Kukova Špica SE Couloir IV-III, 400m
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| JusAvgustin13. 11. 2011 17:53:45 |
I've been eyeing it for a long time, that gully that's so nicely visible from the highway. Gully left of Kuk's screes and right of Gulc, that perfect line winding to the KŠ summit in full exposure. Today we attacked it. Matej had commitments so I asked on the local "ferajn" and got a partner right away. Neither of us had been in the route before, warned about tricky orientation, how to even reach the wall, but we ignored it. Of course we missed the first try... A few lines later on that.
At 5:30 already grinding through the forest on Goričica, pace hellish, within an hour at PP. There, we should have immediately crossed into the gully on the right and ascended it, but we didn't. Instead grinding the gully with smooth jumps (II degree) all the way to the scree leading to Gulce. "This isn't right, we're too far left! OK. Climb up strongly to the right, where we hit a jump (gully). Rappel is the only way. Finally climb out of the gully via scree to ledges (II-III) and along them to the route. Yay, peg there, now we've arrived. At the route at 9am! Climb pitch by pitch, only 4 pitches to "prižnica", but they demand focus. From the route equipped traverse, which ends under scree, up it (snow) to the last part of the gully. From there the ridge is very close. And what a ridge...  I confidently claim it's TOP 3 ridge I've ever been on: sharp, serrated, loose, in short, big M! After the ridge less than an hour to KŠ top, which had 4 visitors today!
Approach without crampons and ice axe possible, not recommended, Gulce path dry except a few patches. Optimal route for optimal weather. Climbed 3 hours. Rappelled 3 pitches. Descent via normal route
Klemen&Juš (Pipija wasn't there)
SE gully is 4-pitch high gully to Prižnica then to ruined KŠ ridge, route except few pegs UNEQUIPPED, gorgeous! Last time I enjoyed so much...
yesterday!
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