Brana and NW Ridge of Planjava (25.09.21)
It was just after 5:00 when Denis and I started walking from the half-empty parking lot below Rinka. With steady walking you're at Okrešelj in no time. We checked out that wonder being built and it will really be great. All praise to the workers and donors as now there will really be a proper modernized bivouac. We've finally stepped out of that Balkan tradition. We need to slowly approach European standards. The headlamp was still "shining" on our heads, but we turned it off in the steepness towards the wall. We directed it right into Kotliška grapa. There was some fallen timber, but that's minor. Along the marked path we go left to the place where snow lasts longest in winter. Here we put on helmets and after not long thinking we bite into the climbing. Start is III, but difficulty decreases with height and rock is also easier. We exit onto the lower part of the roof. There was some breeze. The view certainly wandered to the neighboring Gospodična and its NW ridge. We don't go on tours headlong, without info such routes are unfeasible. At the saddle of course happy Iztok and his coffee that gives new impetus. We weren't in a hurry as we were almost 2h ahead of my planned time. By nine we're already standing at the popular pointed crones and looking at that nice wall. We traversed right, beaten path and right after we see up the scree gully. We didn't push the scree but nicely climbed the right side almost II+ and arrived above the jammed rock as proper. We're on the ridge and already here you see continuation along the ramp on the left above Logarska dolina. Guides surely take them too as there are quite some pegs in it. I'd say it's not a boring ramp at all, you can't get better quality rock than we did here. If attentive you see good crampon prints, so some winter visits here too. Just up, follows short descent into notch to scree. From here up the gully, nice climbing to perhaps the hardest part. Pegs are in, I'd rate III+. After climbing the chimney we reach level ground under our feet. Everything opens up, here is the only fallen cairn. According to many there are quite a few, or even guides say they lead under the main ridge right on easy terrain and later ascend back to ridge. We won't cheat, so nothing but original. We're already on the ridge which we reach left upward in a few minutes. It's really nice. You have to stick to the ridge, right away airy rock greets you but holds are so good I wouldn't give this part a three. Often you don't see continuation but when you reach top it's all nicely linked. You have to know beforehand what you're getting into. Here and there the route overhangs to Logarska side but not too demanding. Rdeči kup deep below, good job Drago you had the desire for it. Short section similar to saw but not comparable to that between Dimniki and Luknja Peč. Ridge isn't short, it's really long traverse all from crones at saddle. Real cairn appears only shortly before West summit of Planjava. Deserved handshake at top. View back shows only about 50% of whole ridge from crones, other 50 hidden behind. I dreamed of sandwich and at top with the box we enjoyed snack. Quite hard to find free spot as summit with box was nicely besieged. Didn't expect such rock and can say in KSA I haven't met such good yet. Description, good orientation, above all nice weather is condition for tour. Descent we do to scissors and down via Grlo. It was nice descent, especially for later time. Morning ascent there would probably need ice axe due to wet grass, bushes. We traverse to forest to our morning start. For interest I say that in morning hours some pearls parked cars so that there was bus column, no space to leave. We found way a bit and drove down differently. Someone looked strange but soon realized we were the only smart ones there at moment. If they don't lift cars by hand they can stand in line till tomorrow, question arises what if owners bivouac somewhere today?
Well, it was really nice warm Saturday full of climbing pleasure, oh and heavenly beer in Logarski Kot I mustn't forget to mention.