| JusAvgustin29. 01. 2010 20:07:16 |
The first time I saw it on the PZS coat of arms I thought "where is this wonderful mountain?", I had no idea it was Jalovec and where it's located. Years flew by, I grew up, became more and more curious, and the hills were no longer foreign to me. It was only last summer that I managed to visit it for the first time with a friend, who due to too fast a pace didn't reach the goal and waited at Kotovo sedlo.
The next idea was Jalovec in winter. I kept this idea to myself for a long time, as it didn't seem possible to me then, especially not alone. Coincidence led to my meeting two—now I can say friends—through the forum, who were immediately up for it. Decision made. Jalovec, before conditions worsen. The trip was carefully planned and prepared, I show respect to Jalovec in just the right measure, not too much, not too little. Just right to reach the summit and descend to the valley.
We set off at 5:05 from Planica, reached the Tamar hut in 35 minutes, headed past the house following Jalovec markers. Walking by moonlight was pleasant, only disturbed by the headlamp of a touring skier who was racing behind us. Time to the entrance to Jalovec couloir passed extremely quickly, as we admired the first morning dawn and the dance of shadows on the walls of Vevnica and Kotova špica. Walking through the Couloir was completely something else. Although the ascent looks short, it was as long as Monday, but still we reached the exit from the Couloir in relatively short time. At the top of the Couloir we took a deserved 15-minute rest, then headed towards Jalovec summit through the so-called winter chimney. There the path steeply ascends towards Jalovec summit ridge, the summit itself is another 5 minutes from that point. We didn't stay long at the summit, due to wind blowing over 50 km/h and temperature -19 degrees. The wind chill was -29 degrees Celsius. We conquered the summit, followed by the most complicated part of the trip—the descent. Most accidents happen on descent, so concentration was at peak. There followed an adrenaline descent down the extremely exposed traverse and gully back to the top of the Couloir, then descent through Couloir back down. Soon we arrived at the place where we put on crampons in the morning, from there to Tamar just leisurely strolling. The trip will be etched in our memory forever, not because of ascent difficulty, dangerous traverses, climbing in chimney etc., but simply because it's magnificent. Strongly recommend to all who have at least a spark of alpine spirit and who are capable of it.
Conditions: track is made from hut to Couloir, Couloir is like ratracked (hard base, no slush), further conditions vary. In winter chimney ideal, on normal winter approach partly post-holing. Ridge trodden, traverse hard. Personally recommend two ice axes and climbing crampons (winter chimney), belay not needed, can solo. Winter chimney iced, no steps, partly icy, in short super climbing fun.
Walking time: Planica-Tamar 35 minutes
Tamar-Couloir 3 hours 30 minutes
Couloir-Jalovec Summit 50 minutes
Summit-Tamar 3 hours 5 minutes
Times are for information only.
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
| (+1) |  | |
|
|