| PV8. 08. 2012 18:21:08 |
We started early on Sunday from Krnica. Past the hut onwards across Kriška stena (conditions: path excellently marked, ascent through the wall very nicely routed, some scree in places so helmet is pretty much obligatory, self-belaying though.... subjective thing. We didn't use it).
At the top of the wall left down towards Škrlatica to Rdeča škrbina. From there to Dolkova špica, then back the same path to the top of Kriška stena (Conditions: path well marked to the bivouac turnoff, further on fewer marks and those are quite faded. But plenty of cairns that make orientation very easy. After initial descent follows enjoyable almost flat walk to the scree, which is pretty nasty uphill, super for descent  ).
Quick hop to Križ (Conditions: walk with two ropes and a passage not for fat ones  ) and via Bovške vratica to Pogačnikov dom (PD), where we slept (Conditions: enjoyable walk).
Next day a bit longer lie-in and only mid-morning head towards Dovška vrata and from there to Stenar (Conditions: path very well marked, section to vrata across Kriški podi a walk, then short ascent on scree which is quite tolerable and final ascent on rocky but not steep summit slope. In short, nothing problematic).
Followed by descent back to Dovška vrata and from there ascent to Bovški gamsovec (Conditions: path well marked, somewhere in the middle section somewhat exposed, but for the most cautious there's rope all the way). Again descent back to vrata, from there towards PD.
Soon left the marked path and headed left towards scree under Gamsovec and Pihavec, where we joined the marked path from PD. From there up scree and then some climbing to Pihavec (Conditions: turnoff from marked path towards PD poorly visible, but about 200 m from Dovška vrata. Then path quite followable with some cairns, once on scree no problem at all. Own story is the ascent on scree to the start of climbing on Pihavec. Steep, steep, steep and loose, loose, loose...  . But you survive it...  . Follows some steep even vertical climbing, but protections and marks OK. Helmet obligatory here, as the section above first climbing pitch impossible to pass without dropping some pebble or stone. If crowded, recommended to wait below until those above progress out of that nasty part. Last part of path somewhat gritty, so caution not amiss.). We descended to scree same path.
Already earlier the previously unplanned Šplevta had caught our eye, so we descended scree straight down to the path crossing scree under Pihavec towards Šplevta. This path unmarked, as is the ascent to Šplevta summit (Conditions: path crossing scree under Pihavec visible in parts from all sides, so descent to it choosable. Climbing part of ascent though... We don't have much experience with similar variants and I was a bit scared. Plenty of holds otherwise, but some rock quickly comes loose in hand... in short... maximum caution and prudence on both ascent and descent... as slip or fall probably fatal). Descended approx same path and then walk to PD, where we slept second time.
Third day again started early towards Planja saddle, from saddle first to Razor then to Planja (Conditions: to saddle mostly over nasty sliding scree. Also not many marks, so recommend constant watch for them... true though given terrain, a step off path not big issue as path quickly found again. From saddle to Razor also quite some scree on path, but mostly not particularly steep so not too tiring. From saddle to Planja path nicely marked, needs some minor climbing, but nothing problematic).
Then from saddle towards Prisank and from Škrbina via Jubilee path to summit (Conditions: path very well marked and protected. Helmet obligatory, self-belaying "tasty" , on necessity of self-belaying I wouldn't... for me very subjective). Descended via ridge to Vršič (Conditions: very well marked ridge path, somewhat exposed in places but very well protected... helmet stay on head, self-belaying... depends on individual), from where a friendly Italian couple with camper took us to the valley where we had car parked at parking under 3rd serpentine.
After three days now somewhat tired, but still... despite not quite ideal weather second and second half of third day... super tour!!!! 
Recommend repeat if seems interesting to someone....
And some pics.
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