| Filip_Culjak26. 10. 2022 23:28:04 |
Two weeks ago, on Saturday 8.10.2022, I ascended Razor (2601 m) via the lesser-known and almost unvisited NW ridge. The NW ridge starts at Škrbina and ends at Turn pod Razorjem, from there there's still a short ascent along the connection between NW and NE ridge which is supposed to be some kind of S ridge. After joining the NE ridge, relatively easy along it to the summit of Razor. Descent via the south route towards Vršič. For the entire ridge from Škrbina to Turn pod Razorjem I took 4 hours. From Turn to the summit of Razor it's actually about an hour and a half or two, but I took 3.5 hours due to searching for passages. The only description of the route via NW ridge I found was on Marijana and Marko's blog, but they apparently avoided all the biggest ridge difficulties below, on the right side of the ridge itself.
I'll try to give the full course of the NW ridge, but I apologize for any potential mistake, as it's almost impossible to describe the exact route which climbs over endless towers, notches and occasionally over nasty narrow ridge edge. No talk of climbing good rock here, quite the opposite. The rock is constantly nasty crumbly and every hold is suspicious, so very carefully over the ridge.
From Škrbina to the first tower directly up the gully (III), or via 20-meter chimney on the right side of the first tower (IV). I chose the chimney variant, as the gully is horrifically crumbly and much more exposed. After exiting the chimney directly along the ridge (narrow, crumbly, exposed) to the next smaller towerlet in the ridge which we bypass on the left side via very crumbly (but not difficult), downward-slanting traverse. At the end of the traverse over short chimney (II) to easy terrain before the next big tower. We attack this tower via obvious 20m high dihedral (IV, one short move IV+). The dihedral at the end leads into an upward right-slanting ramp (II-III). At the end of the ramp we spot smooth slabs to the left above us (the only compact part of the route, III) over which we reach the ridge edge itself again. We cross to the left (Krn side) of the very narrow edge, where soon continuation on this side is blocked by suspicious rock that barely holds to the ridge. At this point we need to straddle the ridge and traverse to the right (Mlinarica side) of the ridge (very delicate, III+ or IV-). For a short time the ridge becomes relatively easy, but still quite narrow. The easy part ends quickly and the edge becomes unpleasantly narrow again. Very carefully over this narrow section (II-III). We still follow the edge to the next summit or towerlet (II-III), from which we need to descend into narrow and deep notch (III, very airy and delicate). From the notch a continuation opens slightly right in the form of a chimney, but it's impossible to reach the entrance of the chimney. The only possible continuation is via very delicate horizontal traverse in the open wall (IV-) towards the middle of the chimney. Surprisingly, the chimney itself is fairly easy (II-III) and brings us back to the narrow ridge edge. We follow the edge to the next notch into which we descend very carefully again. The tower or horn in front of us is overhanging and there's no other option but to bypass it via scrappy traverse on the right side. The scrappy traverse quickly brings us to easy terrain before Mali Razor. To the summit of Mali Razor we can go from the right (Mlinarica side), or from the left (Krn side). I chose the left side, which proved to be the harder variant. Via easy ledge from the left we bypass the horn before Mali Razor, then attack Mali Razor via the first chimney on the left side of the wall (III+ or IV-). After the end of the harder part of the chimney I found a sling for abseil, maybe Hammond used it after descending from Mali Razor, as in his July report he mentions very difficult access to Mali Razor. From the sling to the summit of Mali Razor there's still the easier part of the same chimney. After 15 meters we step onto Mali Razor (2191 m). This summit is supposed to be Mali Razor judging by the Rapallo border stone.
