| JusAvgustin12. 11. 2011 17:46:43 |
With "piggy" load we start at 5am from Vrata in total darkness. Cold is "like crazy", fog so thick you could cut it, cold wind blowing, no stars. "Weather guys screwed it again," I think. We bite into the slope, straps mercilessly digging into shoulders... yeah, the guy ain't no more "soft annual rucksack guy", get used to winter one, I quietly hum. Soon a crack and Matej behind is dying of laughter. I smashed head straight into a branch and broke it in half. Yeah, good morning to you too!  Soon we're out of forest, hope for clearness soon eaten by fog, which was "up" thickest! "This ain't real," we say (weather has huge impact on psyche on ascent...). We walk another five mins, then finally! fog layer breaks and we see clear. Hooray! Both like in choir, we'll have a nice one! Soon at junction for B IV, continue right under DŠ and soon catch first sun rays. Oh how nice! Man, batteries recharge! Continue to fork, left Škrlatica and DŠ, right wall! and our route. Already grinning in distance sunlit. Jackpot we say, gearing up on ledge. Follows nice chimney climbing all 8 pitches, rock pleasant temp, only in shady spots cold! Soon climb out of wall, cross snowfield and already on marked path to Škrlatica. Decide not to go to summit, hurrying to valley for beer!
Alpine route, climbing cracks and chimneys, SE route equipped with pegs, but recommend a friend or cam. Recommend long slings. No serious orientation issues in route, fairly easy too.
When climbing route, looked forward to rest on top of wall, but gale wind soon chased us to valley. Descent: current conditions such that without crampons and axe don't go to Škrlatica, snow frozen and damn hard. Descended via normale Rock in route very good! Only under last chimney turns "Martuljek-like". Exit loaded, caution not superfluous!
Regards, PN
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