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Srednji Rokav from Kotel

lijaneja5. 08. 2018 16:17:41

Rokavi are always a challenge for me and I visit them regularly; yesterday my wish came true with the approach from the beautiful cirque called Kotel.
I monitored the weather forecasts for a few days and Saturday was supposed to be the right day, without afternoon thunderstorms; light fog was supposed to stay more in the mid-mountains. The morning view from Vrata to Triglav with a cap wasn't promising at all. But the parking fee collector raised my adrenaline, as he already had trouble with change at six and sent us to the lower parking lot. On the return, it was full of cars on the meadow between Šlajmerjev and Aljažev dom. Wrong world. We who hurry to the mountains early with backpacks can handle a couple hundred meters more walking than the morning coffee drinkers who drive almost to the bar. nasmeh

Crowds of hikers rushed straight up the Vrata valley, I went right behind Šlajmer and in the morning silence overtook only about ten people to the bivouac. There I changed clothes for the first time and noticed that fog was already above Dolkova špica. Below the Škrlatica scree, due to dense fog and cold, I had to put on a headband, gloves and long pants; first visitors were already returning from the top, grumbling about forecasters. For me it was unpleasant only because of how I'd find the entry from the scree to the Rokav notch in fog if it persisted.
At the start of the climbing part there was a display of hiking poles; I attached mine to the backpack as I'd need them badly in steep scree. Since my last visit some cables are dangling, one high up is newly installed, which is very welcome as I often went straight there instead of left up the slope.
When I reached the shoulder, I descended to Kotel, left a bottle of liquid in the snow and plunged into the slope. In snow it'd be easy, but it's scree that doesn't allow vertical progress. I reached under the wall, fog still persisted and somehow I found the entry to the notch. After about 50 m of slope (biggest trouble loose rocks), I reached the saddle. To the Rokav summit there is another 70 m elevation, which I routinely completed in a good ten minutes. Fog meanwhile slowly cleared (except on Škrlatica) and enjoyment on top was complete. Up there is a new logbox with book, last entry 7.7.
Really glad I didn't start earlier from home, otherwise no views. Descent to saddle not demanding, for less routine hikers four equipped stances. Due to mentioned loose rocks descent to scree more demanding, noticed two pegs at key spots. 110 m scrambling down scree to Kotel bottom and 190 m ascent to shoulder, sun already a bit much. When so close, went to cross to the queen. Again pisses me off that almost new empty logbook in nice self-closing box completely soaked. Scum, hiking!!!

Srednji Rokav from Kotel The morning Triglav with cap did not please me at all.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Also Dolkova špica above the four confirmed the suspicion of a wrong weather forecast.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel View towards Kotel from the steepest scree slope I've experienced so far.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Dovški križ from the top of the Rokav glacier.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Bivak II Na jezerih from Srednji Rokav

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Spodnji Rokav 2500

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Široka peč and Dovški križ

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Visoki Rokav 2646 (upper sedmina)

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Nice sunny day. 11h 36min

Srednji Rokav from Kotel New log box - Visoki Rokav in the back.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Upper part of Kotel and saddle between Rokavs.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Lower and Rogljati Rokav.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Dolkova špica, below it the saddle of Škrlaticina's shoulder where you descend to Kotel.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Connecting ridge between Škrlatica and VR.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Expansive saddle (Rokav notch)

Srednji Rokav from Kotel VR from frog perspective

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Kotel without mists

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Ozebnik and Dovški križ

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Očak from Kotel

Srednji Rokav from Kotel The mists have finally cleared

Srednji Rokav from Kotel On Škrlatica - Špik

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Zatrep of Velika dnina

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Englishmen, Croats...

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Široka peč, Kukova špica and Dovški križ. In front Visoki Rokav.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Once again my mountain. The entry into the notch is between snow patches.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Left Rogljica 2547, right Rakova špica 2545.

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Summit of Srednji Rokav

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Express scree field below Škrlatica

Srednji Rokav from Kotel Anthill at Kredarica

(+12)

Gorska planika10. 08. 2018 10:27:14

Yesterday we set off to explore the Rokave with the heartfelt wish to succeed in reaching and finding the way at least to one. We start in Vrata, where there was already huge traffic early, and head towards Škrlatica. Although it was pleasantly fresh in the valley, higher up the sultriness hit. We climb quickly and one two three sweaty we arrive at the saddle below Škrlatica, where we descend to Kotel. Good that a pleasant breeze was blowing here, so we dried off. We cross the snowfield and already climb the scree towards the entry to Rokavska škrbina. We find a gully, climb into it, then..that feeling, is it right or not...hmm...better descend and climb into one gully higher. Hmm, looks even worse. "Nothing, the first one will be right - let's try again". It paid off! This time it opened up for us and immediately we are at Rokavska škrbina, then with enthusiasm to the summit of Srednji Rokav. Lots of scree, rock is quite compact but you never know when something stays in your hand...caution with thought really not superfluous. At the summit...what joy! Views, wilderness, such climbing...hard to describe all those feelings...
We dawdle and descend to the notch, from where we look at Visoki Rokav. Hmm, looks wild, leave it for next time when we go with someone more familiar here nasmeh

Better go check Spodnji Rokav. Descend even lower, find entry and follow cairns. Then suddenly we don't see them anymore. Hm, where now? We search, look around, didn't find the right path to the summit. But so close! "Ok, we'll come back here", we decide and go back to Kotel and up towards Škrlatica again nasmeh

This time straight up the whole gully from Kotel direct to the summit. Tough! We climb, search passages, good rock and holds, watch the scree...and...when I spot the cross shining from the summit, a super happy smile draws on my face...I shift into turbo speed and at the summit already screaming with joy and encouraging Rajko that we excellently found this path! nasmeh

We enjoy the views, think about the walked...really for the soul... Still descent to Vrata and this fantastic day that will be deeply anchored in my memory is coming to an end...

