Dabri and Dabarski kukovi (Velebit)
Unlike the central ridge of the middle Velebit from Zečjak to Visibaba, which is higher but has peaks of mild shapes and often covered with meadows, such as e.g. Šatorina and Budakovo brdo, the continuation of that ridge starting from Bačić kuk to Ljubički kuk above Oštarije presents a completely different picture. The clearest impression of this group we will get from its highest peak, Bačić kuk (fig. 6). From here, as nowhere else, an unusually regular row of white limestone kukovi stands out that stretches in an almost straight line towards the southeast in a length of almost 10 km, rising from the green base of the surrounding forests and grassy dolines. Among them the most prominent, starting from the north, are Bačić kuk, Kukaline, Butinovača, Kiza, Grabar and Ljubičko brdo. Hikers noticed this row of kukovi rather late, probably because from the perspective of the well-trodden paths and karst fields at its base it is not possible to grasp it as a whole, and each individual part appears to the observer of limited range like an isolated massif that differs only slightly in details from its neighbours. These are probably also the reasons why this integral group has not had a special name until today, neither among the people nor among experts. I called it Dabarski kukovi because along its northeastern base a chain of peculiar karst depressions with arable soil has lined up, among which the three most prominent are known as Dabri (Crni, Ravni and Došen Dabar); the fourth and prettiest among them is Bačić duliba, and the fifth, overgrown with forest, is Crna duliba. A longitudinal traverse of the Dabarski kukovi along the ridge is not possible due to the terrible fragmentation of their ridge. Visiting individual kukovi is possible from the path on the northeastern base that connects the mentioned dolines (marked as part of the Pl. path "Velebno") or from the Premužić tourist path on their southwestern base. Both start from Oštarije. By car the approach can be significantly shortened by the road that descends from Oštarije towards Karlobag, then at Šušanj turns right along the longitudinal Velebit road to Dabarska kosa, and even further to Bačić duliba under Bačić kuk (poorly maintained).
Baške Oštarije and surroundings:
BAŠKE OŠTARIJE (927 m) are an important Velebit pass on the Gospić - Karlobag road, which is also the border between the middle and southern Velebit. The name Oštarije is of Romance origin and denotes inns (Ital. osteria) halfway between Lika and the coast. The central place is the hotel "Velebno" which was soon rebuilt after shelling in the Homeland War as a 4-star hotel, and the church of the Visitation of St. Elizabeth which was rebuilt with donations from Austrian believers. West of the village Oštarije, at the Vrata pass, there is a stone cube (Kubus, lat.), a monument from 1847 erected on the occasion of the completion of that important Velebit road.
Sadikovac (1286 m) 2,30 h.
The ascent begins at the former school in Oštarije and initially follows the first section of the VPP through the southern Velebit. It climbs through beech forest past the poles of the ski lift, crosses the pass between Sladovačko brdo and Jelar (from here there is an easy ascent to the right to the peak of Jelar with a view of the Oštarijsko polje) and descends to the beautiful and large sladovačke meadows. Here the marking branches left from the VPP. Initially it follows the stone fence and the edge of the shrub on the slope of Sladovačko brdo, then descends through grassy scree and a beech copse into the so-called Srednji (Krajnji) dolac. This is followed by a sharp ascent through primeval beech forest, then scrub, to the pass between the grassy Veliki and rocky Mali Sadikovac. Along the ridge a little further to the right to the peak. Along the way there is a wide karst pit (caution, especially in fog!). There is also a variant of the ascent from the other end of the oštarijsko polje, where the road begins to descend towards Gospić, from where there is only 1,30 h of ascent.
Ljubičko brdo (1320 m) 1,30-2 h.
The hill is visible from Oštarije as a wide grassy ridge almost 1 km long, with a prominent group of smooth kukovi and rocks at the northwestern end (Ljubički kuk, 1337 m). Rising from the source of the Ljubica stream, it closes the oštarijsko polje from the north. In the lower part it is covered with forest and scrub, and in the upper third it is mountain grassland, except on the rocks of Ljubički kuk. The ascent begins at the church, where from the asphalt the village road turns along the Ljubica stream towards the water reservoir of the Oštarije waterworks. About 150 m before it, the marking turns left uphill at the place where the forest ride ends. Along that ride uphill, afterwards pathless, to the rocky belt that stretches along the entire western slope of the hill. Through a natural gap 3 m high one must climb to the beginning of the karst slope covered with shrubs, all the way to the meadow belt. Ascent through the meadow towards the ridge and left to the peak (total 400 m height difference). As orientation a large wooden cross can serve, which was placed on the peak by hikers from Gospić on 29. 4. 1995. From the peak descent to the other side is possible and then ascent to some Dabarski kukovi (Kuk od Špiljić plane, 1232 m; Grabar, 1255 m) and further to Kiza.
