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List of forums / Spain / Other mountain ranges - Spain / Camino Invierno - Winter Path

Camino Invierno - Winter Path

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bagi27. 05. 2022 06:25:44
Camino Invierno is one of those Spanish paths that surprised me the most. First, because it's a detour from Camino Frances and I expected much more visitors. There weren't any, altogether we met only six pilgrims. Secondly, because it's an exceptionally beautiful path, well routed and excellently equipped with markers. Completely different from expectations. I imagined a similar landscape as on the French route. How wrong I was, to our luck nasmeh.

Camino Invierno is an old pilgrims' connection from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela mainly in months when the highest passes of Camino Frances are still under snow. To Santiago we walk 270 km and 6,500 m of ascent. The junction for it is in Ponferrada and right at the start a welcome stone with the path's name greets you. Further on there are more than enough of these markers and kilometer signs to Santiago are standard here. In the following days the landscape constantly changes and often it's a real feast for the eyes. Not much asphalt, roads are mostly side roads and traffic-free. In the final part Camino Invierno joins Camino Sanabres in the town of Laxe (KLIK). From there to Santiago it's not far, the entry direction is completely unburdened by 100 km walkers. Whoever has walked towards Santiago from Lugo direction knows what I mean zavijanje z očmi.

For us Camino Invierno was a logical continuation after the just walked Camino Olvidado (KLIK). The common point was Ponferrada, where we took time for rest, restocking and laundry. After morning coffee we set off in light rain towards the start of our path. On the way we met quite a few sleepy pilgrims hurrying on the most crowded French path. What a contrast to what we experienced in the following days. On the whole Invierno we didn't meet as many as just here in Ponferrada.

In the following days we often asked ourselves which Camino is actually more beautiful ... the just walked Olvidado or Invierno which surprised us day by day. Many times the scales tipped to its side, though both are beautiful. And to avoid misunderstanding ... accommodations are sparingly allocated here too, same as refreshment stops. Still, more albergues and well-marked path pay off. Why we met so few pilgrims on this path will remain an eternal riddle for me nasmeh.

Some current news from Santiago de Compostela (May 2022) ...

The cathedral is finally renovated, both outside and inside. Backpacks have been banned for long, but many leave them at the entrance next to the guard. Entrance is side, main doors closed. Number of visitors limited, so during tourist rush you can easily stay outside. We visited the cathedral on the last day at 8.30 am and I've never seen such an empty cathedral nasmeh. For mass better come at least half hour earlier, because after certain number of visitors they close the entrance doors.

The pilgrims' office lost its charm with the move to new location. Everything completely impersonal. Pilgrims hardly greet each other, no one claps for the received plaque. How different it was in the old town at previous location. Moreover, security won't let you in until you fill the registration survey on the street. That means scan QR code on outdoor terminal with smartphone, which opens the survey. You enter all required data, which even for a skilled user takes 10 minutes of tedious work. Send completed survey electronically via web, then get new QR code on phone. Show it to security at entrance. He prints ticket with waiting number based on it. Only then let into building and queue at counters. There on screen before reception wait for your number. Next to it appears counter number where to go and get the plaque. Mask still mandatory in office despite prior lifting of measures in Spain.

In restaurants no more classic menus. Usually scribbled dishes on board at entrance, inside all kinds of QR codes on tables. Scan it and menu appears on phone, Spanish of course. Without smartphone nowhere, especially without big screen one. After some Spanish bargaining with waitress we finally ordered paella with seafood, which proved more than excellent choice. Good we didn't get ones with QR codes velik nasmeh.

Main bus station recently demolished. Our last day just before departure we stared like two calves at huge hole in its place wondering where airport bus goes now. So no one else in similar trouble I'll reveal secret. Small bus station same side of street is right choice. Airport bus will surely stop there too.