On Škrbina after Škrlatica we admire the wonderful Rokavi

We descend into the pleasantly cool Kotel :)

Across the scree to the entrance of the gully towards Rokavska škrbina.

Before the entrance to the initial climbing section.

Rokavska škrbina and the view opens to Dovški križ.

Slipping on scree towards Spodnji Rokav.

And already ascending towards the summit.

Turns around and goes back up to Škrlatica :)

Searching for interesting passages to the summit of Kraljica.

On the other side I spot cables and a marked path to Škrlatica! Wow!

But I decide that today we go our own way and turn right and search for passages again...

Already looking from the top and observing this world...

View of Oltar and VMP... good that there were clouds so it wasn't too hot

(+15)

dprapr10. 08. 2018 11:34:05

We watched you across the valley, how you were scurrying in the sun nasmeh

Picture 26:
You definitely went too high. When the cairns ran out, you should have just climbed about 10m slightly right upward and immediately right into the gully and after exposed traverse around right. Then passages open far across gullies to the wall edge where you see Bivak II. From there just upward and when it closes, right across smooth (2k) ledge sprinkled with scree and behind the edge up the gully to the top.
I also there, like you two, first went too high because that right traverse seemed too hard to assess the approach. When I "properly grabbed" it, I knew it was right.

(+2)

Gorska planika10. 08. 2018 14:56:07

Ooo, really? From where? nasmeh

Oh, damn! Really thanks for the tip, it'll really come in handy for the repeat ascent! nasmeh

(+1)

lijaneja10. 08. 2018 21:35:34

Too bad you didn't get my nice pukel. I had the phone with me all the time if you got in trouble...
https://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=5487&stran=1

mukica11. 08. 2018 07:44:31

Congratulations Neža and Rajko, great tour nasmeh

(+2)

Gorska planika11. 08. 2018 08:43:13

Tone, we both called you, but no signal mrk pogled

we really thought of you! nasmeh

Martina, thanks! nasmeh

JTrogar11. 08. 2018 22:12:39

Congratulations to both!
I was a bit jealous of you. mežikanje

Best regards and safe steps from under beautiful Golte, Janez

(+1)

kolpa12. 08. 2018 22:51:28

Please, can knowledgeable people of the ascent to Middle Rokav write more precisely where the route or path to Kotel branches off, before entering Škrlatica wall or after the path on picture 2 of Gorska planika. Thanks and good luck!

lijaneja13. 08. 2018 06:57:44

Miran, first a little lesson. These are not Kotli, but it's Kotel. Rokavski Kotel. Kotli, lower, middle and upper are between bivouac under Špik and Mala Martuljska Ponca.
The branch-off (descent) from Škrlatica I've described several times. When on ascent to Škrlatica all Rokavi first appear, also part of Kotel and route turns sharply left to ridge, you stand on small saddle with 3m hump on right. There start descending indistinct gully and always keep more left. In good weather no problems, and no snow patches hindering anymore. Look at my pic 17, read this link too.
Good luck.
https://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=5487&stran=1

(+3)

kolpa13. 08. 2018 09:12:06

"Lijaneja" thanks for the info. Regards

Lunatixz7. 09. 2018 09:52:54

Actually not exactly in this thread, but I'd still nicely ask for info on difficulty (technical + orientation) of approach to Škrlatica from Šplevta direction (so over Rokavski glacier, descent to Kotel and then to Škrlatica summit). From pictures I conclude no rope needed - but better check anyway.

Many thanks for reply!

lijaneja7. 09. 2018 10:20:04

I think that in summer conditions, when there's no snow in the Rokavski glacier, few people decide to ascend it. The issue is the severe steepness, rocks are just waiting to change their location velik nasmeh

. In my opinion the most suitable month is May or June, when snow is a big help also on the steep scree below the glacier.
The rest is quite well described in this topic. Once you're at the top of the glacier, descent to Kotel has neither orientation nor technical difficulties, in the lower part before stepping on the scree, only rollers are annoying. When crossing Kotel, you ascend towards Škrlatica shoulder always slightly left, cairns will help you too.

Lunatixz7. 09. 2018 11:18:26

Aha, I was just wondering if ascent over the glacier is feasible at all - from afar it looks like no. That the slope is steep and due to rocks the fastest possible ascent is recommended, I am aware. Thanks for all info nasmeh

Heavy_bull22. 09. 2019 20:20:32

Yesterday (21.9.2019) in super conditions on Middle Rokav from Kotel. At the top nice new summit register box. For future ascenders I provide my view of the ascent course in pictures.