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List of forums / Slovenia / Dolomites / Punta Fanes via ferrata Tomaselli

Punta Fanes via ferrata Tomaselli

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oakley_sf21. 11. 2010 17:43:26
Well, I found a trip for next year. But since I don't know anything about this mountain and path, I'm curious if anyone has been to this mountain or nearby. Has anyone had experiences with the Dolomites? One wrote that crampons are needed (on 30.8.2010 I think), but judging by the pictures and video I saw, it's not needed because there was no trace of snow. No, if anyone has some info, please nasmeh I invite someone along too, of course someone capable of this path.
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remolog5. 07. 2012 13:16:33
Crampons and ice axe not needed in summer, nice info in the book (guide) by A. Mašer "Dolomiti,..."! Otherwise ferrata is nice, exciting, good rock, descent not that easy (Ferrata difficulty PP 3). Recommend if you have clear head and at least bit strong arms.
First gondola in morning from pass up only at 09.00, approach under 2 hours, same for ferrata, from top to car another 3. No water anywhere along, view on Tofana excellent....
approach1
middle section, 2
descent3
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matejam5. 07. 2012 15:15:16
Hi,

I confirm remolog's info that crampons and ice axe not needed in summer, but add another alternative option - if you want to start ascent before gondola starts operating, you can day before take gondola to Lagazuoi (last ride at 16.45) and sleep in hut, they are very very friendly, accommodation super, food even better. Not to mention the planned ferrata mežikanje Good luck!

Mateja
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JORDAN9. 07. 2012 09:35:43
On Saturday 07.07.2012 we were at top of Lagazuoi Piccolo 2762m and from there Punta Fanes Sud and ferrata Tomaselli completely dry.lp
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mina421. 08. 2012 14:52:51
I was there last year. Ferrata really excellent, some natural passages, some steep with old military ladders, ferrata experience necessary, but there's one spot where no way but to swing on cable (traverse under overhang no footholds - push out with feet and pull in with hands on cable...a bit crazy, but soon after start.) Snow gear really unnecessary mid summer. Descent tricky too - recommend slightly easier ferrata north side, well that one end of September freshly dusted with snow so slippery rocks mrk pogled
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modeon21. 08. 2012 21:13:31
On Punta Anna and further to Tofani di Mezzo were 10 days ago. Ice axe and crampons not needed, not even a step of snow. Ferrata very nice, some places need more arm strength, but excellently protected and for mountaineer with ferrata experience shouldn't be problem. Recommend descent with gondola depending on start. Second day we went to ferrata Tomaselli. This one somewhat harder, much more vertical, key is entry over overhanging rock bulge where only cable (as mina4 mentions). On whole ferrata 2-3 pegs, otherwise cable. Only experienced ferratarist should go on this path! In last part steep gully and smooth slab just below summit, but enough (small) holds and steps to progress nicely. Return not easy either, descent over ferrata annoying but again well protected. Definitely one of nicest still classic ferratas!
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krenjedul23. 08. 2012 08:25:07
Mr. Modeon, where did you sleep (second night)?
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anjakalan12. 09. 2012 09:10:24
Yesterday to Punta Fanes Sud via ferrata TOMASELLI, started at Falzarego pass. Excellent ferrata, few people (first on top and alone for a while), super weather,velik nasmehvelik nasmeh...

Ferrata super protected, typical Italian, no pegs, only 'cables'. Don't recommend to those with vertigo. Descent via ferrata other side, which is also not really
easy but shouldn't make big problems zavijanje z očmi.

Recommend to all experienced!!!

LP A.
Morning at Passo Falzarego1
Signposts2
above Falzarego pass3
panorama4
Fanes group5
Forcella Grande...6
Fanes group7
Entry to Tomaselli ferrata8
First traverse, supposed to be the hardest part of the ferrata9
Tomaselli ferrata10
ferrata11
Towards the summit...12
Summit Punta Fanes Sud 2980m13
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bagi25. 09. 2023 14:00:30
Tomaselli has been eluding us for some time. First year just watched it, second time ran out of time, third weather, fourth... well, fourth time everything fell into place nasmeh. Early from Falzarego pass we headed to Travenanzes pass and from there path 20B to ferrata entry under mighty tower Punta Sud di Fanes. Finally before it... ferrata Tomaselli, one of the biggest Dolomite classics, long, demanding, desired. We gear up and enter with due respect...

Our experience...

After initial familiarization with ferrata it went faster. Rock surprisingly good and not worn, cables taut. So until potbelly wall under remains of wooden ladders from WWI. Here Tomaselli first growls and shows teeth wide. Wall to cross left, no useful steps. Only cable helps, so we crossed this in one go with hands and shoe friction. No rest space here. This part by my estimate hardest, about C/D category.

Further easier though progress far from simple. Very soon another C/D pitch, then free climbing without protection. Repeats few times, some on exposed ledges. At one point even sign for left and right route which I didn't find on any map. We went right, no junction of left route noticed.

So discovering secret after secret of Tomaselli until summit part with mighty tower ahead. Here need experience, fitness and indifference to depth. Passages extremely demanding one after another. In this area at least three D pitches, some C/D too. Cable excellent everywhere, no pegs. Time no longer existed for us, only ferrata, adrenaline and pure enjoyment velik nasmeh. And so to exit which came too soon.

