Pihavec from Luknja Saddle and Šplevta
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| peter211. 09. 2012 20:12:28 |
The path from Vrata valley towards Luknja saddle is renovated towards the summit. Some cables are tensioned near the rocks.
At the saddle we turn towards Bovški Gamsovec. Until recently, at the place where you have to leave the path, there was a cairn and an old signpost. Yesterday it was no longer there. Nevertheless, we can't miss the vast cirque under Pihavec. We leave the path and climb over screes to the rock jump under Pihavec. We come across a memorial plaque dedicated to Tinet Mihelič.
The plaque stands at the entrance to a narrow and steep gully. It somewhat surprised us with its difficulty. One has to climb a short but completely smooth rock slab. We found a solid hold under the rock on the left.
Probably there is another passage, but according to the description in the guidebook we stuck to the mentioned one.
Continuing towards the top of Pihavec we didn't encounter major difficulties. The terrain is steep of course, but it can be pleasantly traversed in zig-zag. Under the summit we didn't go towards Čez Kamen saddle but more to the left (west) and then to the top. Under the summit we still came across a path that comes from Kriški podi.
We also encountered chamois  lazily grazing under the summit.
The summit offered wonderful views . We just couldn't set off further.
We descended via Čez Kamen saddle on the "normal" path towards Kriški podi. Right under the summit of the saddle there is a rather annoying gully thickly filled with scree. Fortunately, there aren't many visitors to Pihavec, as falling scree is definitely a problem here  .
On the screes under Pihavec we decided to also visit Šplevta below Pihavec. In the guidebook we read that it's an easy approach, but it was far from that.
Through the scree we made our way to the ridge between Pihavec and Šplevta. Under the ridge we traversed towards Šplevta and climbed right at the foot to the top of the ridge. We tackled the summit a bit to the right, as the smooth slabs directly to the summit didn't appeal to us much. Soon we both agreed that the approach is somewhat harder than e.g. that to Morež. Fortunately it's shorter.
On the summit photos in all directions again. For the return we chose the path right along the ridge towards the saddle. The condition of the rock surprised us. Sometimes completely solid, sometimes completely loose. From the ridge we then traversed a steep gully from which we climbed a bit above the saddle itself. Descent on smooth rocks was then inevitable.
"Enough for one day", we agreed and then in front of Pogačnikov dom over beer  relived the nice tour. Return via Sovatna.
Pictures: http://www.petersfoto.si
http://www.petersfoto.si/thumbnails.php?album=datebrowse&date=2012-09-11
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| foxy11. 09. 2012 21:56:12 |
Awesome, congrats.... I was only on Križ this weekend 
This Šplevta doesn't look tough, but I believe you on your word, I won't go check it out
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| lijaneja11. 09. 2012 22:11:04 |
Foxy, you just go to Šplevtica. Comparison with Morež doesn't hold even close.
No hard feelings, Peter.
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| peter212. 09. 2012 06:45:44 |
Well, depends on who. Definitely there are sections as steep or steeper. We both agreed on that. Also the rock on return over the ridge isn't reliable. But ascent from saddle below Šplevta to summit is of course much shorter than to Morež. Summit definitely not for everyone, but for those used to scrambling on pathless terrain it will surely provide full satisfaction.
One more thing. On summit there's even metal box with logbook. If every visitor signed, then the mountain had 15 hikers visit this year.
Good luck, but wisely
http://www.petersfoto.si/thumbnails.php?album=datebrowse&date=2012-09-11
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| merkur12. 09. 2012 16:22:27 |
In slightly more difficult, exposed and partly crumbly scramble even one step off the ideal line can change the overall feel and difficulty rating sometimes. In case of Šplevta all of us who read that sentence from Mihelič's JA guide before first visit probably expected something quite easy - almost a stroll with hands in pockets. But it wasn't quite like that. I know for myself I quickly pulled hands out. I'll avoid ungrateful comparisons, but definitely agree that in the short Šplevta summit slope it's smart to firmly grab some previously checked rock or grass here and there and step solidly. Otherwise hope Peter's pics made good promo for the neglected sister who lingers beside the mightier brother.
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| taubi422. 08. 2017 23:50:51 |
Today I also visited Šplevta. I went up via Sovatno and further towards Pogačnik. I left the marked path right after descending from the unmistakable long horizontal ledge and continued at about the same altitude to the scree under Pihavec. When I reached the path leading from Pogačnik to Pihavec, I followed it up to a poorly visible track that crosses the scree towards the saddle between Pihavec and Šplevta. The track is actually well visible from afar, but when you get closer it's really poorly visible. From the saddle I first ascended easy grassy ledges on the eastern slope. Then I climbed first on smooth slabs, when those ran out on rubbly steep slopes to the top. If I had known there is some easier descent, this climbing would have been great fun, but as it was I was worried about the return all the time. Really during the return it squeezed me a bit r..... until I broke through to the smooth slabs. It's true that the holds on them are small and sparse, but 100% sure. That's why I felt much better on them, unlike Peter, than in the rubble.
Of course once you're down everything bad is forgotten.
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| Julijec11. 09. 2021 13:52:57 |
For a good morning visit to Pihavec. The path from Luknja is well described, but from the chimney there are several possible variants, all quite steep. For continuing to Bovški Gamsovec I think descent all the way to Mihelič slab is mandatory, then right along the wall over scree to the marked path and not lose too much altitude. Anyway, the current days are very nice for high mountains, long, warm enough and not too cold. Lots of visitors in Vrata still.
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