List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m

Viper9. 08. 2015 21:10:39

I see I haven't posted anything for a long time.
Well today I finally went there, which I really wanted. First I went to Trbiška Krniška špica past bivouac Gorica all the way to Krniška škrbina, from there continued right on the Normal route all the way to the summit of Trbiška Krniška špica. The path is really well marked with cairns, a bit poorly at the start, then better and better. Climbing to the top is barely II grade.
I descended the way I ascended back to Krniška škrbina and from there continued on the Pot Stoletnice path all the way to the saddle west of Visoka Bela špica and from there also on the Normal route to the summit of Visoka Bela špica. The ascent to Visoka Bela špica seemed considerably more demanding to me, even though there's only 100m of climbing. Climbing there is around II-III grade. The wall is pretty steep too, the view from below on the wall confirms it, rock is quite decent. For descent there are equipped belays, but I didn't need them anyway. Weather was really phenomenal.

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Signposts at the start of the ascent

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m A little before Koča Brunner

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Straight ahead is Krniška škrbina

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Krniška škrbina and start of the Normal Route, the easiest to Trbiška Krniška špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m View of Krniška škrbina

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Quite awkward and dangerous section of the path to Trbiška Krniška špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m A little further on, the path turns right to the summit; from here it is very well marked with cairns

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Already close to the summit

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Summit of Trbiška Krniška špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m View from the summit to Viš

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m View of Visoka Bela špica, where the easiest ascent runs. It runs directly above the col.

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Visoka Bela špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Ascent to Visoka Bela špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m View back on the approach route

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Summit of Visoka Bela špica

Trbiška Krniška špica 2368m and Visoka Bela špica 2257m Already on descent towards the bivouac

(+11)

lijaneja9. 08. 2015 21:33:57

Viper, if you paid attention, someone installed a sling for help (picture 7).
Yes, nice weather we had today. Yesterday on this tour it really soaked me in the last 10 min of descent.

Viper9. 08. 2015 21:35:40

I saw the sling.

lijaneja11. 08. 2015 20:49:52

On Saturday early morning we set off across the border with mates. A bit above Corsijem Naja and Rajko continue towards Viš, me and Akcija towards TKŠ. Weather was promising and I didn't even suspect that the last 10 min of descent would soak me badly. On the return all four of us swam in Rabeljsko Lake.

Kaninsko pogorje from the path to Koča Corsi

There are quite a few small pools along the path

From behind the hut: Viš, Gamsova mati and Turn

View from Krniška škrbina 2180 towards Gorizia bivouacs

Family of ibex just above Krniška škrbina

At the top of TKŠ. Left are Koštrunove špice, Viš is in the fog, right Divja koza 2507

Visoka Bela Špica, right behind Jerebica, far right Rombon

Narrow passage slightly above the entry. Someone installed a sling for assistance.

In front of Gorizia bivouacs. Left of Krniška Škrbina is Rabeljska Krniška Špica 2239m. Through it and along the ridge to VBŠ and down to the bivouacs runs the centenary path. Right is TKŠ.

Above the path between Gorizzio and Brunner

(+8)

mirank11. 08. 2015 21:56:49

Check on ZS

bagi21. 07. 2016 13:05:48

Trbiška Krniška špica ... via the easiest variant

Approach currently summer conditions, so no snow and no need for winter gear. Helmet obligatory of course, no place to use SVK. The route is pristine, wild, unprotected, around UIAA II. Although it's the easiest access, it's far from easy velik nasmeh

.

Marked with veryyy faded red circles, here and there with some slightly misleading arrow zavijanje z očmi

. Cairns help too. Entry from the saddle, or Centenary Path, is a few dozen meters below this saddle to the right, narrower gully. The path to it is visible but unmarked. Later cairns and red marks appear.

Soon we're before a huge closed step (pic 16). Crossing is a bit before it on the left side where marks also appear (pic 17). A bit higher there's a visible anchor with sling for descent, but the route turns left upward already before it. Path then jumps here and there with some narrow crossings, but with enough attention no major problems to the top.

On the Centenary Path in the notch the old, attractive iron ladder unfortunately replaced with ordinary pegs

Trbiška (Krniška) Špica in the foreground

First of the two Gorica bivouacs. Full to the brim

Second of the two Gorica bivouacs. Also full to the brim

Pot Stoletnice, starting in the saddle above the bivouacs towards Visoka Bela ... the path to here is unmarked

New variant of the passage from the notch .... pegs

Previous variant of the passage from the notch .... scramble

On the Stoletnica path. They even wrote this on the cover of the summit logbook

View of Visoka Bela Špica from Rabeljska Špica (along the Stoletnica path)

Trbiška Špica up close ... we're heading up there

End of Stoletnica. Descent to WW1 positions

Helmet is necessary, the trenches don't end anytime soon

Start of the ascent to Trbiška špica. The route goes in the RIGHT gully.

