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| Trobec15. 08. 2026 14:04:05 |
Last extended weekend (Thu-Sun) we went with PD Sežana to the Dolomites. This year the weather was more favorable than last year  The royal stage was on Saturday on Marmolada.
First, the path from Fedaia via ferrata is very different than 6 years ago. We crossed the glacier up approximately where the marked and drawn path is, but it wasn't the best option. Crampons were mandatory. On the way back we went (like others) right along the wall, viewed from below. On this variant you go without crampons, less struggling. On one rock jump there is a "very improvised" rope, which helps, especially down. The rock is quite smooth due to water and ice.
The entry itself into the via ferrata (newly equipped), the lower 4-5m, is quite a bit harder than anything else ahead. And it's not at all B/C, as is otherwise the rating of the via ferrata. Overhanging, pitons quite apart, you can't reach the cable at all if you don't have long arms. Most clip onto the pitons. And yes, one of ours would probably have stayed below if I hadn't had rope with me. Nowhere else did she have problems then.
The glacier is of course in a miserable state, the lake level is very low.
https://trobec.blogspot.com/2026/08/dolomiti-s-pd-sezana-avgust-2026.html
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| Tomco15. 08. 2026 20:15:15 |
Trobec, excellent post and pictures.
Thanks for the description. I didn't know that this "harder" via ferrata is so demanding. I'm not sure if I can take my better half along this path.. :/
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| mirank15. 08. 2026 21:43:33 |
Congratulations on the successfully completed tours, the view of the state under Marmolada is saddening. Interesting, such a preserved frame with cartridges for a Mannlicher rifle is really a true rarity after so many years.
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| Trobec16. 08. 2026 13:29:38 |
HVala 
Only the initial part of the via ferrata is harder, afterwards it's nicely laid out. Another option is (though somewhat longer) from Contrin, at the notch it joins the via ferrata and there's no need to cross the collapsing glacier and the difficult initial part of the via ferrata.
I was also surprised by the "untouched" condition of the cartridges. Quite remarkable that they were frozen somewhere in the glacier, without running water and oxygen. Now they've peeked out.
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| Tomco18. 08. 2026 17:46:06 |
Trobec, what is the condition of the "via normale" across the glacier, that you avoided it? Has it become too dangerous over the summer, especially for guiding? Is a rope team recommended?
I don't know much about Marmolada, but I know that when I go, I would like a loop. Also, if someone can tell, which route is in this case more recommended for up and which for down?
Thanks in advance for the information.
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| Trobec18. 08. 2026 20:01:24 |
Which one is the "via normale" is a bit confusing, some sources mark this one we took, others the direct one across the glacier from Pian Fiacconi.
That direct one is strongly discouraged in current conditions. I caught somewhere (I won't put my hand in the fire for the accuracy of the info) that apparently even the GVji don't lead it now, because it's too dangerous.
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| Tomco18. 08. 2026 21:05:28 |
Yes, that's exactly what I meant, Pian Dei Fiacconi and straight across the glacier.
Through an acquaintance I know that about 10 days ago some people did a loop. They went up across the glacier and down via the ferrata, I don't know other details. I only know that they are very young, which at the same time can mean that they might assess the conditions a bit differently.
Maybe someone can recommend a reliable local source of information regarding the current conditions for the ascent?
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| Trobec19. 08. 2026 08:15:44 |
It's possible that someone went that way; we didn't see anyone on that variant. One GV we met was leading a client from Contrin and descending the via ferrata to Fedaia.
But our colleague the evening before the tour delved quite a bit into conditions on various foreign/Italian forums and, as far as she understood, they strongly advised against this variant everywhere. Well, anyway it wasn't in the plan
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| mirank19. 08. 2026 13:53:54 |
The best advice I can give you is to go in winter or spring
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