LJUBIČKO BRDO bounds from the northern side the deep notch through which the road leads over Baške Oštarije. From the road the rocks of Medvjeđi kuk are well visible, which continue directly onto the grassy ridge of Ljubičko brdo. Lower slopes are wooded to half height, from where the grassy ridge continues. On the highest summit there is a large wooden cross, which can also be seen from Baške Oštarije. The view that opens from the summit is extraordinarily picturesque because it encompasses the peaks of southern Velebit, the sea, Lika, Dabarski kukovi and especially the Oštarije road.
Metla (1288 m) 2,30 h.
To that prominent peak on the Lika edge of the Velebit plateau leads a path from the church in the south direction, first half an hour by village road to the reservoir, then right below the picturesque Filipov kuk surrounded by black pine. A hundred m further is the sinkhole Crno vrelo, after which follows a longer ascent, which at first is shortened by the cart track, then leads over clearings and through forest to the narrow stone pyramid on the summit (logbook and stamp). The summit has long been popular among Gospić hikers (formerly climbed via Jadovno). Descent is possible on the other side via Jadovno to Lika. If we have less time and strength, it is worth going by road towards Karlobag about 30' to Kubus at the Vrata pass itself, which was erected during the construction of the road. From there there is also an excellent view of the sea.
Baške Oštarije - Stupačinovo - Dabarska kosa - Ravni Dabar (Premužićeva staza) 2,30h
APPROACH: by bus or own transport to Baške Oštarije. From Hotel "Velebno" 400 m towards Karlobag, where at the former school right over the bridge on the Ljubica stream the cart track to Stupačinovo branches off. At the entrance to the village, immediately left below the road, there is a strong Petrovac spring. From Stupačinovo there is an easy ascent to two Dabarski kukovi, Kiza and Grabar. On the other side the cart track becomes a path (Premužićeva staza), which in a gentle descent reaches Dabarska kosa, where it crosses the longitudinal Velebit road Sušanj - Štirovača (great view of Ravni Dabar, the mountain hut in it and the kuk Čelina in its background). From Oštarije 2,30-3 h, descent to the hut 30'.
Baške Oštarije - Stupačinovo (- Kiza) - Alaginac pass - Crni Dabar - Ravni Dabar 2,30h
From the "Velebno" hotel road 100 m west, then over the concrete bridge right on the gravel road north. 30' to the vast grassy plain Stupačinovo (marked shortcuts are a bit shorter). From Stupačinovo continue by road to the sharp right bend, where at the spring left uphill the steep path branches off that leads 30' uphill to the Alaginac saddle between the kuks Kiza and Grabar. After 20' from the road left uphill the ascent to the peak of Kiza branches off, about 40' long. From Stupačinovo there are two variants of ascent. The orientationally easier and shorter one leads directly to the peak by rocky slope in the direction of the well-visible small triple kuk on the summit. The more interesting approach leads from the entrance to Stupačinovo by road right 10' to the sharp right bend (here the altitude is 1048 m), where left under the rock is the Kamenica spring (drip water collects in a natural basin). From there ascent left by footpath to the small, obliquely placed clearing, where the marking forks: straight uphill through beech forest leads over the Alaginac pass to Crni Dabar, and our path turns left through undulating terrain through forest, rocks and meadows under the summit rocks, where the box with the stamp is. To the summit another 10' through rock. Grabar (1255 m). If from the fork above Kamenica on the path to Kiza one continues straight uphill through forest to the Alaginac pass, from there one can go left through rock to the Grabar kuk (about 1200 m), a nice and short climbing feat. On the northwestern side of Grabar there is a huge half-cave whose ceiling collapsed in one place, so on the summit itself there is a pit through which the bottom of the cave is visible (Grabarsko okno). Premužićeva staza passes by cart track through Stupačinovo, behind it continues between the Babur enclosures at the base of Kiza in the western direction and then climbs through forest to the pass between Butinovača and Kiza.
KIZA (1274 m)
is a rocky and picturesque ridge that belongs to the Dabarski kukovi. It is almost 2 km long and consists of numerous limestone rocks and kukovi of imposing shapes that stretch in the form of a distinct wall between Crni Dabar and the Praprotnjak bay. The northern slope is covered with forest, and the southern one is mostly karst meadow. Thanks to its prominent position, the summit of Kiza is a very rewarding viewpoint on the chain of Dabarski kukovi and across them all the way to Šatorina. From Kiza one must descend again by the same path, so rucksacks can be left on the path along the way. Continue on the path to the Alaginac pass, after which we begin a deep descent into Crni Dabar, constantly through forest.