From Mali Razor we bypass the next two smaller pinnacles via narrow ledge on the left side and find ourselves again for a short time in easier world on the edge itself. When two large stone blocks block us, we bypass them via a nice little bridge on the right side and from it via broken ramp slightly descend and then ascend back to the ridge via another ramp (II). On the ridge we spot continuation over a larger ridge tower, which we attack via prominent chimney in the middle of the wall (IV). But I mustn't forget that a short, very broken descent into a small notch separates us from this ridge tower, which we climb in reverse (II-III). The chimney is about 40 m long. First 20 meters are solid IV, then it lays back (II-III) and at the end leads into short dihedral (IV-). Continuation opens in the form of obvious 15-meter chimney (II-III) from our right side which brings us to the top of this prominent ridge tower. From there via easy terrain again to the next notch slightly down. From the notch we descend about 10-15 meters down extremely broken gully towards Mlinarica, before entering vertical corner (IV-) back towards the ridge. Crossing from the gully into the corner is supposed to be the technically hardest part of the route (IV+ or even V-, but one move that's not exposed at all, something like the first move of Prevčev tower in the Goličica-Planja ridge). The corner at the top leads into easy gully. This brings us to some notch-like basin between three towers around us. From there two variants to the next notch. Marijana & Marko went left, over extremely, astronomically exposed and crumbly traverse (III+). The traverse didn't appeal to me after two attempts, and I chose the right variant, which would be equally difficult (III+ or IV-), but much less exposed and crumbly. From the notch short descent again and head into obvious gully to the left (towards the ridge). The gully is fairly easy and one can rest here for a while. The gully at the end leads into short chimney (II-III) which brings us into a kind of labyrinth among numerous ridge towers. Here we look for the easiest passages (still easy terrain) and after slaloming between towers, towerlets and horns find ourselves again on the ridge edge itself. We spot the last two larger towers in the NW ridge. From the first a relatively easy descent into the notch separates us. From the notch go slightly right and reach the ridge again via very steep 15-meter dihedral (IV). From the top of this tower follow the ridge (locally very exposed and narrow, II-III) before the last tower in Razor's NW ridge stands before us. This tower can be bypassed on the right side (Marijana & Marko), or climbed directly (me) via incredibly crumbly dihedral which should be III-IV, with one overhanging detail in the middle of the dihedral in the form of a small rock protruding from the dihedral itself, IV+ (very carefully over it as everything, really everything flies down).
After reaching the last summit or tower we finally finish with all the difficulties of Razor's NW ridge. Before us appears the mighty Turn pod Razorjem, from which a descent over unpleasant scrappy terrain separates us. We bypass Turn pod Razorjem on the left side via very crumbly but easy ledges. When Turn is about 20 meters behind us we return to the ridge into some little notch. Marijana and Marko's description wasn't too clear to me here and I lost quite some time searching for the right continuation. In the end I tackled some ramp-like scramble about 30 meters to the right, which led into some chimney (III). I didn't see logical continuation straight above after exiting the chimney. The only option turned out far to the left in the form of easy 5-meter chimney. A short descent over exposed and crumbly rock separated me from this chimney, then a long traverse (about 30 meters) to the left (very exposed, crumbly and delicate, III). Finally I was under the 5-meter, really easy chimney (II) after which I was finally out of all difficulties and found myself on easy scree which in a traversing ascent brought me to the broad area of Razor's NE ridge.
To the summit it's actually another half hour, but I needed 45 minutes as I was very tired. Razor's NE ridge shouldn't be harder than II, but I found some detail that would be III, maybe even III+, probably didn't choose the most optimal line. The harder detail was short, the rest mostly almost walking. At some places I encountered small or larger snow patches, but despite hard base, didn't need crampons or ice axe. After strenuous walking and climbing over scree I relatively quickly found myself before the very summit of Razor. Two sub-summits approached me from it, before I finally stepped, after 9 hours and 20 minutes from the start of the tour at Vršič.
On the summit I enjoyed good half hour, despite late afternoon hour, as it was incredibly nice and warm, views worth shouting about. Razor is the most beautiful mountain in Slovenia's territory for me and this was my fourth ascent.
Unfortunately no more time and after snack and drink I slowly started descending towards Vršič. Descent passed quickly all the way to the head of Mlinarica, from there it dragged, especially those nasty 200-meter ascent before we reach some shoulder from where we finally see Vršič. For the entire descent I took 2 hours 45 minutes and without banging my head, despite slow arrival of night, at 19:10 back at the car.
Before starting the long drive to Zagreb, I made a short stop at gostilna Jožica pri Gozdu Martuljku and ate pumpkin soup and grilled chanterelles 
P.S. I apologize for the poorer Slovenian. Hope you mostly understand what I wrote. If something is not clear to someone, or wants to ask something, feel free to ask any damn question, comment or suggestion.
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