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List of forums / Slovenia / General talks / Winter ascents above 2000 meters

Winter ascents above 2000 meters

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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 20:41:33
Opening one of the tougher topics and hope that you others will also join in and contribute your past experiences.
For the ones listed below winter gear is mandatory, the easiest is Raduha.
Other less promising winter summits: Prisank, Razor, Pihavec, etc... are very difficult.

1.Begunjščica:
Starting point Ljubelj via one of the gullies

2.Vrtača:
Y gully, other approaches are not used

3.Storžič:
Starting point Mače, past Kališče and to the top, descent by the arrival route.

4.Špik:
Starting point Pišnica via Kačji graben, if more snow it sinks a lot.

5.Stol:
Starting point Valvasorjev dom via Žirovniška path

6.Grintovec:
Starting point V koncu to Kokrsko sedlo and to the top

7.Peca:
Starting point Podpeca

8.Raduha:
Starting point Radušnik

9.Viševnik and Veliki draški vrh:
Starting point Rudno polje by the ski slope and to the top, if conditions allow can continue to Veliki draški vrh

10.Debela peč:
Starting point planina Zajavornik

11.Mala Mojstrovka:
Starting point probably Koča na Gozdu, if Vršič road is passable.

12.Krn:
Starting point planina Kuhinja

13.Triglav:
Krma: now road not plowed to end, only past Kredarica and to top.

14.Stenar/Križ:
Starting point Vrata, when stable snow for longer via Stenarska vratca

15.Jalovec
Starting point Planica via Ozebnik and to top

16.Kočna, when already less snow, because otherwise can't go far, starting point Suhadolnik via Grdi graben

17. Turski žleb-Turska gora or Koroška Rinka, starting point Logarska dolina.

18. Brana, starting point Kamniška bistrica via Kamniško sedlo, Brana in the past required numerous fatalities, due to falls below summit, one of the accidents I observed last year from below Rinka.

etc
Before each mountain I put a number, so you can describe your approaches, experiences. As I observed various gullies they go only in spring, when no major danger.

But pointless to go anywhere over 2000m if no conditions.
Winter ascents above 2000 meters A fairly well-trodden trail by those who only went as far as Kališče.1
Winter ascents above 2000 meters Further on from Kališče.2
Winter ascents above 2000 meters Below Storžič, two ahead of me, the most tedious part.3
Winter ascents above 2000 meters Summit reached.4
Winter ascents above 2000 meters At the summit of Storžič.5
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 20:49:31
Špik
Start before the Pišnica bridge, it's better below if there's not much snow, because there's a climbing section.1
Through Kačji graben, here and lower down it can sink deeply, trail breaking is needed and it can take considerable strength.2
Below Špik, there wasn't much snow here.3
And on the summit, where it was also very cold.4
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 20:55:54
Stol
Up to here it's quite fun in winter, the road is sometimes icy.1
Below Stol.2
On the summit of Stol.3
There was a track to Stol.4
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 20:59:50
Grintovec
Starting point.1
Roof of Grintovec.2
Summit.3
Below Kokrsko sedlo, demanding ascent and descent, happens when snow turns to rain up to around 2000 m and freezes.4
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IgorZlodej11. 11. 2013 21:02:07
@LG*As I've observed myself, they go for various couloirs only in spring when there's no greater danger*.
More towards end of winter or spring people go through couloirs because then most are nicely filled and jumps easier passable. But that then there's no greater danger (snow avalanches) of course doesn't hold, because that's when there are most.
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 21:12:52
Mala Mojstrovka
Vršič, as Zlodej wrote, I meant March not June, since meteorological spring starts in March too.1
Here up through the gate.2
A bit more.3
View down.4
There was a track, and plenty of visits too.5
Ascent to Velika Mojstrovka.6
From the summit of Mala Mojstrovka.7
8
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 21:21:03
Kočni
This part is good that it's hard-packed, I went on this tour with 4 others, but I would never go alone.1
View back to the gully, soon we'll be at Kokrska Kočna.2
Kočna looked quite hard-packed but it wasn't.3
Kokrska Kočna - Jezerska Kočna, very exposed traverse.4
If this is not exposed.5
Descent from Jezerska kočna.6
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ljubitelj gora11. 11. 2013 21:27:30
Triglav
Krma, the starting point, no longer plowed recently.1
On New Year's track hard to miss, no sinking, even on this slope at 2-3° very dangerous, avalanche has buried many here, Rut is gone forever.2
Everything was trampled and skied over.3
At Kredarica on 1.1.4
Some returning to the valley on 1.1.5
Ascent to Triglav, solo.6
Windy, poles visible.7
Exposed in some places.8
At the summit.9
As I already mentioned, the ridge is exposed in places, the most difficult is the descent from Mali Triglav, because the snow softens in the afternoon.10
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ljubitelj gora12. 11. 2013 14:07:26
Turski couloir - Koroška Rinka - Štajerska Rinka.
I drive into Logarska dolina and continue driving as far as possible.1
At Rinka waterfall there was a track further on, but with more snow almost impassable.2
On Okrešelj with view of the start of Turski žleb, summit ridge of Turska gora and right the top of Mala Rinka.3
This snow block broke off, slope not enough, higher up better conditions.4
Towards the saddle, without skis you wouldn't get far.5
Track from predecessors in Turski žleb, reach first cables, meet experienced who turns back (conditions not great but not bad).6
In Turski žleb, backtracked, some continued, practiced with ice axe before descending.7
Top of gully, avalanche from Mrzla gora, sun power. Wind slab snow visible that could release under load.8
To Turska gora, shorter than to Rinke.9
On Koroška Rinka, Skuta to the left.10
Skuta, Kranjska Rinka (hardest among Rinkas).11
On Rinka then back approach direction, winter best stick 100% to plan.12
Velika Baba descent from saddle to Austrian side with avalanches, even with less snow slid but up to 1m snow on this side.13
Rinke from Mala Rinka, little snow on Rinkas.14
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ljubitelj gora12. 11. 2013 14:35:22
Krn
Krn village.1
Start at Planina Kuhinja, little snow, danger level 1.2
Little snow.3
There was a track.4
From the summit.5
Second time same day, conditions changed in 2-3h (late pm), before no crampons needed, here hard without crampons/ice axe.6
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ljubitelj gora14. 11. 2013 13:16:18
Igor about gullies when is best, what dangers, ropes in gully, I wouldn't know much to say, because I don't have 2 climbing ice axes, rope, also haven't gone to any alpinist school where I'd learn from instructors. Better focused on practice in terrain, observing what others do, what happens with snow during day, what dangers, cold, wind, windblown snow, thaw, rain, ice, holes....Anyway didn't mean gullies in June, but around March, when meteorological spring starts, some thaw comes and snow compacts a bit, everything more filled as you said. Somehow think later when bigger thaw after winter in mountains it's even worse, release slab avalanches, but not so fast. Once unknowingly triggered one and observed it.
Anyway good to hear from others what advice they have about gullies. But to me not much clear about these ropes in gully, if one falls pulls all down and consequently someone below them. Only once roped up with two other mountaineers but immediately thought what if someone falls we all fly down three and went my way, they theirs. Best remember picture from someone who made anchor and belayed each separately.