In conclusion ... we were both sorry that despite many km walked our this year's path ends in Santiago and no extra days for walking. Once you do first hundred km, final number not so important anymore. Highly recommend nasmeh. More in photo story ...
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Morning in Ponferrada. The night rain has washed the streets, light drizzle accompanies us for another kilometer or so1
Camino Invierno - Winter Path On the edge of the town we find the first sign for Camino Invierno. There are plenty of them afterwards2
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The path soon turns onto a pleasant macadam road. In the background Ponferrada, where we slept3
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The landscape is beautiful and is just turning spring green. Cherry orchards everywhere4
Camino Invierno - Winter Path There are also lots of vines, but no sign of large vineyards5
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We are surprised by the beauty of the first day and enjoy the views6
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The appearance of the village is similar to the recently walked Olvidado, only the building material is different7
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Everything looks somehow rickety and does not inspire much confidence in the quality of construction8
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Very interestingly laid road. I would really like to know its story ...9
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Unmissable ...10
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Greetings to pilgrims. Surprisingly, we haven't met anyone yet11
Camino Invierno - Winter Path They also mined in these areas. Anthracite is at home here12
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Hamlet by the mine. Inhabited, but long forgotten by the world and time13
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Hand-carved slate roofing. This is local material and older houses are all covered with it14
Camino Invierno - Winter Path People also live like this and we saw a lot of it. Sometimes we are left speechless15
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Later we come across an area of huge trees. Only here and nowhere else16
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Castillo de Cornatel, ruler on the rocky cliff. Easier to access from this side.17
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We descend into the valley looking for an open refreshment spot.18
Camino Invierno - Winter Path More by chance we find an antique village inn that skilfully avoids modernisation :)19
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We continue towards Las Medulas. Despite the excellent road, there is not much traffic.20
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The whole area is characterised by incredible rock formations of some sort of sandstone.21
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We turn into the first guesthouse as the time nears afternoon siesta. Then everything closes.22
Camino Invierno - Winter Path In the photo the head chef, already a bit tipsy. A very special story happened here :) 23
Camino Invierno - Winter Path View of the Las Medulas area from the other side as well.24
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We continue through the beautiful landscape.25
Camino Invierno - Winter Path A beautiful butterfly greets us too :)26
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The new is usually just an upgrade of the old. Here nobody bothers with it.27
Camino Invierno - Winter Path First real albergue where we overnight. We are extremely satisfied. Nice, clean and heated.28
Camino Invierno - Winter Path It is run by owners Angel and Rosa, both originally from Lithuania. They charge nothing, pay what you want.29
Camino Invierno - Winter Path In the albergue we meet the same wandering souls. In the photo besides us is also Serge from Canada.30
Camino Invierno - Winter Path For a while we have a common path, full of all kinds of debates.31
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Every day is different, every day new views.32
Camino Invierno - Winter Path He, he ... we haven't experienced such a warm welcome for a long time :)33
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This is also a surprise. They invite us to join and pick candies from the ground.34
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This is their custom at baptism. On departure, the girl's father gives us a whole bag of candies :)35
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We are happy that we chose this path. We have only good experiences and plenty of stories.36
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Sometimes a bit of solitude is good too. In the silence of the forest we meditate each alone.37
Camino Invierno - Winter Path There is more than enough water. Everywhere there are springs, streams, rivers ...38
Camino Invierno - Winter Path A car is more of an exception on these roads. If someone drives by, we are surprised along with the driver :)39
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Here we cross into Galicia. The stone is slate block, characteristic of this Spanish region.40
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Houses are built from local material and due to the color the feeling is extremely pleasant.41
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We two, this time on the same side of the lens. I hope it's noticeable that I'm color-coordinated with the surroundings :)42
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This is not Spanish Stonehenge, but a welcome aid on rainy days full of mud.43
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The first eucalyptus trees appear, characteristic for their bark and pleasant aroma.44
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Jerome, our French friend, is fading on a hot day. By the water he takes a break.45
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We two continue. We are used to such conditions.46
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Farmstead by the path. No doubt who lives here :)47
Camino Invierno - Winter Path In the following days we encounter extensive areas of scorched pines48
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Most people don't even suspect it, but we hear the rumble of forestry machines in the distance49
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Incredible, all of this is a cleared burn area. Obviously, a year or two ago a fierce fire raged here50
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Without the forester's help, we wouldn't have crossed the worksite so easily. Steep and dangerous51
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The feeling is much better when we step back onto solid ground52
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Another specialty of these areas, Land Rover Santana. They are everywhere, all ages and conditions53
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Without stones it would be much wetter. There is no other crossing54
Camino Invierno - Winter Path After a long time we reach refreshments again. The friendly landlady creates half the atmosphere :)55
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Now everything is dry, on wet days the stones are more than welcome. Tested several times :)56
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Galicia, mystical landscape57
Camino Invierno - Winter Path As if walking on a wide asphalt road, although there is no village far and wide58
