Aljažev dom v Vratih - Stenar (Stenar po JV grebenu)
Starting point: Aljažev dom v Vratih (987 m)
Route name: Stenar po JV grebenu
Walking time: 6 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain, rock climbing ascent
Elevation gain: 1514 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1514 m
Map: Triglav 1:50000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
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Access to starting point:
Drive to Mojstrano, then follow the signs for the Vrata valley. Continue along the toll road, which is closed to public traffic in winter, following it to the large parking lot a few minutes before Aljažev dom v Vratih.
Route description:
From the starting point we head towards the path to Stenar via Sovatno.
At 1800 m we leave the marked path and turn into the distinct cirque below Stenarjeva planja. We climb the cirque from left to right aiming at a large ledge above us. On the ledge there is a huge rock with a small figure. From the figure we have two options: along the ledge left around the edge (I-II) or right past the gams hotel and across the slab (similar difficulty) onto an indistinct ridge, over it and down to Stenarjeva planja.
Once there we have several options. Our goal is the serrated ridge on the right side of the planja.
We can traverse the slope and reach it at approx. 2200 m or climb to the top on our upper left side and from there traverse to the SE ridge of Stenar.
The ledge is nicely passable, not at all broken or otherwise difficult.
Once on the ridge we do not stray far from the edge. Difficulties approach grade II but do not exceed it. We continue along the edge to Spodnji Stenar where the SE ridge ends. For Stenar we choose one of many possible approach variants.
The further left we go, the easier it is.
We climb to the summit via a short wall (I-II).
From the summit we can also go to the rarely visited Macesence.
The approach to Macesence requires climbing down (II-III) or a rappel on a rope to the notch. From there the continuation is clear.
The approach to Stenar via the SE ridge is considered a very demanding off-trail route, climbing of grade II, with a slight alpine character due to all the orientation and other difficulties.
Descent to Macesence requires managing climbing back II-III or a rappel on a rope.
The entire ascent across the planja is a beautiful high-mountain garden of flowering flowers, walking chamois and complete peace not far from the busy Vrata.
For the ascent I recommend the company of a guide - alpinist.
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