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| Heavy_bull31. 08. 2020 22:43:38 |
Last weekend circular variant: Vrata - bivouac IV - Dolkova špica via SE ridge - Rogljica - Rakova špica - Kucelj - bivouac IV - Vrata. Providing description for part of the route - ascent to Rakova špica from Rdeča škrbina direction and descent via normal route. After short descent from Rdeča škrbina I turned to scree slopes under the wall of Rakova špica and, on very pleasant and easy path along scree gully, crossed all the way to normal approach direction, arriving just above red gully / chute. Short ascent to saddle between Škrlatica and Rakova špica ridge and continuation along ridge to summit. On descent via red gully / chute I descended through the chimney closing the top of red gully / chute (left variant from below), which proved quite demanding and maybe better to bypass chimney on right side (from below), as predecessors described.
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| KLAN20. 10. 2020 21:07:15 |
And what about this easiest approach to Rakova Špica? I? II? I mean the very first post on this forum, page 1 top
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| lijaneja20. 10. 2020 21:33:22 |
You took a long approach. If you 'thread' well, you can turn left near the summit approach and not even smell the III. I like the descent too, because otherwise lots of gravel on rocks.
Good luck further!
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| KLAN21. 10. 2020 08:47:32 |
Thanks  . And this time I won't mess with cairns
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| taubi417. 08. 2022 12:25:28 |
Congratulations! I twice bypassed the last gully on descent on the left side, and returned into it above the last step about 20 meters higher than you two. In my opinion that's better, especially shorter variant.
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| djimuzl17. 08. 2022 14:21:49 |
Congrats! Impressive black-and-white photo (17)
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| Trobec17. 08. 2022 19:58:36 |
Thanks
Yes, probably that descent would be easier. Especially easier than the ascent route (except the slippery scree).
Good that no one else joined the tour, would ruin the color combo
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| julya9. 08. 2025 14:07:48 |
Yesterday we saw and heard a considerable rockfall in the northwest wall of Rakova špica (and of course a large dust cloud). Maybe more relevant for climbers, admin can move if judged.
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| lijaneja9. 08. 2025 14:40:42 |
Thanks for the warning, Julija! Not far away, over three decades ago a large part of Dovški Gamsovec broke off. Now there are wide cracks gaping there and it's just a matter of time when it will pour down again.
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