Before this jump we stop. The crossing is along the ledge on the left side approx. 20 m before the jump.

This is the crossing point before the jump. After the notch a steep ledge goes right upwards, markers also appear.

Another narrow passage which is not difficult.

View back from the path to the Corsi hut.

In this ridge runs the famous Anita Goitan path.

Mountaineer Anita Goitan, after whom the path in the ridges above the hut is named.

(+8)

dprapr24. 08. 2017 08:13:02

The title also mentions VBŠ, but once a year was enough. More often only the peaks above Matkov kot attract me. nasmeh

For yesterday's approach we chose the Trincea gully (?), which branches off the King's Path and higher crosses meadows into the gully leading to the notch at Visoka Bela špica.
The ambience in this area is something special. Although the path is marked with red dots (unnecessary), it's a pleasure to scramble over boulders and passages in the gully. Only one part is more crumbly, where there are drilled bolts as additional protection option.
In the upper part, where the "path" crosses to another gully, I turned into a cavity in the gully before the left crossing and found an exit in its upper part. Great passage!
We continued on the Centenary Path and on to Krniška špica. The ascent to Krniška špica seems better to me in the lower part directly up the gully (under the jammed boulder), upper part rock is excellent anyway.
Descended past Gorizia bivouacs.
Another day for the soul.

Morning view from the parking lot on the approach direction.

At the second major gully we turn off the path. The branch is marked.

Up it, first through scree on the right.

In the next gully leading to the notch at VBŠ.

To the cave where there is an exposed traverse left.

Like moles they crawled onto the plateau.

Through the trench on the Stoletnica path.

A little more exploration on the ledges where soldiers' quarters were.

View towards two giants, Mangart and Jalovec.

Coexistence that some circles do not like.

Another chamois appeared near bivouac Gorizia.

(+10)

palček plezalček19. 08. 2018 11:39:55

A thought struck me to combine two trips that had been planned for a while. Quite late I head towards Beli potok valley/Rio Bianco. At the starting point lots of cars, but no one on the path to Brunner. At the hut I turn left onto the King's Path. Water really doesn't lack here, its tireless action is reflected in the path too, which picturesquely ascends and descends crossing slopes towards Corsio. In places undercut, but no problems as they've installed wire where possible.
At the hut I hear summer-mountain bustle. Mostly Slovenian and Italian are heard. Hmm, might sound unusual, but first time I stopped at Corsio and had a cappuccino, then continued towards Trbiška Krniška špica.
Some 10 elevation meters below the saddle I turn left, which didn't prove the most optimal variant, as up the gully it's harder than crossing on the cairned pathlet I discovered on return. Lower part more crumbly than upper, quite some cairns, but they seem lost in space as you see them all around wherever you turn.

A bit higher the mists were frolicking and playing

Here I take this path towards Trbiška Krniška špica

Mojzes thoughtfully waits under the cloud cover

First bivy sack, later I come across another one

Wherever you look, cairns are everywhere

(+6)

matic47. 07. 2019 08:33:47

To the gully for Trbiška špica there are two entry options: first from saddle over cluttered ledges, exposed crossing takes us quite high into gully (loop at end). Second entry ca 50m lower, already well before saddle we cross left over passages into gully, this crossing less exposed. In gully follow cairns and red dots, steeply left out of gully over several cluttered steps to well visible pathlet, then right along passages back into gully. This avoids harder spots in gully. Follows ascent over steep scree, before notch right, to summit scramble in good rock.

(+2)

jax7. 07. 2019 11:43:54

Just to chime in - one of the remaining three who were up there yesterday mežikanje

Actually a third entry possible - even lower down right at the exit from gully, where there's also faded mark for branch. But there it's such that across boulders in gully to shelf junction is nasty, so better from start left of gully and nose-led search passages on slope to plateau with cairns where variants join.
Would also warn about section above mentioned plateau, as here imo quite nasty orientation loop. First from some notchlet (red line) up and through chimney to shelf, here's the problem. Natural passage shows right towards gully (cairn, belay with yellow prusik), maybe left possible too, but both wrong. From this shelf straight up over steep wall which higher closes into sort of chimney. Yes there's also faded red dot there, but easily overlooked, while cairn and belay pull right. In reality straight up over that steep wall soon gets easier, right in gully soon deal with some very tricky, especially extremely loaded jumps.
Otherwise I really liked the tour. If you like scree and scrambling, it's not that hard as long as you don't miss the route. If you do, it gets complicated quickly. And better not rely too much on red dots, as they're very faded and easily missed.

