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Mali Razor 2191

lijaneja16. 09. 2016 19:44:43

My computer was in for repair, so I'm only describing Tuesday's adventure today. I'm a bit afraid I won't know how to upload pictures because everything has changed.
In the morning, I park at Vršič and I'm already twice positively surprised before the hike starts. No parking fees, tea at Tičar is just 1.30€.
The temperature for walking was perfect, no wind either. I was a bit worried about fog, but the concern was completely unnecessary. Via the lower path, where I've never been, I reach the junction: left Prisank, right Razor, me straight on. I tackled it at the western part of the base, bypassed it via the southern ridge and too soon tried the vertical. Good I quit in time as it got more demanding and crumbly. So I slowly descend to safety and continue on the ridge with a bypass, where an easy access appears on the eastern part. Descent from the peak along the ascent route, return to Vršič via Zadnje okno and visit to Turn, which I don't understand how Tuma named it that way since it looks more like a molehill.
On the return from Vršič, I visited Tonkina koča, to which I'll return.

(+6)

lijaneja27. 09. 2016 16:24:06

Promise made, promise kept; the computer (I hope) is finally tuned, so I'm attaching a few more pics from the 13th this month. Now I figured out where Tuma got such a mighty name for "Turn". Obviously, he viewed it from Goličica, from where it really looks like a real mountain.

From Srebrnjaki to Mali Ozebnik 2320 from Sovna glava 1750.

Velika and Mala Mojstrovka, and Šitna glava.

Mali Ozebnik, Špiček 2192 (shelter below it) and Vrh Zelenic 2278.

Prevčev stolp, Kanceljni, Germlajt and Goličica

Planja. From Utrjeni stolp only the spur is visible.

Among the spruces (the bark beetle hasn't reached here yet) is Mali Razor, the right spur is Turn pod Razorjem 2394

Mlinarica with the connecting ridge Prisank - Razor.

Prevčev stolp, Kanceljni and Goličica from Mali Razor

Vrh nad Rudo, Frdamane police, Špik, Mala and Velika Martuljška Ponca

Bavški Grintavec and Šmihelovec, in front Trentski Pelc and Plešivec

Dovški Gamsovec and Gubno, in front (shaded) point 2305

Girl just after descent from Razor to the scree

Slovenian symbol. In front summit MR, viewpoints of previous pictures.

Špik, before it Lipnica, from the path to the last window.

From here it is no longer so imposing. It is located down left, right below the unnamed flat peak 2305

Turn 2048 (Prisank's). Where did Tuma get its name from?

On Turn. There are really (at least) three bell-towers

Already known ridge, but here the Great Kanceljnov Tower is already visible too.

And Turn from the other side. Razor behind.

(+8)

ločanka27. 09. 2016 16:58:03

lijaneja, your pictures are very informative

(+2)

dprapr27. 09. 2016 17:45:31

You processed that well visually.
Picture 6 clearly shows that approach from Mlinarica we talked about.

(+3)

lijaneja27. 09. 2016 18:00:48

Thanks, @ločanka, I'm trying, just the tech is messing with me a bit.... Hi, Drago! The descent from Goličica isn't far either.

(+2)

Hammond26. 07. 2022 18:45:08

@lijaneja: did I understand correctly from the description that you first tackled the ascent along the grassy tongue, which at the end brings you left of the summit (viewed from the Prisank-Razor junction) to the notch, then climbed to the top on the karst side? While the first part of the ascent looks quite logical, the second seems much more complicated or not so easy to me.

lijaneja26. 07. 2022 20:24:20

By my humble memory, the line went roughly like this (yellow), but first I tried the blue and was glad to return those few meters.

My (approximate) approach to Mali Razor.

(+3)

Hammond26. 07. 2022 21:08:50

Since the wall from below along your ridge (I couldn't tell from the description which one you mean, as there's another one from the left, both ending in the steep summit wall) didn't look (logically) passable, I tackled the access completely on the left and then behind on the karst side up some unpleasant gully. Now it's clear to me that such an approach can't match the word "easy" - I advise against it without a rope or at all, if yours is more elegant. Not the only one if you set the upper limit somewhere at III+ (very fiddly, crumbly, unpleasantly jammed and exposed steepness with intermediate jumps), which just below the summit ends with exposed and jammed slabs to the right. No words wasted on descent along that line.

Across the grassy tongue to the notch on the left.

Since I thought the right ledge ends blindly, I went left here to the Krn side. Not the best decision.

I assume roughly along this line (image source: Primorske stene, Peter Podgornik)

(+1)

lijaneja26. 07. 2022 21:56:10

Yes, you went against it and on tougher terrain. My route didn't exceed II even in the upper part.
Of course, every eye has its painter. mežikanje

(+1)

Hammond26. 07. 2022 22:19:32

Then it is better than mine. mežikanje

They do. Sometimes they pick hidden nice ones, other times obvious less nice passages. velik nasmeh

Many thanks for the original post and response.

(+2)

mdenac14. 08. 2022 20:45:44

Reading this debate last week spurred me to climb Mali Razor today after the Prisank tour. Thanks to both for useful info, especially @lijaneja for the upper pic with the drawn route. With its help, I reached the top +- without trouble; only on the ridge did I search a bit where to bypass that double spike. Below, some pics from the ascent.

Just below the wall, the ledges are very hard to distinguish

Entry to the lower one, a sort of moderate gully

Upper ledge, completely trampled by ibex. At two spots they obviously sunbathe even in the rain.

Ledge on the right side, along which I bypassed two smooth rocky pinnacles on the ridge.

(+5)

Hammond14. 08. 2022 21:01:02

Nice, mdenac. Lijaneja's markup really helps a lot, but if anyone by chance ends up on the north side, there are enough red flags in my description above. mežikanje

(+3)

Heavy_bull16. 07. 2023 17:51:51

Today (16.7.2023) in nice conditions on Mali Razor. A bit of additional description and route pics in the attached photos from me too, in addition to what was already published by the predecessors.