List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Špikov graben

Špikov graben

Jovan Cukut8. 07. 2013 15:00:07

Current conditions in Špik Gully are presented in the pictures and comments at the link below.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/SpikovGraben0607201302#

(+9)

JusAvgustin4. 07. 2014 21:51:44

Today with Dr.ejči in the gully. The wall right of the gully serves up some nice IIIs, later in the "couloir" things ease off. Before descent we did 7 pitches, most on rock with plenty of black dirt and exposed traverses on steep grass. But when we entered the "fridge", there was hard snow, almost concrete to the top, with huge gaping bergschrunds the whole length. The steepness wasn't so scary as the length. We weren't cold. From the col we tried twice to find a passage to Lipnica but failed. First due to a slab that wasn't III by any chance, and second because we both had our fill. Summa summarum, a cool day at the standard venue.

(+12)

milepetro7. 07. 2014 22:29:28

Has anyone been to Špik these days past the hut in Krnica or through Kačji graben? Interested in conditions as I plan to go up on Saturday, of course if weather permits. Mainly how much snow and where.

Dr.ejči8. 07. 2014 07:46:00

A bit late, but still. Some more "my view" from Friday's adventure.

Velika Dnina with Velika Martuljška Ponca.

(+4)

Jovan Cukut8. 07. 2014 08:02:34

Nice, I see my and Janez's tour has become very popular. But from pictures it doesn't look that easy. Do you agree, Juš and Dr.ejči?

(+1)

Dr.ejči8. 07. 2014 08:08:47

Just added a few more, hehe.
Otherwise we've been thinking about this tour for quite a while, but no right moment. You two beat us to it, hehe mežikanje

.
Our first attempt (winter) failed due to avalanches, so we had to pay the debt. Ambience is crazy, tour far from easy. Next time to the top?

(+1)

jedriličar8. 07. 2014 10:18:48

Nice. Congrats ....

dolenjka&primorc8. 07. 2014 12:05:34

Super

redbull4. 09. 2022 09:34:25

Šp. Gully and Southern chute MMP (03.09.22)

Špik Gully is no small undertaking and since there is no snow at the bottom we could start directly on rock to that right ledge. It's III difficulty. This wall is quite greasy due to its location. After securing this part, somewhat easier terrain on wet ground be it grass, earth, or rock. Concentration must be great. Larches are plentiful here and pitons too where needed. All along the right side of the gully, dry in the lower part of course. Best ascent in June, July where there is still plenty of snow in the continuation too. 60m rope is enough, but only when there are also several meters of snow. The rope didn't reach the floor, so we descended diagonally right into the gully and David set another belay below for descent to the snow-filled gully. Diagonally right now 2 extra pitons probably not used by some especially in spring then enough snow. Not much snow so crampons only where snow. Bare rock jumps not so problematic, much scree grit over ice but only to halfway. From here to top Špikova škrbina bare rock gully. Never so exhausted from grit as here inside. Who climbs after such one wonders probably none. Some passage through hole too. On Škrbina breathe easy and looking left Western ridge Mala Martuljska Ponca squeezes. Maybe sometime. Ascent Lipnica right side David did with mates. Not so hard only to one part loaded with flakes sliding under feet. We to Martuljek back so from saddle descend holding rock left all time. That orange scree catastrophe especially normal route MMP. Ascend south side more nicely southern chute (correct if wrong). Higher hit cairns. Led to summit Mala Martuljska Ponca. Great ascent especially with heavy packs almost unimaginable. Descend saddle and down gully direction Na Pečeh summit. Nice pathless like returning here. Quick back Krnica under Srce. Morning fog didn't see well now observe mighty Špik Gully. Descent refreshed by cool water along path. Today's ascent tough as usually not climbed such time. But surely return sometime spring when enough snow gully.