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North Face of Košuta

JusAvgustin5. 03. 2011 17:34:29

Today Iztok and I set out to climb the Prontar Route in the south face of Košuta... We traversed under the whole wall to check the conditions for ascent. Not a single route was climbable, because there was powder in the gullies and entry pitches completely wet. After a short deliberation we decided to climb the Austrian Gully, but that wasn't doable either. Final decision (which definitely wasn't bad, as the route is pretty "steep") was the climbing path to the 5th summit from Hajnževo sedlo... Conditions there weren't good either, but we knew that if "shit happens" we could still clip to the fixed rope nasmeh

Conditions on the climbing route to the 5th summit of Košuta: powder, slush, crust, scree and rock. We climbed it in two hours, with a deviation, and just headed up the flank to the 5th summit... You should've seen the surprised faces when they saw us breaking through the cornice for the exit to the ridge, hanging with all our "gear". Super day, shame it wasn't really steep!!!!!!!!!!! nasmeh

WARNING: climbing route seriously snowed in, advise against ascent without alpine knowledge and gear! Last pitch solid 90° (our variant), exited 20m from the top. Juš&Iztok