| JusAvgustin26. 11. 2011 18:15:02 |
Prle: "The most adventurous, alpinistic and pathless risky Karawanks ridge. At the same time crumbly, scree-filled and overhanging rubble".
Today's perfect choice! So we happily drove from Radovljica to Tinkova hut already at 5am, from there via normal route to Suho rušje, from SR to Žleb and from there traverse to entry to NE ridge Vrtaca, 3rd gully enjoyable scree II-III variant is "n"  Again in the direction with the difference that today we saw at least something... And such beauty of our oldest mountain range... , that we decided on the top to "scree-bash" the whole ridge to Stol! From the top (Slovenian ) we went via south path to saddle, then pathless through pre-summits of Vrtaca (crumbly) to notch between Gradovi and Vrtaca... Great part, enjoyable climbing over Gradovi to Sedlo Belščica, where we rest legs a bit on grassy cushions. From there we went along the ridge edge through Planiski spici (Jelenčka V and Z) to Belščica and to Celovška špica From Celovska spica we descended along Orlic ridge to last notch and from there I-II via NE couloir of Stol to wall exit and another 5 min walk to Stol top Weather optimal, rock was very cold on N side, enjoyable on S side, difficulties, where they are, are constant, though ridge doesn't exceed III, but there are still two spots , anyway super warm-up on the ridge that deserves more visits than it gets... Needs caution, firm step, psyche in place and tempo... We were through in 4h, Tour total: TB_SR 1.5h SR via NE ridge-top Vrtaca 1h, top-Stol 4h, Stol-descent via Zagon 1.5h
I recommend the ridge to all not afraid of "scree" and rubble, deep views and backclimbing. On ridge one rappel with rope but we didn't use it, also climbed without any protection. Not such terrible scree as many say...(I've seen much worse scree and climbed them...)
Thanks Snork for company and Pippi for being snack
Ridge requires knowledge of basic alp. skills, not for "normal" people, especially the whole orthodox ridge route. We didn't make many bypasses, so grade is relative.
Juš, Klemen, Pipi(the Pig)
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