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V.Oltar - D.Križ (ridge traverse)

redbull20. 06. 2021 22:09:41

Snake's tongue - V.Oltar - Dovški Križ - Jugova (19.06.21)

At five we set out from Martuljek towards the kingdom above it. The path to Akom was already hot early on. Snow started right away when we stepped a bit to the left from the gully. It greatly eased the ascent to the three larches; it wasn't soft. There is plenty of water in this part. Above the larches we traverse right into the snake's tongue. In the upper part the snow gradually fades; we still climbed one part on rock anyway, though it wasn't necessary for us. From the saddle to Oltar is a special treat. It was nice, almost no wind. We descend to the flat part, from there we start moderate scrambling towards Dovški Križ. The first ascent to a prominent peak with a big cairn awaited us. We saw it from afar. We looked to the left, but the right variant was still a bit easier. Given the difficulty of these Martuljek ridges, I'd rate it III+. From that peak onwards I didn't think the ridge was so well linked. From afar it looked completely different, with detached rocks, but up close it is more acceptable. Caution due to looseness must be especially good. Jugova was below us, we were already standing on the "normal" route leading to Dovški Križ. On Oltar I made a weird move with my left ankle, so now my leg was in the snow. The left fork of Jugova is nicely accessible, the right one higher up no longer is, since the snow has already sunk in between. Below the larches we more or less slide on snow to the gully. The walk to Martuljek was like wandering in the Sahara. Nice day