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List of forums / Slovenia / Alpine ascents / Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica

Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica

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JusAvgustin4. 11. 2016 22:12:22
Exclusive ridge that I couldn't rate until today. All Prle's attachments and warning exclamation marks didn't prevent Andrej and me from crossing this special one among ridges today on the last day before the rains. Why special you'll ask. Most likely climbed even less than Z ridge of Mala Martuljška Ponca... Reasons probably several: ridge nowhere described in detail, difficulty such that it'll deter many and ridge actually almost terra incognita. Probably stays that way. I'll describe course and difficulty very sparingly, maybe some resent me but that's me. Great alpinist of classical era said "Lo devi provare".
Ridge that doesn't leave even a hardcore ridger indifferent, ridge that ranks in my personal top 3 traversed so far. Overhanging, bushy, steep, crumbly, insanely exposed, hard, above all complete absence of human traces.
Sparse description: From Požgana Mlinarica to Zadnja, then ridge to first tower (IV.), then along ledge to col and second tower (II-III.) Follows deepest col of ridge, up to third tower (very close to V.) Then ridge over pinnacles and towers to 4th tower (II-III) extremely exposed. Continuation no longer very hard, except one detail on penultimate tower which is III-IV). Ridge ends at junction of V ridge SVŠ. Traverse over very steep grass to secured alpine path. In no case down the scree. Approx climbing time 6 hrs. Difficulty high.
Enjoyed by Andrej and Juš

Big thanks to Maret who spurred me to climb the ridge, and sincere congrats to Andrej for all tricky pitches led, as leader in the team.
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica On Pm via PP1
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica PM2
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Backdrop of the day3
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Yay!4
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Project5
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica 6
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Far to the bottom7
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Scrambling8
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica View back9
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Detail of the tour10
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica A large number of towers, pinnacles...11
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Finger-licking good12
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Airy13
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Enjoyer14
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Happy15
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Towards the end16
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Traverse17
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Above Kot just like that18
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica Ship backdrop19
Ridge traverse Požgana Mlinarica-Spodnja Vrbanova špica A little further down then to the feast20
(+20)like
skalaš704. 11. 2016 22:53:19
Fun and bold, braaaavo to bothsmile!
like
dprapr5. 11. 2016 07:54:46
Ridges that tempt, years pass relentlessly.rolling eyes
Good for you that you did it.
(+6)like
Guest5. 11. 2016 08:05:01
Ridge I've been eyeing for years and want, but know it only from book Ridges of Slovenian Mountains-Milenko Arnejšek-Prle. Maybe someday....with someone...
Thanks for description and selected pics. Beautiful and respectful tour....something for the soul, just before weather worsens. Good luck on paths and ridges further.
(+2)like
Dr.ejči12. 11. 2016 11:07:10
A bit late (first had to work the weekend in exchange for that unforgettable Friday, then computer breakdown), but anyway...since we, with Matej, realized "my" project this year, it was somehow fair that "Juš's wish" also "fell into the bag"...what can I say?...definitely surprised me completely, among all my ridges...first with length...I know looks deceive, but this one just wouldn't end...we knew it wouldn't be easy, but such pitch I haven't led yet...especially not with frozen hands!...anyway, really among my/our/our top ridges...I agree with everything Juš wrote above, so I'll just enrich with "my eyes"...