ločanka7. 07. 2019 11:52:41

what about some pic nasmeh

(+1)

jax7. 07. 2019 12:01:52

I don't have pics from that spot, so there won't be any. Could attach a panorama, but - honestly - others already posted nicer ones mežikanje

rozka1. 09. 2019 22:33:18

Well, with four enthusiasts all craving a new summit, it's hard to pick one tour. At least one will have stood on the top already at least 1x velik nasmeh

We meet in Jezerska dolina and heavy legs, read lack of caffeine eek

, bite on the not steep path in Beli potok valley to koča Brunner, and further to biwak Gorizia. Real battles were between head and legs, but only to the saddle, then you have to stretch a bit over Pot Stoletnice and that dizzying descent and ascent on scree woke me up mežikanje

. Then over the trench, slight descent towards koča Corsi, where on the right we already look for some mark or cairn for ascent to Trbiška Krniška špica. Marks very poorly visible, cairns scattered, so we were careful for best passages, especially in initial part. Higher where path turns right and up the "gully", no more difficulties to the top.
Unfortunately no views, fog dominated that day. Descent was also messy, especially the last part where we descended a bit our own way.
Rock excellent, path uninsured and since poorly marked, you can soon "bite off" too big a chunk, or watch co-hikers doing various splits and gymnastic exercises jezik

We continued the path to koča Corsi which is closed for renovation, but there's a nicely arranged biwak behind the hut, and via 629 to the junction for Saški Kralj, where we descended back to start via path 650.
Another great day with excellent company where laughter wasn't lacking nasmeh

.
19.08.019

the valley of Beleg potok offers huge possibilities for tours

in the tunnel without a light it doesn't go

somewhere in these apparently impassable walls the path Anita Goitan is hidden

right to Višarsko planina, right into Jezersko valley

(+7)

jbv6. 07. 2020 19:27:02

5.7.2020 Visoka Bela špica and Trbiška Krniška špica

Approach to Zgornja škrbina Belega potoka (Forcella Alta di Riobianco) as Drago before us, up the Trincea gully (Canale della Trincea). Turned into scree too early and got a bit lost, but quickly found the right path or gully. Easy scrambling between, on and under boulders all the way to the saddle. Then ascent on normal path to VBŠ and of course descent same way. Continued the tour over Male špice or on Pot Stoletnice to Trbiška škrbina. From the saddle then also to TKŠ, only really nasty spot is that exposed ledge where there's a long prusik installed, but still can be problematic. Apart from unbearable heat on the path no peculiarities, pure enjoyment from morning to evening. cool

Wrote some more verses HERE velik nasmeh

Italian without mask, but at safe distance.

Sunlit towers but I'm still in the shade

As I wrote, even under boulders it's possible :)

Quite a few drilled pegs and also belay for descent

(+7)

funnyboy10. 09. 2020 20:31:44

This world above Jezerska dolina is beautiful... velik nasmeh

http://primozgraheljsblog.blogspot.com/2020/09/visoka-bela-spica-2257-m-in-trbiska.html

(+2)

miri11. 09. 2020 20:19:07

Did you play any on guitar in the biwak? nasmeh

If not, I'll send you a "musician". velik nasmeh

(+1)

funnyboy11. 09. 2020 20:49:11

Miri, I'm not zavijanje z očmi

Next time

miri11. 09. 2020 22:06:14

To hear that one.

(+1)

funnyboy12. 09. 2020 17:12:31

Hehe, that one surely knows velik nasmeh

mirank12. 09. 2020 20:08:21

Those rockers from Idrija velik nasmeh

(+1)

redbull12. 10. 2020 20:20:47

VBŠ-T.Krniška Š.-Viš (10.10.20)

At 5.30 we started hiking towards Koča Brunner and were already at bivouac Gorizia in daylight. Snow was only scattered towards the saddle of the notch before entering the easiest variant of V. Bele špice. Below, where the cairn is, is the Klug-Stahl route, which will be feasible in warmer months (next year). This ascent is not difficult and you get up quickly. We descended back by rope, although it could be done without. We continue on the Centenary path and from Krniška notch via the lower variant to Trbiška Krniška špica. The upper part was more snowy, nothing too extreme. Return lower along the upper ledge (1* fixed rope, exposed). Follows Anita Goitan path, traverse paths snowy with southern snow. Friend towards Corsi, I additionally did the ascent to Viš. Crampons not needed, except ice axe for support or safer ascent. Descent to preduh to light a candle. Lower I catch up with friend and together we go down the Saxon King path to the valley. Nice beautiful, warm day. Conditions won't be the same anymore.