| Filip_Culjak6. 11. 2020 10:01:32 |
On Monday (2.11.2020.) my brother and I had a day off. Due to nice weather and summer temperatures, we decided to use the day for a lesser-known tour that is rarely visited. At 6:30 we started before the bridge over Pišnica and quickly progressed along the road to the turnoff for Kačji greben path. The path over Kačji greben is without features, very slippery in some places and quite leafy in the upper part. Due to possible slipping, more caution is needed. We followed the marked path all the way to the last steeper scree slope towards Špik (around 2100 m) and turned left towards the notch between Špik and Frdamanih polic. In the notch we left our backpacks and turned left towards the top of Frdamanih polic. The path is without features; you have to climb a bit in some places, but mostly walk on a steeper slope. At the top we ate a Corny and returned to the notch. We put on climbing gear, the rope was ready for use, but we didn't use it because of the quite broken and crumbly rock that offers poor belay options. The ridge offers really airy climbing on a very narrow and loose ridge that hangs a bit to the left into the depth towards the cirque Pod Srcem. We attacked numerous towers directly; where direct is not possible, we bypassed the towers on the south side. We retreated to the north side once, at the end of the most difficult part of the ridge to bypass a tower which we then straddled and were back on the south side. Here a few meters of descent separate us from the notch between the ridge and the summit roof of Špik. From the notch there are several possible variants, as the wall is quite fractured. Still, here we encountered the technically most difficult detail of the route (chimney, III+) which can be bypassed on the left side (II, more crumbly). Although the chimney is technically the hardest, it is still much easier than the entire ridge. Here the summit is separated from us by no more than 100 meters of elevation on an easy slope (mostly I; if searching, we encounter II). After 5:30 h from the start we are at the top of Špik. Views incredible, day wonderful and warm. We stayed at the top for an hour and a half and then express down through snow and scree to the slippery forest in Kačji graben. At the car at 15:30. Nice tour that offers airy climbing in very crumbly rock, and moves mostly around II degree, in some places III. (Grades are personal impression).
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