| redbull9. 10. 2022 19:55:20 |
North Pillar of Skuta is among the easier ones in the north wall of the Grintovci. Most would choose Jezersko as starting point, I don't agree as there's no essential difference if starting in Logarska. We started hiking a bit before half past six with heavy backpacks. We had everything with us. Hikers were attacking the Turkish Gully. We alone towards Savinja Saddle. View from Jezersko Saddle towards Skuta summit announced some snow remnants. Calmly I'd agree we don't need to go up there. That opinion fell away, as we had enough gear also for possible descent via the route. Entry is right of the glacier under Skuta. This year perhaps for the first time, entry goes over scree and not ice! At least saves some weight on crampons. Before the red dot we dump our gear. The red dots: many years ago they thought to make a protected path to Skuta. Good they abandoned that idea, thank God. We climb close to the wall on the right, as that's easiest. After this easier wide ledge we reach a steeper wall. North Pillar begins. Carefully we climb and of course every hold, step we check twice firmly. This first part of the pillar was crumbly, especially if not careful enough. We tiptoed like mice, so nothing crumbled. Dots turn right into gully and over to right side. We finished with red blobs for today. Marko&Marijana wrote nicely, when they turn right, you need to leave them their path. We head only upwards into quite nice ledge that went right. Higher it turns left then right again and here you need to climb into narrow gully. That crumbliness which was at pillar start thankfully not here. Had to pull tight upwards. On this part belay wouldn't be bad. Rock isn't bad continuing. Orange rock parts but they are on right side. That means loose, undercut but not in route or more right. Per M&M description from here onwards not too hard climbing to summit. Legends were so right! At 2350m really picnic spot and since Bojan has exactly those pics of holes on net from 2010 I really don't know where they found fours, even fives climbing in continuation. Slightly descend into gully and up it, where we see first belay station in route. Why station here unclear, given that in lower pillar part not even one bolt, which really wasn't easy. From here to top really no more difficulties, II grade climbing. Snow along left side of pillar no issues and wasn't hard. Must stick to pillar and seek easiest passages. North had no breeze, as forecast slight wind from SW. After 2h45 sandwich really hit the spot. Really we were happy, as route isn't bad. In winter probably easier, especially if snow well fills either right or left gully variant. Crowd on summit like hail, don't know if they'll shoot even afternoon movie. Descend via classic and through Turkish Gully to valley. Nice, crazy tour that always ends with coffee and a pint of beer.
Route is II 550m, but at some places surely good III, pillar start is crumbly II.
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