Turnc - help with orientation
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| vrh12314. 09. 2019 14:33:39 |
Hello,
today my dad and I climbed at Turnc. Even with the sport climbing guide I couldn't orient myself on which sector we were actually climbing. I think it's not necessary to add that we're newbies.
Can someone tell me what the sector with the bench is called, the one closest to the parking (well, it's not really a parking lot, but you probably know what I mean), from which you go to Grmada via Pogačnikova path? So from the parking we go towards Pogačnikova, then turn right on the wide path and walk to the bench on our left.
We climbed there and one rock (sector?) to the left, so on the outer side of the rock, where inside there are the stairs (Pogačnikova).
Thanks in advance for all the help.
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| Lamps14. 09. 2019 20:39:54 |
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| nenap14. 09. 2019 20:57:05 |
Garderoba  Regards N
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| Macesna14. 09. 2019 21:25:18 |
Hi,
the sector with the bench is Garderoba, the rock on the left you mention is Mali Turnc.
Nice climbing, regards
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| vrh12315. 09. 2019 11:25:15 |
Excellent, thanks for all the help.
By the look of the rock it seemed to me like Garderoba, but I wasn't sure because I thought the whole crag doesn't extend that far to the left, but that it starts there at Pogačnikova with sector A.
In the sport climbing guide sectors A (Pod Westrovo potjo), B (Kovačev turnc) and C (Ačkov turnc) are together, then there's quite a gap between C and D, E, F and G (which are close again).
Can someone tell how to get to sectors A, B and C? At the place where you would enter Pogačnikova via stairs, turn left (there was some path, but overgrown) or do you have to go along the asphalt road to Kovač inn or start of Westrova and then somewhere right or something like that?
And one last question, since I can't quite imagine how far the whole crag extends: how far is J (Beli raz), the last sector on the far right?
If you continue straight on the wide path that leads to Garderoba on the left, you come to some hut or rental space (next to volleyball net, if I'm not mistaken). If the hut is on the right, on the left, if memory serves, there's a clearing or rocks again. Is Beli raz already somewhere there or do you have to go further? I can't imagine based on the sketch in the sport climbing guide.
Thanks for such quick and good response.
Best regards
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| Macesna17. 09. 2019 23:38:07 |
Hi,
yes, the sketch in the guide is very symbolic, you have to find it yourself ...
To sectors B and C you go right from the start of Pogačnikova - where there's a red alpine sign on the tree with the path name, a worse, overgrown path branches left, all the time traverse and quite far. Haven't been to sector A yet, but probably continue in the same direction.
To Veliki Turnc (interesting to climb the tower itself from behind, impressive, 4a, chain on top) and to Beli raz you really get from the clearing you mention. But there are several paths and first time you might have to search a bit. Vel. Turnc is approximately straight up, sector Beli raz a bit up, then along the traverse path to the right and slightly up again.
Curious what you'll like best. Some sectors are really nice, others less so. Some places have new bolts, others still old (just a warning). Beli raz is, if I remember correctly, fairly new, same as Garderoba of course.
Good luck and have fun.
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| jax18. 09. 2019 14:52:47 |
Anyway, my experience is that there's no point wasting too much time with Turnc. Hopelessly equipped, polished, weird accesses, ugly route starts ... Better somewhere else.
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| Climber9118. 09. 2019 16:54:48 |
I agree with jax. Turnc is hopeless to me. I assume you're a beginner, I recommend Preddvor, nice routes, slabs 
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| Climber9118. 09. 2019 17:00:01 |
Regarding Beli raz - where that wooden hut is, that's the picnic area. From there continue past a larger boulder and walk another 10 minutes through the forest on a worse but visible path. Beli raz is right at the end. From that clearing you mention, go right.
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| Zebdi19. 09. 2019 08:32:10 |
Well, Turnc is Turnc, but Preddvor isn't some pinnacle either. You can climb in both 
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| vrh12319. 09. 2019 21:05:19 |
@Climber91 - I know where the boulder is. So I go around it on the right and continue towards the forest.
@Macesna - Do you remember anything, was that path somewhat safe? Hiking isn't foreign to me at all, but I have no alpine skills to set up protection on steeper parts myself. Anyway: yes, I followed that path, but it got narrower, overgrown, and on the left sheer drop, so I turned back. I think a slip there would end badly. In your memory, is the path to sectors B and C like that?
And to all: which sectors at Turnc would you mark as the friendliest? I mean mainly somewhat normal approach and a comfy belay spot. For example, I don't plan to climb on the inner side of Mali turnec, because belaying on those stairs is uncomfortable and it's all dark and a bit claustrophobic.
In short, which sectors are least like the mentioned inner side of Mali Turnca and most like Garderoba?
And yes, Turnc seems quite neglected, and that's why I like it. Because no arranged parking and it's unclear, there are no people.
But need to be careful. Even in Garderoba, the far left short route (Silvotova, 4b, 8m) has no decent anchor. It's a thin rope tied around a tree and some rotten rope holding it all. I didn't trust it with my weight, so I clipped in, then still downclimbed.
Many thanks again, you're very kind, info is very useful at this point.
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