RAVNI DABAR (723 m)
is a vast karst doline with a flat bottom resembling an almost regular bowl. It is surrounded by rocky kukovi of Butinovača, Visibaba and Čelina. From the former village that was abandoned in the sixties only the school building has been preserved, which PD "Industrogradnja" from Zagreb adapted into a mountain hut. It is an excellent base for trips to the Dabri and to the Dabarski kukovi and other surrounding peaks.
The hut warden is Mile Prpić from the nearby village Kućišta.
It has 60 beds, sanitary facilities, water supplied from a cistern, a kitchen, cooking is possible. Nearest civilisation, medical and other services: Baške Oštarije - Karlobag. Distance from the nearest road: 40' walk.
Ravni Dabar - Došen Dabar - Bačić-duliba - Korita (- Bačić-kuk) (- Budakovo brdo) - Bačić-kosa - Visibaba - Ravni Dabar
2-6 h ..
By the narrow path that starts immediately next to the hut we go north, gently ascending to the small pass between Ravni and Došen Dabar, where to the right branches the path to the kuk Čelina. The path from the pass gently descends to the cistern in Došen Dabar, from where there is a nice view of Kiza, and there is also the PPV stamp. Further we again gently ascend to the pass between Došen Dabar and Bačić-duliba, and then descend into it. Before us now the imposing rocky Bačić-kuk is outlined.
BAČIĆ-DULIBA
is one of the prettiest Velebit dulibas. Meadows and groves alternate on it, and above it, on the western side, the rocky Bačić-kuk dominates. We cross the road that runs along the western edge of Bačić-duliba and here we come across the PPV stamp. This is followed by an ascent to the saddle towards the doline called Korita, and further along it uphill first through grassy terrain, then steeply through forest to a junction in the forest: right to the summit of Bačić-kuk 50', left along the contour to Bačić-kosa 20'. When descending from Bačić-kuk we will have to return to the same spot.
BAČIĆ-KUK (1304 m)
is the highest peak of the Dabarski kukovi. It consists of a cluster of huge rocky cliffs of various heights and steepnesses. The highest peak is reached from the gully among the summit rocks, where in a small dolac on the rock there is a box with the logbook and stamp. From the dolac with the stamp to the summit there is another 10' ascent on rock which is in places quite difficult for inexperienced hikers. Among the views the one towards Bačić duliba stands out, with the high stone obelisk below us.
Bačić kuk (1304 m) actually consists of a group of bare rocky kukovi of various heights and steepnesses, which is why it offers the possibility for climbing feats of various degrees of difficulty. It is at the same time the highest peak of the Dabarski kukovi group and from the summit it offers a nice and informative overview of their row, which like a white, jagged and torn ridge juts out from the forest greenery towards Oštarije to the southeast in a length of about 10 km. On the ascent it is definitely recommended to detour to the mentioned gully between the northern and southern group (5' ascent), from where on the other side there is a unique view down the couloir that drops over 300 m deep towards the green oasis of Bačić duliba and to the imposing stone obelisk that rises quite separately from the group to a height of about a hundred metres. From Bačić kuk one can easily and quickly descend in 40' to Bačić duliba on the longitudinal Velebit road (fig. 8), if on the return from the summit at the pass one turns east pathless to the meadows at the bottom of the Korita valley, and from there left by path that leads over the lower wooded ridge to the road at Bačić duliba. On the path towards Bačić-kosa we come across a right branch to the summit of Budakovo brdo 1h.
BUDAKOVO BRDO (1317 m)
is a vast and elongated ridge, in its summit part covered with grassy meadows. It rises above Skropovac on the Premužićeva staza, from where a marked path leads to the summit and continues on the other side to Bačić kuk. Due to its position and free view it offers a view of both the coastal and the inland side of the mountain. On the southwestern slope of its ridge Soline there is a site of the Velebit degenia. Return from Budakovo brdo is possible the same way and by the Premužićeva staza that follows the contour on the western slope of Budakovo brdo (on that part it leads through forest, so there is no view). If we return the same way and then continue right towards Bačić-kosa we will soon reach the ruins of the Mountain hut on Bačić-kosa, which after being abandoned was completely destroyed by bura. To the left of the hut we continue across the meadow, then through forest with a very gentle ascent to the summit of Visibaba.
VISIBABA (1160 m)
is an easily accessible peak above Ravni Dabar that offers a unique view of the sea and islands and of the Dabarski kukovi and Dabri. From Visibaba follows a very steep descent of 30' to the road that passes above Ravni Dabar. If we have time, the best is to go by road right to the place where left downhill the cart track to the hut in Ravni Dabar branches off (30-40').