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List of forums / Slovenia / Alpine ascents / Turn pod Razorjem

Turn pod Razorjem

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dprapr21. 06. 2013 22:44:01
Today three "veterans" (together 180 years) climbed one of the harder to access two-thousanders here, Turn under Razor. The oldest already knew the peak, for my brother and me it was a new adventure.
We started at Vršič and approached the foot of the peak on the path to Razor. We ascended it from the east. Difficult mainly in the upper part, where there's a fairly smooth wall. Otherwise pictures say more!
Turn pod Razorjem Morning at Vršič.1
Turn pod Razorjem We can observe it for some time already.2
Turn pod Razorjem It tries to hide from us in the mists.3
Turn pod Razorjem Stražar below it.4
Turn pod Razorjem In the first part of Turn pod Razorjem.5
Turn pod Razorjem The upper part looks very smooth from below.6
Turn pod Razorjem From above it's somewhat different.7
Turn pod Razorjem Towards the summit.8
Turn pod Razorjem At the summit.9
Turn pod Razorjem The wall is already known to him.10
Turn pod Razorjem The summit too!11
Turn pod Razorjem Today it welcomed us, perhaps it will again sometime.12
Turn pod Razorjem Alpine giants below Ajdovska deklica.13
Turn pod Razorjem Ajdovska deklica.14
Turn pod Razorjem View of Turn from the ridge between Gubni and Dovški Gamsovec...(Photo: Vinko P.)15
Turn pod Razorjem (Approximate) view from Krnica.16
(+14)like
Irina21. 06. 2013 23:07:11
Congratulations! And where is the group photo?
(+1)like
mukica22. 06. 2013 05:56:06
congrats...beeeeautifulnasmeh
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CarpeDiem24722. 06. 2013 10:18:10
Interesting spire nasmeh
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dprapr22. 06. 2013 17:30:35
Thanks!
There's not much space at the summit for a group photo!
Last year's zoomed shot from Dimnikovi.1
(+1)like
jlapanja18. 11. 2016 16:56:56
Since there was less time in summer to browse the forum, this time I'll describe another ascent, although it's already four months since the trip to TURN UNDER RAZOR.
With my colleague we've already covered practically almost all two-thousanders, some harder ones remained for us and among them was the mentioned TURN.
From stories of some mountaineers and some photos we finally got info where this spire is. It really has a wild appearance, interesting for two-thousander collectors but few climb it.
Considering we maintain fitness constantly we believed we can do it.With help of a more experienced climber-alpinist, we decided to pull it off.
When we got help from an experienced 60-year-old, on July 12, 2016 we set off from Vršič along the path to Razor to the saddle of Mlinarice.Before the branch to Razor we turned left on pathless scree towards TURN. That scree is known mainly to ski tourers where in good winter conditions you can ski to the road hut on Vršič road.
After less than 3 hours we reached the notch of TURN, bypassed it and looked to the Kranjska side (east side).That was also the starting point to prepare for the first pitch, about 30m high. Difficulty started with II then over chimney harder from III to IV to first belay.After short rest and prep for second pitch (again 30m) we continued climbing, which was significantly harder. Here the wall of TURN goes vertical, climbing difficulty doesn't let up and stays evenly at IV. In both pitches we managed to find only one old peg and one auxiliary sling at belay from predecessors, who couldn't have been many.
On happy descent (two rope rappels) our eyes lit up and our helper was also happy with the ascent, as he was also first time on TURN UNDER RAZOR.

LET ME SAY AT THE END THAT WE CLIMBED TURN THREE RETIREES AGED 69, 67 AND 60 YEARS, (TOTAL 196 YEARS) SO SUCCESS IS EVEN GREATER AND PROOF THAT EVEN AT THIS AGE YOU CAN OVERCOME A LOT, IF WILL, PHYSICAL FITNESS AND OF COURSE HEALTH WHICH IS PREREQUISITE AND MOUNTAINEERS WANT THAT MOST, AS WE NEVER GET ENOUGH OF LOOKING AT OUR MOST BEAUTIFUL PEAKS.
Although fog hindered us on ascent to TURN, I'll send some pics later, which won't be the best due to bad conditions in nature. Best regards Jure.
On the path from Vršič towards Razor1
That's how the fog around Turn scared us2
At the start for the first pitch (with a little nervousness)3
Rest and waiting for Milan's command to climb the second more difficult pitch4
In battle with fog and the last meters of the TURNA wall pitch towards the summit5
When I am at the belay I will be the winner (at the top there is space for only one)6
(+11)like
dprapr18. 11. 2016 18:01:05
If the mentioned old peg is on the ledge before the slab in second pitch, it's been there only three years.mežikanje
You "jeseničani" from Igluj age quickly.zmeden
But there are probably two pegs on top from our first ascenders, J.O. and J.V.

