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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Rjavina / Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (via Prag)

Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (via Prag)

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Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4128°N 13,8466°E
Destination: Rjavina (2532 m)
Route name: via Prag
Walking time: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Elevation gain: 1545 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1700 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 14.180
 2 people like this post
Number of photos: 59
Number of comments: 1
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for Vrata Valley. We continue along the toll road, which is closed to public traffic in winter, following it to the large parking lot located a few minutes before Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Route description:
From the parking lot, continue along the gravel road closed to public traffic, passing Šlajmerjev dom to quickly reach Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Bypass Aljažev dom on the right and continue straight towards Triglav, Sovatna, Luknja... (right Škrlatica, bivouac at Rušje...). Continue on the poorer gravel road, which leads past the winter room to a marked junction at the famous peg (monument to fallen partisan mountaineers).
Continue straight again (left Tominškova pot), a gentle path leads with beautiful views of Triglav and the North Face of Triglav. After a few minutes of walking, we enter a beech forest, where the path via Sovatna branches right; we continue straight towards Luknja and Triglav - the path over Prag. A short ascent on the cart track follows, then the markings direct us left to the path approaching the bed of Triglavska Bistrica. Here the path passes a memorial to mountain victims, and shortly after we reach the next marked junction.
Straight continues the path to Luknja, we go left towards the path over Prag, where the path first leads across the Triglavska Bistrica stream (slightly higher is the spring of Bistrica).
On the other side of the stream, we quickly reach the first steep section, aided by the first pegs; after a few minutes, the difficulty eases, and we continue steeply ascending with increasingly beautiful views across the valley.
This section is partially overgrown with brush, higher up safety gear reappears, and soon we reach probably the most difficult part of the path over Prag, where with the help of brackets and cables we climb a nearly vertical 15-meter chimney. The path gradually becomes easier again, Tominškova pot joins from the left, and a few steps further we reach Begunjski studenec.
We continue steeply ascending; technically not demanding here, after about 15 minutes we reach the next junction near Kotel.
Go left towards Staničev dom pod Triglavom (slightly right Triglav and Triglavski dom na Kredarici) and traverse the high karst terrain, bypassing the Kotel valley on the left; the path leads along fissures and sinkholes, requiring extra caution especially in fog and snow, otherwise technically not demanding. Higher, we cross a short scree slope transversely, then reach the plateau, ascending with beautiful views of Triglav and surrounding peaks to Dom Valentina Staniča.
Continue right towards Rjavina along the ridge path and Krma Valley (left Begunjski vrh and Cmir, straight Kot Valley, sharply right Triglav and Triglavski dom na Kredarici), first gently then moderately ascending. After about 15 minutes ascent from Dom Valentina Staniča, the ascent levels off at a small ridge with a marked junction.
Go left towards Rjavina (straight Krma and Konjsko sedlo) and begin descending the scenic ridge. We descend for some time, losing about 100 meters of elevation, leveling off at Dovška vratca.
Here, the aforementioned shortcut joins from the left, shortening the path by about 45 minutes; we continue straight and begin steeply ascending the western slopes of Rjavina, with a beautiful view back to Triglav. From the steep slope, aided by some safety gear, we reach the western ridge of Rjavina, continuing with exceptional views towards the western forepeak or Mali Rjavini (2530 m).
A short descent follows, and the climbing path from Kot Valley joins from the left.
Continue straight to a chimney, down which we descend vertically about 30 meters of elevation; numerous pegs and brackets assist the descent, no cable. After this very demanding passage, the path becomes less demanding, passing two natural windows, through one of which there is a superb view of Škrlatica, and we quickly reach the summit of Rjavina.
Starting point - Aljažev dom 0:05, Aljažev dom - Bistrica spring 0:55, Bistrica spring - Begunjski studenec 2:45, Begunjski studenec - Kotel 0:15, Kotel - Dom Valentina Staniča 0:30, Dom Valentina Staniča - Ravnica pod Ržjo 0:15, Ravnica pod Ržjo - Dovška vratca 0:20, Dovška vratca - Mala Rjavina 1:00, Mala Rjavina - Rjavina 0:25.
route map - Rjavina
Along the route: Aljažev dom v Vratih (1001m), Spomenik padlim partizanom gornikom (1020m), V Plazičih (1040m), Izvir Bistrice (1160m), Begunjski studenec (2091m), Kotel (2166m), Dom Valentina Staniča (2332m), Ravnica pod Ržjo (2371m), Dovška vratca (2267m), Mala Rjavina (2530m), Okno v Rjavini (2492m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, summit register
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Discussion about the trip Aljažev dom v Vratih - Rjavina (via Prag)
tenorist26. 08. 2023 19:57:09
Today I was on Rjavina. Demanding and respectable tour.
But must praise the staff at Dom Valentina Staniča. Extremely friendly, warm-hearted. Definitely, if you're there, don't just pass by. velik nasmehnasmeh
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