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Monte Pelmo (3168)

IgorZlodej4. 10. 2011 20:43:50

We slept well overnight in the bivouac and headed towards Pelmo in the morning still in the dark. Under the wall there was already enough daylight that we turned off the lights and scrambled into the wall, soon finding ourselves on the famous ledge that crosses the entire wall to the large cirque. No particular difficulties, we even think guidebook authors exaggerate the difficulties quite a bit, also seen in various descriptions. Inside everything from bolts, pitons, slings, carabiners, ropes. Could say nothing's missing. Still, the ledge is extremely exposed, rocks polished in places like on our Triglav, so great caution needed, novices won't manage without belaying. We didn't belay, so we were across very quickly. Then we ditched extra gear and did a somewhat monotonous ascent over vast scree slopes, which does have one good feature, you can calmly look around and there's loads to see. After crossing the plateau under the summit section, some really easy climbing to the top followed and after 3.5 hours we were on top. Flawless beautiful day, completely calm atmosphere, warm and views as far as the eye can see. We sat up there quite a while, then descended quickly, met two ascending, crossed the ledge in the opposite direction, down to the hut where we packed the bivouac and got our stuff to the car and past the new Gianpietro Talamini hut in Vodo di Cadore and via Sappada home.

Monte Pelmo (3168) the morning glow is the most beautiful thing you can experience in the mountains, left the mighty Antelao

Monte Pelmo (3168) and then the sun rose

Monte Pelmo (3168) some easier, others harder passable crossings

Monte Pelmo (3168) scree fields are really magnificently long

Monte Pelmo (3168) now the summit is already visible

Monte Pelmo (3168) something small is going over the snow, but sometimes a huge glacier ruled here

Monte Pelmo (3168) Dolomites princess Civetta

Monte Pelmo (3168) deep views of the western and northern walls, recently a great tragedy unfolded there behind

Monte Pelmo (3168) such a view is worth every drop of sweat

Monte Pelmo (3168) forest-covered hill bottom right Monte Pena

Monte Pelmo (3168) some beautiful autumn flowers that will soon die, like all good things die

Monte Pelmo (3168) leaving the Venezia hut

Monte Pelmo (3168) view of the visited mountain

(+3)

panda4. 10. 2011 20:54:16

Ignoramuses, others knowledgeable.........difficult, for some nothing difficult....., some exaggerate, for others a piece of cake........oh joj, joj....pure subjectivism at its peak. eek

(+2)

Kozorog4. 10. 2011 21:47:08

Great! Congratulations! The photos are nice too... Really wonderful places that must be experienced!

TincaPRR4. 10. 2011 22:11:56

Wonderful photos... Monte Pelmo, which we admire every year at Civette ski resorts, is really impressive nasmeh

Bojan_A4. 10. 2011 22:13:14

Another great description! Bravo! nasmeh

Jany5. 10. 2011 08:20:56

This year I visited the Dolomites for the first time, more for a taste. Definitely plan to return and do something more serious than a walk around the Three Peaks, which by the way is really wonderful. Maybe I'll tackle this mighty mountain now that you've presented it so nicely.
Your pics have already turned out zo5 very well, so I don't know which one I'd put first.
Wonderful, thanks!

(+1)

knap422720. 07. 2012 16:16:46

Attaching some more photos from this year. The situation hasn't changed compared to Igor's description, there's still a fixed rope at the ''cat passage'', but I was very surprised by the visit to this mountain. We were at the top on Wednesday, on the way back we met nine others, the day before there were 17 entries in the book. Slept at Rifugio Venezia, next day went to Rifugio San Marco and on to Sorapiss.
Best, Matej

Goal of the next day, main Pelmo summit hiding in the background.

For now we are still in the shadow of Antela.

Most difficult part of the ledge, exposure greater than it appears

The cairn shows the path to the saddle and then right to the summit.

Pelmo summit, to the right of the cross Sorapiss group, goal of the next day.

Venezzia hut, Sorapiss in the background.

(+4)

Jovan Cukut8. 08. 2015 17:08:34

More details in photos and comments on the second and much nicer ascent of the prince of the Dolomites, 3168m high Pelmo.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/PelmoDolomiti06082015

(+7)

Trobec4. 09. 2017 22:33:31

This one is actually from the previous weekend... conditions have probably changed a lot in the last days...

The last weekend in August has been reserved for Dolomites for years. This time even 3-day. On Friday first to Passo Giau, where we "settled" a 2-year old score - Averau. Back then short day took it from us (or more precisely, traffic jams in Italy). Shortly before entering the via ferrata weather deteriorated and it seemed this time also not destined. Well, after 10 min showers lost strength and we headed into somewhat slippery and worn rock. Yeah, up here everything slips really. Some luckily realize already on the first belay section that it's not for them...
After descent back to Passo Giau followed bus transfer to Zoldo Alto and ascent to Venetian hut, where we slept.
Next morning long awaited Pelmo. After about 20min path bites into face climbing on rock, then follows Ball ledge. Exceptionally nice part, but not for everyone. At hardest spots there are short fixed rope sections for help (or self-belay, which maybe not 100% reliable), total maybe 20m. Then easy path to summit (except one detail just below top). Summit very panoramic. And beer was worth carrying to top mežikanje

Descent same way, as no other path to top (except for alpinists). Last day "walk" (compared to views from previous day almost flat) to 2183m Monte Rite, where in former bunker now Messner museum resides, which probably attracts visitors mainly due to famous owner. The museum itself, hand on heart, doesn't offer anything overly interesting.

https://www.facebook.com/matej.trobec.5/media_set?set=a.10155031454387309&type=3&pnref=story

(+5)

mirank11. 06. 2019 22:41:13

Yesterday on "recon" for summer in these parts;
we took it only to Venezia hut. Unfortunately it lost its roof in a storm end of October and now they're repairing it but assured it will be open in July. Snow is being removed quickly, as we saw bellflowers along the path all the way from Palafavera up.

