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| matic424. 07. 2017 09:49:08 |
From upper Mangart lake I go to Zacchi hut, there turn right onto path 513. Initially slightly downhill on road, then marked path turns left (signpost). A bit further turn left onto trodden path (old markings, no signpost). First through sparse forest, then across gully and right diagonally up across extensive scree between Strug and Vevnica. Below Vevnica walls first up scree, then snowfield. At top traverse across snowfield to left to wall entrance. Final pitch is wide, ice axe recommended. Along thick chain I climb to T13 sign. When lots of snow this is start. Lower part partly well secured, then less and less. Besides markings bolts for chains help, but gotta take time to find path. See there's not much traffic here. Higher up steep unsecured slab, then exposed traverse left, set up a couple of cairns and last part through jumbled rocks to col between Zadnja Ponca and Strug. Path mostly unsecured, quite exposed, climbing difficulty doesn't exceed II grade (mostly I). Bolts for chains show once wire was strung almost continuously from below to col. These bolts now show path well, useless for progressing. To Strug top almost walk. To col took four hours. Descended same path. When I stepped on scree I sighed in relief. Wild and beautiful!
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| matic425. 07. 2017 18:31:10 |
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| janezs7320. 08. 2023 19:24:27 |
A bit late, but probably still useful for someone:
Last weekend Friday after work from Belopeška lakes via (renovated last Oct Kugy) ferrata to Strug, then to Vevnica, down to Busetini bivouac above Zagače. There I was lucky - got last free bed. Morning with new acquaintance (from bivouac), Frenchman, to Mali Koritniški Mangart and along ridge to Mangart and down past Nogara bivouac to Belopeška.
Kugy ferrata nicely renovated, but sadly (obviously) poorly done, as already over half anchor bolts twisted, some even broken (after less than year). Entrance really misses marking. I kept looking left from scree and later snowfield, saw chains only almost at end of snowfield gully. Since no go back (anyway entrance quite free-style - "find yourself"), climbed into final gully (last week >10m deep at top, but luckily only 2m in middle of snowfield) and up it to crest then out on slabs to ferrata (bottom somewhere even III grade).
Further path easy, upper part completely changed course from old.
Ridge to Vevnica story of its own. Of course airy, partly crumbly, nice passages. Many red dots help... Key parts of ascent from last col to Vevnica still holding. Who knows how long they'll resist nature...
Descent to bivouac barely shade better than ascent from Strug direction.
Even ascent to Mali Koritniški Mangart much better condition than upper paths around Vevnica. Once on marked path to Mangart, esp. on grass see how little visited this beauty is.
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| 2061alessio21. 08. 2023 11:57:27 |
Hi janesz73, do you have some pics where the twisted and broken bolts are better visible? It's because I'd show them to our responsible chief for ferratas and army unit because they did the job there as I always said: repair old route to keep it alpinistic but not set new ferrata because this happens what you saw (because I exactly said the truth what would happen they attacked me like an enemy at official meeting in April  ), please contact me on "private messages", thanks in advance.
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| MANGRT22. 08. 2023 19:22:15 |
Yes, sadly this new steel installation looks. Or leave it unequipped, some pics of failures.
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| miri22. 08. 2023 20:03:35 |
Let them come for practice to our markers.
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| 2061alessio23. 08. 2023 07:09:10 |
thanks for pics Bruno, fully agree with you.
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| tjaza3. 09. 2023 12:19:30 |
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| Klemen243. 09. 2023 18:30:40 |
How is the path between Srednja and Visoka Ponca, given that PZS shows this part is closed due to a landslide? Can you still get past safely? I was at Srednja Ponca yesterday and didn't continue due to the landslide.
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| bos3. 09. 2023 20:01:04 |
I didn't know; there was also no notice at the Visoka Ponca junction or Zacchi hut, where it would be most logical.
I wonder which landslide is meant: after the "fence" on my pic 33, an ascent follows and then you get back to the ridge, where you shouldn't go to the top because part of the ridge was washed away on the other side—be careful there.
I saw at the Zacchi hut that the ferrata to Visoka Ponca is closed, though there was no notice at the ferrata junction and I saw quite a few on the ferrata.
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| črow24. 08. 2024 13:50:25 |
Yesterday from Zacchi hut to Velika Ponca, along the ridge to Strug and descent via Kugy to the valley. Ferrata to Velika Ponca without issues, belays in excellent condition. Descent from the top to the fence (pic 33, previous posts) could really be better secured. We follow the path until it drops toward Tamar. Then ridge traverse, where you need to be careful not to stray. Between Zadnja Ponca and Strug, ferrata sign. We followed the marks until we met the excellently maintained new ferrata. There we noticed that it probably leads to the top of Strug, but via a new route. At the top of Strug we weren't paying attention and didn't notice it, or it's not finished yet? To the snowfield all OK. The snowfield and final gully currently no problems.
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| 2061alessio26. 08. 2024 21:15:20 |
The path's last third is in poor condition; need to look around a bit where the red dots are placed; the route that led to the ferrata start is no more; need to go a bit on your own diagonally left on unstable scree; put on gear on the path before the traverse because near the rock and glacier remains stones are constantly falling.
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| lynx10. 08. 2025 15:58:05 |
Currently, winter gear is still needed, the snowfield hugs the wall much deeper than in Alessio's pics, the snow is concrete. If you're first, you can additionally belay a bit with one rope, but not fixed on both sides, more for show. And it's unlikely you'll be able to throw it back well for next groups.
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