After visiting main summit bit aside we descended another excellent ferrata. That's Veronesi which down opposite tower side to valley. Also demanding reaching B/C. Cables help, down quickly. Surprised by route variety and ferrata length. To saddle almost 200m descent.

Followed return to morning Forcella Travenanzes, visit Rif. Lagazuoi hut and descent secured path Sentiero Kaiserjäger. Since we go to Dolomites it has seen better times. Storms obviously ravaged here too. Not many visitors so quickly down to start. In conclusion... we'll surely come back to Tomaselli nasmeh.

Start coordinates (Falzarego pass): 46.5187781N, 12.0095561E
Early, early we park at Falzarego, reason … so that there are no queues in Tomaselli1
Here we go left, towards Rif. Lagazuoi hut. Quite a bit before it we will branch off2
We go along by far the most frequented path in the Falzarego area3
The hut is diligently basking in the sunbeams, we two are still in the shade4
At Forcella Travenanzes we turn onto the path along the foot of the Pize Fanes ridge5
This is where we go …6
The path has the mark 20B. It is well visible and solidly equipped.7
Detail from the path. View towards Lagazuoi.8
The highest summit is ours … Punta Sud di Fanes.9
It leads to the north side, where most of the via ferrata runs. We have to go along this wall.10
Cesco Tomaselli, eternal classic among the Dolomite via ferratas.11
Important sign. Under these ladders there is a difficult traverse to the left.12
This photo is already a bit higher up, but the difficulties are only slightly less.13
Quick scrambling is essential for progressing without hauling on the arms.14
Our kit … classic protections, rubber gloves and carabiner for resting or taking photos.15
Still some remains of wooden ladders. I spotted such only here.16
Mighty summit tower that we will have to climb.17
One of the exposed ledges. This one is secured, but not all.18
Still the north face. This time it is incredibly warm and the shade fits perfectly :)19
A puzzle for me. Here we go right, to the left there might be positions from the first war.20
Followed by some demanding steps that are hard to photograph :)21
Another one of such passages …22
But we keep ascending continuously, more or less directly upwards.23
Unguarded ledge …24
The steel cables are renewed and mostly taut like strings.25
The photo does not show it, but this section is almost vertical.26
Exit from the shade. Here it switches to the sunny side and simultaneously the most exposed.27
D category. Very steep summit tower that undoubtedly commands respect :)28
View downwards …29
And another one …30
And another one …31
The last traverse …32
And a smile of satisfaction over the achievement and the ferrata33
Group smile, we will surely return :)34
The summit is amid giants and the panoramic view is boundless35
View to the other side too36
Ferata Veronesi. The summit can be reached from this side too. There is sufficient space for retreat37
Nor is it at all forgiving and despite the B/C rating quite demanding38
Easy descent options are extremely limited here. Everything is excellently secured39
The ferrata follows natural passages and is accordingly varied40
It often surprises too :)41
Then it becomes a little more forgiving again42
And just when you think the ferrata is over …43
Another surprise follows :)44
At this saddle the ferrata really ends and from here we return below the massif45
There is also some scree descent. Here one must watch the path's course46
Look back. We have just descended this scree field47
We are already in the Val Travenanzes valley and heading to the eponymous saddle48
From the saddle we continue further towards the hut …49
View back at Tofano di Rozes and its north face50
Forcella Lagazuoi saddle, from where the northern approach to the Tomaselli via ferrata goes51
The path to the hut is full of hikers as expected52
It's the weekend, so the Rif. Lagazuoi hut is full too53
View of Valparola Pass with military museum by the road54
Path from the hut towards Lagazuoi Piccolo summit55
It is also adapted for wheelchair users56
View back57
Towards the summit …58
This one is full of hikers and especially tourists59
We two will descend in this direction60
The path is eroded in many places and not very pleasant for hiking61
The cables are still in good condition and present on all difficult sections62
The ledges are sufficiently wide and relatively safe to walk on63
View into the valley and Sentiero Kaiserjäger path on the left side of the photo64
Most difficult passage over some rocky steps65
This bridge is some kind of attraction, but we have seen far more interesting ones66
Scree descent along a once exemplarily maintained path67
Our starting point, as usual full of cars68
GPS track of the hiked route including Lagazuoi totals 12 km and 1200 m ascent69
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saram25. 09. 2023 17:31:55
Bravo, all congratulations.
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panda26. 09. 2023 07:40:21
enjoyer nasmeh congrats mežikanje
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bagi26. 09. 2023 08:53:35
Thanks nasmeh. This year the weather was really generous and we did quite a few things that weren't planned at all.
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bbugari126. 09. 2023 21:42:42
Isn't there a branch to Val di Fanes on pic. 20?
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bagi27. 09. 2023 08:02:31
@bbugari ... we saw the branch to Val di Fanes already at the entrance, those arrows on pic 20 are sort of in the one-third of the ferrata. The Tomasselli welcome sign and entry difficulties are much lower too.
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bbugari127. 09. 2023 18:02:40
I meant the branch to Val di Fanes via Piza de Medo, marked on Tabacco map 03. Does this branch go from the top of Punta Fanes? It's not quite clear on the map.
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bagi27. 09. 2023 20:16:37
@bbugari ... apart from that branch in the one-third of the ferrata I didn't notice any other, not from the top, not anywhere else. The arrows are a completely new color, the little path to the left is poorly trodden and at least in the visible part quite horizontal. On the maps I have, it all doesn't match the terrain much nasmeh. Maybe someone else will post with clarification.
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