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Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse)

redbull27. 03. 2021 09:42:26

26.03.21

We started at Peričnik, although we could have somehow made it to where the starting point for Kukova Špica is, if 1m of dry asphalt hadn't run out. The surface was already super in the forest, then just up the gully (hard surface), and joining the normal route. On the scree it was nice again all the way to the bivouac. Couldn't have hit it better. To the glacier it went quite fast, as we alternated up front. The entry chimney for Visoki Rokav is currently great, enough snow and ice in the narrow fissure. For the return we used one abseil. On Dovški Križ conditions were good, snow on the roof maybe only up to 20 cm in places. View into Jugova grapa is great. The ridge to Škrnatarica was also without problems, used rope twice. For the end still the ascent to Škrnatarica. In this glacier we saw tracks for the first time today. Down to the valley went quite fast, all the way through the gully.

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Poldov rovt

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) along the gully, then to the right

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse)

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) some dry terrain feel, everything flew down

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) start of the famous summer scree slope, now hard

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) towards the bivouac

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) key section and I can only say it's exactly the one you could wish for

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Continuation

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) for the return we prepare the rope here already

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) V.Rokav

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) VMP

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) breath-taking ridge, already done

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Kotel

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) there we go

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) first the descent back

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) View back

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) we entered the roof towards SE much earlier on the ascent, instead of going to the path with cairns

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) view from Dovški Križ

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) further along the ridge

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) view into neseba

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) and here we are

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Škrnatarica

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Amfiteater

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) from it to the left

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) ground already some degrees, first time today

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Kukova špica

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) Who doesn't know it

Visoki Rokav-Dovški Križ-Škrnatarica (gr. traverse) down the gully

(+20)

JanG27. 03. 2021 13:54:46

Nice

(+2)

bos27. 03. 2021 15:42:20

Ambitious tour, congratulations!

(+3)

Nejc78727. 03. 2021 19:23:32

Mega tour. Congratulations and good luck!

(+1)

Grega9218. 06. 2021 23:21:08

Yesterday, 17.6.2021 on Visoki Rokav. Up via Brinje, snow starts on screes behind Šplevta. Still lots of snow on Jezerih, same in Rokavski glacier. On to the notch between Rokavs. Snow depth eases entry to initial chimney. To summit without issues, except crumbling smile. Descent by abseil back to notch. Changed prusiks at 3 stations. Then fast descent to bivouac 2 for earned snack and down endless screes to starting smile
Nice and demanding tour