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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Rjavina / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (Tominšek route)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (Tominšek route)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Destination: Rjavina (2532 m)
Route name: Tominšek route
Walking time: 6 h 25 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Elevation gain: 1545 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1700 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 21.946
 2 people like this post
Number of photos: 54
Number of comments: 7
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for Vrata Valley. Further on, we drive along the toll road, which is closed to public traffic in winter time, following it to the large parking lot located a few minutes before Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Route description:
From the large parking lot we continue along the road closed to public traffic, arriving in a few minutes at Šlajmerjev dom and a little further at Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Before Aljažev dom, the path to Škrlatica branches off to the right, but we continue straight in the direction of Triglav, Luknje, Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih and numerous other destinations along a wide path that leads us past the chapel into the forest, and further on it is quite gentle.
We continue past the winter bivouac, and upon leaving the forest we arrive at the famous plaque in Vrata Valley dedicated to the fallen partisan mountaineers.
Here we leave the wide gentle path that continues towards the head of the valley and proceed left towards Tominškova path. We continue through scree into the forest, where we begin ascending on a well-made path; the path is quite steep and wooden steps assist us in a few places. After a little more than an hour and a half of steep path, the forest begins to thin and we reach the start of the climbing section, where the first fixed protections help us.
Further on, the path becomes increasingly precipitous and exposed to falling rocks; from the slopes of Rjavčeve glave it gradually passes to the slopes of Begunjski vrh. The climbing part of Tominškova path mainly leads us in a traversing ascent to the right, but a few times we also ascend quite steeply straight up with the aid of fixed protections.
Above 2000 meters above sea level, the path gradually becomes less demanding and we join the path leading over Prag, and a little further we arrive at Begunjski studenec.
Further we continue steeply ascending; the path is technically not demanding in this section, and after about 15 minutes of further walking we reach the next junction near Kotel.
We continue left towards Staničev dom pod Triglavom (slightly right Triglav and Triglavski dom na Kredarici) and through the high-alpine karst terrain we bypass the Kotel depression on the left side, with the path leading along fissures and dolines, so extra caution is needed especially in fog and snow; otherwise, the path is technically not demanding in this section. Higher we traverse up over a short scree slope, then reach the plateau-like terrain, and with beautiful views of Triglav and the surrounding mountains we ascend to Dom Valentina Staniča.
We continue right towards Rjavina along the ridge path and dolina Krme (left Begunjski vrh and Cmir, straight dolina Kot, sharply right Triglav and Triglavski dom na Kredarici) and first gently, then moderately ascend. After about 15 minutes of ascent from Dom Valentina Staniča we stop ascending and reach a small ridge with a marked junction.
We continue left towards Rjavina (straight Krma and Konjsko sedlo) and begin descending along a panoramic ridge. We descend for quite some time, losing about 100 elevation meters, and at Dovška vratca we stop descending.
Here the previously mentioned shortcut joins from the left, shortening the path by about 45 minutes; we continue straight and begin steeply ascending the western slopes of Rjavina, where a nice view back to Triglav opens up. From the steep slope with the help of some fixed protections we reach the western ridge of Rjavina, and with exceptional views we continue towards the western forepeak i.e. Mali Rjavina (2530 m).
A short descent follows and from the left the climbing path from dolina Kot joins us.
We continue straight and quickly reach a chimney, down which we descend vertically for about 30 elevation meters; during the descent, numerous pitons and pegs assist us, no cable. After this very demanding passage, the path becomes less demanding and past two natural windows, through one of which we get a really nice view of Škrlatica, we quickly reach the summit of Rjavina.
Starting point - Aljažev dom 0:05, Aljažev dom - Kozja dolina 1:50, Kozja dolina - Begunjski studenec 1:45, Begunjski studenec - Kotel 0:15, Kotel - Dom Valentina Staniča 0:30, Dom Valentina Staniča - Ravnica pod Ržjo 0:15, Ravnica pod Ržjo - Dovška vratca 0:20, Dovška vratca - Mala Rjavina 1:00, Mala Rjavina - Rjavina 0:25.
route map - Rjavina
Along the route: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1001m), Spomenik padlim partizanom gornikom (1020m), Kozja dolina (1749m), Begunjski studenec (2091m), Kotel (2166m), Dom Valentina Staniča (2332m), Ravnica pod Ržjo (2371m), Dovška vratca (2267m), Mala Rjavina (2530m), Okno v Rjavini (2492m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
Photos:
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Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (Tominšek route)
uhan117. 07. 2012
Hi

Question: Vrata-Tominškova-Cmir-Vrbanove špice-Rjavina-Stanič-Prag-Vrata... Is this feasible in one day and is the route correct - first to Vrbanove then to Rjavina and over the ridge to Stanič?

If anyone has already hiked this, how much time did it take?


Thanks
bos17. 07. 2012
my suggestion is to go from Kot directly to Rjavina, along the ridge to Staniča, then to Cmir and descend via Vrbanove špice back to Kot
this is doable in one day, tested if you are of course properly prepared

bos17. 07. 2012
the course of your tour was done today by "Ljubitelj gora"
check the conditions
ljubitelj gora17. 07. 2012
11 hours
uhan118. 07. 2012
Thanks...

One or the other option will work. We'll be staying in Vratih, so we'd start from there. Or we can drive to Kot and continue from there.

lp
ljubitelj gora18. 07. 2012
This hopping up and down across all those ridges is tiring for 1 day, you need plenty of fitness and to start very early. Better do one from Kot over Vrbanove špice to Staniča then over Rjavina back to the valley or vice versa, as you like, the other from Vrata via Tominškova to Begunjski vrh, then towards Cmir and back to Staniča and over Prag to the valley. There are plenty of options, best is to go straight from Vrata and split these peaks over two days with overnight in the hut.
bo_zl8. 08. 2018
Walked it today. I'd say Rjavina is the summit that surprises you the most. When you think you're finally at the top, there's another descent and ascent. I think at least 4 times like that. And there's quite a bit of climbing too. It's not just that exposed chimney, there are other parts too. So the path from Staniča to the summit is among the very difficult ones.
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