|
| mdenac14. 08. 2022 20:25:32 |
Today I treated myself to some exploring in the Prisank ridge on a wonderful Sunday. The main goals were the eastern summit of the Zvoniki and Zadnji Prisank, before that I also climbed Kraj sten and of course Prisank. I finished the tour with an ascent to Mali Razor, which has its own thread, so I'll post a few pics from it there.
I started from Vršič and went along the ridge almost to the front window, then to the ridge to the Kraj sten summit. As also later for ascents to Zvoniki and Zadnji Prisank, I followed the description from Marijan & Marko, so: if you ever read this, biggest thanks and hats off  From the summit of Prisank I descended to the start of the Jubilee path and traversed most of the part under Zvoniki towards Kajzeljeva škrbina. I climbed to the ridge at the place where left of the path there's a prominent buttress, right upward some simple broken gully. As for the ascent to Zvoniki itself I won't repeat the mentioned description too much (pics and some comment will probably be more useful), but the thing is really quite gnarly and surely much easier if you rappel on descent. The gullies are well equipped, I found three stances sufficient for all tricky spots. The first gully has a cairn after ca. 5 m, at the top entering the second long one another is placed. A nicely visible cairn is also under the rock barrier just below the summit, where there are two variants (direct, supposedly II+, and right ledge - II). I went up direct over the loaded and crumbly step, on descent it didn't appeal and I went on the ledge bypassing that step on the north side. It was much easier for me and if I went again I'd go up there too.
At Zadnji Prisank it's exactly the opposite - only difficulties right at the start, the ridge is completely easy. I headed from the path right up immediately at the end of the first horizontal cable after Kajzeljeva škrbina and climbed one slightly annoying step, then along some ledge and wide gentler gully to the ridge. The ridge is easy, but I didn't go quite to the end because chamois with young were sleeping there. Prisank is already riddled with paths, I climbed into one of the rare quiet corners around. So I settled somewhere midway on the ridge where a cairn is placed and the highest point was visible. I descended along the approach route and traversed further on Jubilee to the second window.
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
| (+8) |  | |
|
|
|
|
| lijaneja14. 08. 2022 21:22:25 |
Super picture of eastern Zvonik from frog perspective (pic. 21). Looks really steep, but right there solid rock and the route isn't much more demanding than e.g. descent from Staničev vrh towards Zeleniške špice. True I climbed it in '03 when I was a bit younger
Shame you didn't try western Zvonik too, you climb to it from west and it's much easier than the eastern.
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
|
| mdenac14. 08. 2022 22:11:22 |
Yes, at the end I was also a bit sorry I didn't tackle that one, but at least motivation to go back here sometime. Maybe combine it with that tower/molehill that I'd also gladly get to know closer 
| (+1) | | |
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.