Lopa (peak above Jalovška škrbina), 14. 11. 2015
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| lijaneja3. 09. 2021 13:25:25 |
On the first school day exactly at eight from Vršič I set off on this beautiful path. I started up the slope even more enthusiastically, since I learned that they haven't been charging for parking for some time.
Since Mala Mojstrovka is a bit out of the way, I skipped it and after less than an hour of ascent I'm already enjoying Velika Mojstrovka. Further it goes more or less along the ridge all the way to Šit. I wanted to cheat a bit on the descent, because without alpine climbing the detour is veeery long. Of course my carelessness soon punished me, as good 50m above the scree there's just vertical smooth rock. 200m back in good double time, more on details, took me quite some time and strength. I felt that on the long, steep, loose scree before reaching the foot of Lopa. At the top I had the longest stop; people, except on V. Mojstrovka and Jalovec, I didn't see.
About the descent to Dnina and return to Vršič I won't [talk], as I experienced a real epic and some would laugh at me, others pity me, others even envy me.
Due to nice sunny weather without wind and traversing plenty of peaks I took too many photos, and I ask for leniency in criticism.
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| ločanka3. 09. 2021 15:55:09 |
If I read Jovan's description too, it's a big achievement. But I'm still interested in that part of your route (yellow markers) back to Vršič or if there's any description of that path at all or from hikers. I haven't come across it yet. Thanks in advance!
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| geppo3. 09. 2021 16:16:42 |
Now you've "clarified" this end a bit for me, because it's not very familiar to me!
best regards
We had the bivouac door open and aired it a bit. But then we carefully closed everything!
best regards
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| lijaneja3. 09. 2021 16:17:52 |
Ha ha, I wouldn't [talk] about this path that almost cost me a night under the open sky, it's drawn on all maps from Jalovška škrbina or the shelter below Špička and leads towards Vršič below Velika Dnina at altitude between 1500 and 1700 meters. The tour itself is far from an achievement, but Jovan and I differ in that he is a climber, I am a scree walker who could help himself with a rope on the descent from Šit.
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| lijaneja26. 07. 2024 12:20:35 |
Ivo said let's go, and we went. Since I'm the mountain type who likes approaches to the peak from all directions reachable to me, I didn't hesitate even though I knew scree fields would be the biggest problem. We start at a decent time, as the weather is forecasted fine. The youngsters laugh at my grumbling while walking on the nice flat road - where are the times when you could drive almost to the hut without a bad conscience. Well, my enjoyment of the tour started above the forest. Ivo forgot his poles and I give him mine, as the steep scree doesn't end, just below the glacier tongue nasty gullies have formed, and under the wall of Jalovška škrbina there was still snow in it. Luckily, summer has hollowed a passage under the compacted snow right in the direction of the crossing, otherwise crossing that snow would have been quite problematic. The fixed protections are particularly damaged in the lower part, the second peg of the first cable is even pulled out. My boys aren't bothered by this and in a flash, we're at the saddle. A bit of descent over rocks and scree and we're climbing again. If possible, we advance on solid ground, as the scree is steep even for descent. About twenty elevation meters before the saddle we turn left and use the easiest passages. The rocks are very loose and the helmet is poor consolation in case of triggering. At the top I take photos, snack and change, the two of them nothing of that, as they went up without backpacks. The weather held, only the highest peaks were in fog most of the time. From afar we see only four people, but there's a lot of beautiful alpine flowers.
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| taubi426. 07. 2024 23:51:20 |
I decided to ascend Lopa from Tamar last year after traversing all Mojstrovkas, Travnik and Šit. To descend from Šit, climb Lopa and return to Vršič is unfortunately no longer within my powers. From Planica to Tamar we needed 45 minutes, or one hour including coffee. The caretaker? or waiter asked where we were going. After the answer he just stared blankly and added that he's been here two years but no one has told him they're going to Lopa.
The path to the branch for Kotovo sedlo is quite pleasant for morning warm-up. From there the calvary begins on one of the ugliest scree fields I know. This torment lasted an hour and a half for me, for Tone at least half an hour less. He's a long-time mountain runner without extra kilos.
We arrived at the wall of Jalovška škrbina under the glacier tongue, if we hadn't dug the path onto it and off it with the ice axe I always carry. It would probably have taken quite some time.
Despite quite damaged ironmongery, after good ten minutes we reached Jalovška škrbina without problems. From here you descend about 50m over scree under Lopa to the gravel gully separating Lopa from Šit. It's easiest to climb along the rocky edge left of the scree, or at least hold onto rocks above it. (pic.25) About 30m below the saddle we branch left under the vertical, or at least very steep walls of Lopa. (pic. 48) The slope here is very crumbly, so maximum caution is needed. The absence of flying at Rafkot and me, I felt on my own skin.
Soon we found ourselves in front of the miniature gallery that Jovan had particularly pointed out in his title photo report. (pic.45) I have to admit the passage through it was much easier than expected. Probably also because I left my backpack before it. On the return the whole thing is a shade harder. Right after the gallery there's another tricky detail. That's the pot-bellied rock around which you have to go over a ten-meter drop. (pic.44) At the top of the rock you have to find two 100% holds, as without them a fall would be inevitable. Here all difficulties end. You can continue up the steep gully right under the summit ridge, where the rock is compact and clean, (pic.43) or more to the left towards the forepeak, where the terrain is somewhat gentler but more gravelly. (pic.40) At the end you have to climb another 10m of somewhat exposed step (pic.39) and we're at the top. (pic.30)
By my layman's assessment the ascent nowhere exceeds a good second grade. Caution is still mandatory.
For the return to the hut in Tamar and beer, we needed good three hours of not very comfortable walking.
If I go in the direction of the glacier again, I would first climb to Kotovo sedlo and from there down towards it.
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| redbull27. 07. 2024 01:39:21 |
Great guys, it's the cat ledge at 44, at least I think I'm right.
Good luck
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| taubi427. 07. 2024 12:57:40 |
Exactly. That's what Jovan called it.
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