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Ebro is a Spanish brand and many farms use them59
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This also goes down the middle of the street, more folksy :)60
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Another little jewel. We cross the Río Miño river61
Camino Invierno - Winter Path You can see we've been hiking for almost three weeks. Everything is greener, more lush62
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Important milestone ... we are already less than 100 km to Santiago :)63
Camino Invierno - Winter Path A truly special accommodation for minimal money, I'd easily give it five stars64
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The morning awakens to a foggy day. Due to the humidity we cover the backpacks65
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Lush undergrowth still sleeps its winter sleep. Even like this it is beautiful66
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This is our future. We see only a bit ahead of us, never the whole67
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We turn on the autopilot several times. Only some car disturbs its operation.68
Camino Invierno - Winter Path From here on, another municipality is responsible for path maintenance.69
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Pleasant strolling along the forest path.70
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This shitty mud. Almost 100 m we squelched through soaked cowpats without detour option.71
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Left and right are only farms, mostly livestock ones. It can be smelled in the air too.72
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We enter a flat area where farming villages follow one after another.73
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We are getting ever closer to the final goal :)74
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Street pulperia. Octopuses are cooked outdoors, attracting passers-by.75
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Another of the rare open churches. Modest and nicely kept.76
Camino Invierno - Winter Path One of the frequent garage workshops. Let everyone form their own opinion on its tidiness :)77
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Conclusion of another day. This time we sleep in an albergue.78
Camino Invierno - Winter Path It will be a long day, so we set off early. Morning offers a nice path through the park.79
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The continuation is also pleasant. It follows a soft path and not too hot yet.80
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Heat rises through the day, so every tree shelter is welcome.81
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We stop at the pathside albergue just for refreshment. We are served friendly.82
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Strong colors are extremely popular among Spaniards. Their taste could be debated :)83
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The closer to Santiago, the more open churches there are.84
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Tourist *peregrinos*. Bus brings them to the spot and picks up at agreed place.85
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Here we can walk each in our own lane :)86
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Interesting kitchen in Ponte Ulla albergue. Has everything, surprisingly no water anywhere.87
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Morning view of the bridges, after which the hamlet Ponte Ulla also got its name88
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We are already right before Santiago, but there are no pilgrims from this direction anywhere89
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Another example of a strong color that you can see from kilometers away. It would be interesting to see the interior of the house90
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Everything is nicely marked. We have been traveling along Camino Sanabres since Laxe91
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Another peculiarity. Mobile bakeries deliver bread (pan) to homes everywhere92
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Suburbs of Santiago de Compostela93
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Curious pilgrim, by appearance a German :)94
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Plaza del Obradoiro in front of the cathedral, meeting point of pilgrims from all over the world95
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Noa from Israel, whom we met on the last day96
Camino Invierno - Winter Path There are also those who arrive with their last strength :)97
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Final goal ... St. James Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela98
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Pilgrim office, where before entry you need to fill out an electronic questionnaire on the street99
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Inside on the screen you wait for your call number and counter number where you have to go100
Camino Invierno - Winter Path In the company of famous women from Santiago :)101
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We didn't go to the cathedral because of the crowd, but hunger demanded its due102
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Excellent paella, finger-licking good. Twice!103
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Last night's stay. Modern pilgrim hostel with high-level comfort104
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Morning of the last day. Streets are still empty, we enjoy the coolness. The cathedral is also deserted105
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Relic of St. James in the crypt106
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Central part with St. James. The passage right behind him is no longer accessible107
Camino Invierno - Winter Path In memory of sister ...108
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Botafumeiro, the largest censer in the world. It is 1.6 m high and weighs 80 kg109
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Organs of enormous dimensions that extend in the main nave110
Camino Invierno - Winter Path For a decade this has been my favorite final point. They have excellent coffee and croissants111
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Airport bus. This time it stops at the emergency station next to the collapsed main bus station112
Camino Invierno - Winter Path We are returning with Iberia. Note, baggage rules are changing in the aviation world113
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The steel bird carries us high above the clouds, thoughts remain in Spain114
Camino Invierno - Winter Path The landing is nice, legs are completely numb from the long journey115
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Marco Polo in Venice, awaits us the return to Ljubljana116
Camino Invierno - Winter Path Night ride and conclusion of our journey at dusk117
Camino Invierno - Winter Path RED is the track of Camino Invierno. It is 270 km long of the total 800 km118
Camino Invierno - Winter Path This is how we stamped our credentials from the start in Bilbao to the finish in Santiago119
(+8)like
2061alessio27. 05. 2022 20:18:21
thanksmežikanje nice, interesting, without other words, thanks again.
(+3)like
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