(+2)like
jlapanja18. 11. 2016 18:26:22
The mentioned peg might really be yours, we didn't bother to knock it out, for the other two I admit I already forgot-
Best J.
(+3)like
lijaneja18. 11. 2016 21:49:08
All respect and congrats on conquering this spire, also to Drago's team from three years ago. Obviously this peak is reserved only for mature men. In Jure's case he'd reach the "norm" only in 5 years, so I still have plenty of time velik nasmeh
(+6)like
Shkaro15. 11. 2020 15:29:14
Yesterday we climbed this wonderful peak that thrilled us. Our fingers are still frozen nasmeh Start at Vršič, under Turn in about 3 hours. Our biggest problem was access gully covered with thin layer of new snow. Caught some sun at saddle under Turn, but the rock of Turn itself in shade and very cold. First pitch ok, rock cold and bit snowy, bit crumbly before upper chimney. There second pitch scared us as it was also snowy. Didn't wait long but started second pitch right away as fingers on feet and hands froze. When wanted to place friend in rock, found peg there. Second pitch quite crumbly, especially middle part where fist-sized rocks stayed in hand. Found 3 pegs in rock, used 2. At top abseil stand and after quick two pics at top we abseiled down. See two new slings at top, so no need to leave anything. After second abseil back to packs, put on crampons and ran down to Mlinarice in sun nasmeh Nice day in Julian Alps with few people ... have to repeat ascent when at least a bit warmer nasmeh
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We also leave the marked path towards Razor and climb up the gully towards Turn7
Gully sprinkled with fresh snow8
We didn't walk in the middle of the gully, but on its left side along the rocks9
Wonderful views from the saddle under Turn10
First pitch, upper chimney III-IV11
The two of us on the terrace after the first pitch12
Second pitch, near the first peg13
Upper steeper part of the second pitch14
Upper steeper part of the second pitch15
near the summit16
View from the top on the second pitch17
Filip at the top :)18
Me at the top :)19
Abseil from the top20
Abseil of the first pitch21
On descent we put on crampons and kicked steps in the snow in the gully22
Another beauty under the Razor wall...Lešarjev zob23
Path above Mlinarica, which leads back to Vršič24
In the morning we lost 200m of elevation here, so we had to make up for it here :)25
Filip on Sovna glava. Behind him beautiful and mighty Prisojnik26
We concluded an excellent ascent, which we started in the morning at Vršič ... altogether it took us about 8 and a half hours27
(+17)like
dprapr15. 11. 2020 16:22:12
Bless you both.
I wish you that.nasmeh
(+6)like
lijaneja15. 11. 2020 16:28:13
Super, you two handled this spire, Antonio. Definitely, the ascent to it has much more weight, because you did it in cold and even snowy rock. For me, conquering this beauty remains just a pious wish.
Good luck further!
(+3)like
Shkaro15. 11. 2020 16:40:40
Drago, thanks for the first description, because we managed this ascent more easily nasmeh Tone, I have no doubt that in the right team this ascent would go without problems for you mežikanje
(+4)like
Dr.ejči15. 11. 2020 17:26:17
Congrats for the (ad)venture, but at the same time wondering...????...who in this country is crazy???

btw just "planted", because returned from local hillock, and even that in neighboring municipality, because in JA, KSA, KA, "state doesn't give", not even daring to Krim, given that yesterday apparently still "pissing" on Orle, today through Tivoli and Rožnik!!!!!!, where enduro bikers shredded my nerves!!!..

p.s. just wanted one beer, in peace, to sleep velik nasmeh
(+19)like
Mcgiver15. 11. 2020 17:58:15
Dr.ejči, I also wonder that......zavijanje z očmi

Otherwise Shkaro congrats!!!!
(+6)like
redbull15. 11. 2020 21:30:04
Super Filip&Antonio
Good luck
(+4)like
Dr_Ursic16. 11. 2020 10:05:30
Masterfully velik nasmeh
(+3)like
parenzo16. 11. 2020 13:04:47
Congratulations!
Masters of movement in mountains and artistic photos.
Good luck!
(+3)like
Shkaro17. 11. 2020 21:08:29
Thanks everyone ... I didn't intend to highlight the current health policy topic, but wanted to show Tower below Razor, how we had the honor to see and climb it. I sincerely hope the current situation calms down and you all can enjoy your wonderful hills ... and me with youmežikanje
(+9)like
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