditions, the ascent and descent were quite easy, the steepest parts were around 50 degrees, of course I did the ascent with two tools. The snow was just right, so it was just pick pick up and down, following the holes from the front crampon teeth and some larger holes made by the tool picks. I can't compare with the normal approach because I didn't do it, but I know that if Triglav sees me again in winter or winter conditions, I'll choose these gullies again if conditions allow.
P.S.
With a colleague we planned to go to Triglav the normal way, but a chat with Ažman (first Slovene over the magic 8000m line, together with Matija Maležič) convinced me it's worth trying from the glacier up to the saddle and from there right to the top. I told Ažman I'm not an alpinist, told him about some experiences (Butinarjeva, Skrita-Robičje, gullies in Begunjščica and Vrtače, etc.) and he said conditions are excellent and experiences should suffice, of course with warning to go slowly and smart. I'm still grateful to him for the tip and encouragement, the memory of my first and so far only winter Triglav is wonderful, weather and conditions were phenomenal 
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| _ratS18. 12. 2022 13:31:53 |
Thanks for the reply turbo!
Question: were you alone or roped with someone? Did you belay with rope and make anchors, or just go for it?
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| turbo18. 12. 2022 13:41:05 |
We were three. No belaying, no rope team, just two tools and nice pick pick to the top and back. They ski down these gullies, those who master it, when conditions are 
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| _ratS18. 12. 2022 14:57:00 |
PS:
Is there any material where these routes on Triglav are shown, described, and named.
I'm not talking about the north face (Slovenian, German, Bavarian etc.).. I'm talking about routes above the north face, to the top of Triglav (e.g. Muller chimney)
PPS
based on your description of this route (in the picture) I assume it's technically easier than the winter Slovenian in the north face?
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| denis291126. 12. 2022 19:24:49 |
Hi guys, turbo and _ratS! Nice to see someone also talking about this "Müller's chimney" route, which I've been planning to climb for a few months.
By the way, turbo, how iced up was the route at your ascent? The hardest part looks like that first jump at the bottom to me, and I think if not enough iced, it can be tricky?
Thanks for reply! 
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| redbull26. 12. 2022 21:12:14 |
Guys, currently everything can be climbed. You could already scout it in summer when rock is dry, to see the line a bit. Bojan said it nicely, but still don't take this route as some walk, as it reads from your sentences/questions
Good luck
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| _ratS27. 12. 2022 23:09:55 |
No worries. We won't dress as Santa Clauses
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