correction: Juš led the 1st tower first in the team, so congrats to him too

Thanks, buddy, for another memorable...(to be continued...)
Towards today's project...1
...we were both rushing towards the sun...2
...as already said...project...3
...first warm-up on Zadnjo Mlinarico...4
...on Zadnji Mlinarici...(tegale, on the left, left as a memento)5
...we hadn't even dreamed how varied it would be...6
...friend...7
...my world...8
...details just keep coming...9
...towards the first, more serious detail...10
...rules the ridge...11
...the first serious one...12
...look back ...as if we had just started...13
...first attempt on the first tower... nope, have to go elsewhere...14
...right here... and credit goes to Juš...15
...a ledge, so to speak!...16
...reminiscent of some other memorable [thing]...17
...as if we were standing still the whole time???...18
...and ahead still all the fun...19
...fighter...20
...towards the biggest *** of the day...21
...below it...22
...above it...23
...sun, sun, come warm us!...24
...we continue in style...25
...a bit of bouldering doesn't miss us either...26
...desert...27
...snapshot...28
...one is very likely Prletov, the other??...29
...respect...30
...the guys and the girl we met in Vrata in the morning, staying warm all the time...31
...still no end in sight...32
...above the last zaj***...33
...and it looks so close...34
...outstanding, frozen traverse...climax for ballet flats...35
...immeasurable joy!!!!...36
(+24)like
Guest12. 11. 2016 12:27:36
Nice pics that can really help repeaters. Congrats for the "turco". Good luck.
(+5)like
Dr.ejči12. 11. 2016 13:24:31
Yeah, well... on the ridge the direction is basically set... no "right-wrong", just "harder-easier"velik nasmeh...from pics you can't really see the actual statemežikanje...the whole "fight" with bushes isn't shown velik nasmeh
(+5)like
JusAvgustin12. 11. 2016 14:27:05
Thanks for the pics. Nicely shot. Memorable yeah. One of many. Wonder what else is coming...
ps thanks "minus guys" for opinions...zavijanje z očmi
(+3)like
dprapr12. 11. 2016 17:12:29
Nicely documented!
Pics are the law, I get most from them.mežikanje
Anyway Styrians fight with pines, so bushes don't faze me.nasmeh
Agree with en-goldy.
(+4)like
lijaneja12. 11. 2016 20:40:23
Congrats guys for the description, pics and especially the ascent. Despite short day, cold, snow and difficulty, it's a small joke for you.
(+2)like
Shkaro28. 11. 2021 20:34:08
On Saturday (20.11.2021) we traversed the ridge from Požgana Mlinarica via Spodnja to Visoka Vrbanova špica. Although we've done some ridges in Slovenia so far, I have to admit this is one of the wildest: D Beautifully varied, exposed, long with nice details but also quite crumbly. Orientation no big issue, best to stick to the ridge line itself. As written before, couple details IV and one V, others II-III but not trivial either since ridge mostly very exposed and no room for errors. Most surprised by amount of bushes nasmeh) Lots of fights with bushes, too many nasmeh This time of year sun low azimuth and ridge mostly in shade because Rjavina takes all sun and very little on ridge nasmeh So watch for cold, snow and ice ... On ridge occasionally old pegs (V detail, ~15m we found 3 pegs), so count on own protection as much as possible. Biggest issue of our trip not the ridge itself but snowy traverse under Spodnja Vrbanova špica and ascent to it, because snow hard and icy. Ridge was dry and mostly snow-free ... some snow patches in bushes where no sun. Plan was descent Za Cmirom but night caught us a bit and snow so hard we didn't dare the traverse under Begunjski vrh, so went over Prag because knew someone descended day before. Can't say it's the nicest ridge we've done, but definitely wildest and recommend to all hardcores to try ... but earlier, not this season nasmeh
Ascent to Požgana Mlinarica and view of the ridge.1
Last traverse far to the left before the ascent right directly to the summit of Požgana Mlinarica.2
Behind us you can see the snowy traverse under Spodnja Vrbanova špica, but we ignore it for now :)3
Beautiful Luknja Peč and Rjavina.4
View of the ridge awaiting us ... when we looked into the traverse under Spodnja Vrbanova špica, our balls tightened a bit, but we said - let's go :)5
After easier terrain and some scrub we quickly reach the first major jump III-IV6
Fight with the scrub :)7
Towers and pinnacles and labyrinth between them :)8
Exceptionally exposed traverse :)9
After the towers we climbed back directly onto the ridge10
The view ahead towards the traverse hasn't improved at all :)11
One of many downclimbs.12
Another IV detail... directly into the gully to the left and from it right directly up to the ridge.13
So they said...the biggest fuck-up of the day...well, here we come :)14
Details keep coming :)15
The narrowest part of the ridge before the poetry, which was crunchy even for us, so I'd rather call it tragicomedy :)16
Tragicomedy ahead :)17
Beautifully exposed sections of the ridge keep coming :)18
A little more sunshine :)19
The ridge has no end, but we are very happy too :)20
Another damn detail.. I'd say IV and the wall is quite crumbly :/21
And there it is... our beast... that traverse took some years of my life, but fortunately not all.22
After the traverse the terrain isn't any better and we were still fighting with scree and hard snow ... only here on the ridge did we feel a bit safer.23
On the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova špica... thanks Triglav for some sun <324
Another beast below the summit of Spodnja Vrbanova špica towards Visoka Vrbanova... chamois helped us with navigation here :)25
It's not exactly easy to climb even the secured paths with crampons, but it goes slowly and safely.26
A little before the summit of Visoka Vrbanova špica..27
No words...28
We look back towards the ridge and can't believe what's behind us ... and how everything happened in one day :)29
I think that must be Triglav, the biggest shadow on the horizon :)30
On the summit of Visoka Vrbanova špica... everything great, but a long descent awaits us :)31
Last look at Triglav and searching for the best descent path ... we wanted to descend via Cmirom, but it was too hard and icy, so we went via Prag and descended safely around 8:30 pm. Nice long day.32
(+26)like
JusAvgustin29. 11. 2021 07:43:50
Bravo guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Interesting, right?mežikanje
(+3)like
lijaneja29. 11. 2021 08:05:02
Resonant tour in demanding season.
(+4)like
dprapr29. 11. 2021 11:30:40
Nicely described, great tour.
Settled it with fists, who gets to summit first?nasmeh(pic 31)
(+5)like
Shkaro29. 11. 2021 12:59:30
Drago hahahaha, yeah, couldn't decide that either and in the end reached the summit together velik nasmeh
(+5)like
Dr_Ursic2. 12. 2021 18:24:04
Bravo Hudiči velik nasmeh
(+2)like
Shkaro2. 12. 2021 22:05:38
Juš - yeah, very interesting ridge nasmeh
Tone, last year we had similar conditions on Turn pod Razorom, so it was some kind of anniversary velik nasmeh
Thanks doctor nasmeh
(+2)like
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