(+3)

VanSims7. 09. 2020 10:45:17

The shortest approach to Rifugio Venezia is from Malga Ciauta (1-1:15 h) reachable from Vodo di Cadore.

Ball's ledge is not a test of any special techniques and knowledge, but more of our courage and psyche. Just need experience with exposed paths, mental strength and caution as the ledge is very exposed and full of scree. Rope still there at the 'cat passage'.

voluhar7. 09. 2021 19:08:03

https://tomazsarc.blogspot.com/2021/08/pelmo-in-marmolada-12-1582021.html

(+1)

mirank11. 07. 2022 14:48:36

We parked a bit above the helipad above Zoppe village. Along the wide path in less than 1.5 hours we arrived at the hut just before evening. A hearty dinner and two big beers do not exactly help with "sleeping". Nevertheless, in the morning we set off full of positive energy into a nice day before sunrise. The conditions for walking were excellent; on the ledge everything is as described many times before, and the rope at the key spot looks trustworthy too. The scree in the basin is not too annoying, as the path is fairly well-built. The easy path over the rock step is marked with cairns and has a couple of variants, as it is passable nicely almost everywhere. Here we are in the upper cirque (Vant), surrounded by the south and east ridges, which give it the shape of an armchair—from there also the name God's Throne. At the saddle between the main summit and the south ridge the view embraces Civetta, down it drops into the bottomless abyss—La fessura, which separates Pelmetto from the main summit. A bit of scrambling and a slightly annoying or exposed detail, and the summit rewards us with godlike views in all directions. Return by the same path and I must say: I am very surprised that we meet ascenders all the way zavijanje z očmi

.
Actually, it no longer surprises me that the Marmolada accident (after 12h?) sadly took so many lives.
Definitely one of the best hikes when everything clicked—from weather, company, and the nature around, not to mention such an impressive mountain nasmeh

another old acquaintance - buon giorno or boserna

Sorapis, torre dei sabioni, Cima bel pra, c scooter, Antelao

Il Vant between Spallo est and Spallo sud

Cristallo and Sorapis, behind Dreischusterspitze

right is narrow, left is easier but hard and exposed

it's not true but it is; we were up there

nasvidenje or arrivederci as Oliver Hardy would say

(+17)

pohodnik33314. 09. 2023 21:28:55

Trip 11.9.2023.

Right upon arriving from the scree to the start of the climbing part, I was greeted with a welcome. A stone up to 10 cm fell on my shoulder muscle without any warning or prior sound. Soon another batch of stones followed. I wondered who was practicing penalty kicks in the wall and kicking stones. It turned out to be a woman without a helmet rushing down, and two more in that group. I politely mentioned that I got a large projectile to the shoulder, that next time they should be a bit more careful or at least warn. The response was indifferent; it doesn't hurt them. Luckily the stone didn't fall from great height, otherwise it would have been worse than a sore muscle for a couple of days.

The continuation was more pleasant than the start.

After the initial slight climbing section, the ledges follow. Personally, compared to the path over Rizo (Kanjavčev ledges): This path is technically at least 1/2 to 1 grade more demanding, but Kanjavčev ledges are longer.

Kanjavčev ledges are less exposed, the path more fluid, you often have some 1 m safety margin, here not. Sometimes you need to climb slightly lower on the ledge, bend down, you can't always stand upright... It is good to use various climbing holds in the wall to make everything safer. If there used to be a rope sometimes on 1 section, now it is on 3 sections. But don't rely on it too much, as the predecessor already said.

Almost no orientation slings, tons of cairns, on descent perhaps look a bit more carefully at 2 spots where to go.

Nice mountain.

Just below the summit is a more difficult section. I went along the left side of the feature, more exposed but good rock.

(+10)

zokipoki15. 09. 2023 07:02:26

Unpleasant experience... good luck!

(+3)

lino15. 09. 2023 20:00:05

Good thing you kept your cool and didn't demonstrate penalty kicks in the wall kicking stones yourself. They deserved a bit of adrenaline fear. nasmeh

funnyboy2. 08. 2024 19:07:24

Another nice ascent on a Dolomites three-thousander nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.com/2024/08/monte-pelmo-3168-m-2772024.html

(+2)

ločanka2. 08. 2024 19:53:29

Beautiful mountain, views everywhere nasmeh

(+1)

funnyboy2. 08. 2024 20:34:03

True,

the shape is (at least to me) attractive and the ascent was quite interesting too.

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Monte Pelmo (3168)