| dRM26. 07. 2021 22:20:41 |
Where to start...
Expedition to such a remote peak brings quite a few different "journeys", first just getting there is a story in itself, then the expedition itself, and finally the return home.
After successful arrival at base camp (BC), days of acclimatization followed. Weather seemed delayed by a month here too, no day without precipitation. Looks like winter still lasts, new snow was a daily staple.
After a few days in BC we headed to camp 1 (C1). Here we still felt some presence of civilization. After acclimatization tour to Pik Juhin 5100m (where a day before our arrival they carried out a dead climber), we ate (as much as possible) and fell asleep.
Next day, glacier training: roped walking and mandatory rappel and ascent on rope. That day was also for rest, because at night at 4am came the hardest part so far, move from C1 to C2 at 5300m with all gear in backpack.
Glacier crossing was eventful, new snow always covered crevasses. Some fell into them, if not roped, probably wouldn't be here anymore.
Panting up to C2 was very exhausting. When my buddy and I get the tent, we quickly hide in sleeping bags, as temperature and wind are unlivable.
Here a vicious circle starts, you know you must drink, eat and go to WC, but "don't feel like it", because every "valley thing" so hard to do up here...
Despite all I survive the night (with panic attacks feeling like drowning...), morning action, off to C3 at 6100. I eat Snickers and half chocolate bar, took almost an hour... then step by step to the ridge leading to C3.
On the ridge I rest, know I'm not ok but continue. Before last "steep bit" to C3, last sense tells me "doesn't smell right", barely breathing and weather bad and will be... who carries me from C3?? Here at 5850m I stop, that's it, enough, "doesn't smell right".
Followed descent to C1, extremely exhausting and dangerous due high temps (saw people falling into crevasses).
After lucky return to C1 I think much more soberly and decide, also per weather forecasts, thing ends for me this year.
Without regrets head lower and then in two-day journey arrive home.
-->> EXPEDITION VIDEO <<--
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