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viharnik14. 11. 2013 17:07:51
LG, just with theory you can't become an experienced mountaineer. There are many ways to secure yourself in a certain situation, so forget it and rather stick to normal mountaineering. With wrong securing you're actually more endangered than you might think you are safe.
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DarjaZaplotnik14. 11. 2013 19:01:37
Regarding your @viharnik general theorizing, could you please explain the term "normal mountaineering".

Otherwise LG securing in snow is really a bit tricky thing (as you've obviously realized yourself) and requires quite some knowledge and also ingenuity. You can look up and read in literature used in Alpinist schools. Best is to attend one or some winter technique course. Guaranteed you'll get all answers to your questions.

best d nasmeh
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viharnik14. 11. 2013 19:47:50
Normal mountaineering or usual, not alpinism
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Becar14. 11. 2013 20:03:43
I think we all understood what viharnik meant by normal mountaineering in this context. Or not?
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ljubitelj gora14. 11. 2013 20:10:20
Of course normal classic approaches like say to Begunjščica via gully or to Vrtača via Y gully. Or classic approach in winter conditions to Triglav via Kredarica.
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DarjaZaplotnik14. 11. 2013 21:24:56
LG, for some gullies you list it's generally good to have two ice axes. Doesn't have to be exactly climbing ones. Classics are ok too.
Otherwise all these little gullies in good conditions get quite a bit of traffic. And in reality in such crowd some unpleasant situation can happen quickly.

(+2)like
ljubitelj gora15. 11. 2013 11:18:11
Maybe useful for someone, ascent to Begunjščica, Vrtača or just walk to hut at Zelenica. Forest path used for food delivery in summer is in winter to the hut very dangerous in unsuitable snow conditions. In past I've heard, seen and experienced live warning above these slopes.
The year before last two of us went to Zelenjak but ski resort worker came towards us and warned us, of course I didn't understand why. Everything was so nicely filled almost fresh and in forest. When we went on that road it didn't seem dangerous to us but just one day later big avalanche flew onto that road, just one day later I'd go up same time and wouldn't be anymore. Same story when suddenly warms in mountains numerous slab avalanches trigger, but not so fast.
When it's level 3 this road under the hut is closed, due to the right steep slope which slides easily, avalanches have already claimed lives1
if you're stubborn ... it's not the only one2
such a sign from now on, at this level shown I don't head to the mountains, maybe to nearby Blegoš in the afternoon but even there it's dangerous with more snow3
that's it on the right side towards the hut under the ridge from the gully to Begunjščica it's well visible4
and railings GRZS, PZS....5
old picture judging by it conditions are quite good probably level 1.6
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Po Hodnik14. 01. 2025 21:43:24
I'll borrow this thread. I completed a winter mountaineering course, did some guided tours, but I'm interested in how you approach winter tours, i.e., how you check if the snow is suitable, safe. Right now it's level 3 and I see a ton of high mountain visits. Snow profile and avalanche bulletin are clear to me, but I lack these experiences. Especially interested in your view on target selection before you can test the base.

I'd gladly join some team of slightly more experienced hikers/mountaineers. Due to variable schedule waiting for organized hikes by PD is a bit hard.
(+1)like
Behemot24. 01. 2025 10:59:31
Looking for company for winter approaches above 2,000 m in Slovenia and Austria
(+1)like
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