Dolina Kot - Rjavina (climbing way)
Starting point: Dolina Kot (950 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,4157°N 13,8977°E |
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Route name: climbing way
Walking time: 5 h
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Via ferrata: B/C
Elevation gain: 1582 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1615 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 113.590
 | 13 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for the Kot and Krma valleys. At Kosmačev preval, we leave the road leading further towards Krma, Radovna and Bled and continue driving right onto the side road in the direction of the Kot valley. This is followed by driving on a gravel road, which we follow to the mountain direction signs at the end of the drivable road in Lengarjev rovt.
Route description:
From the end of the road, we continue along a wider marked path in the direction of Staničev dom and Kredarica, which gently ascends through the forest. After a few minutes, we reach the Kotarica scree, which we cross transversely to the other side, where the path reappears.
This is followed by some easy walking through the forest, but after about half an hour, the path quickly becomes quite steep and, due to often slippery ground, also dangerous for slipping, especially on the descent, so extra caution is needed on this section. On this part, a few pegs assist at the more difficult spots. Higher up, the steepness eases and the path leads us to the spring Pri studenčku, which dries up in dry periods.
Here, an unmarked path branches left towards Macesnovec, but we continue straight across the torrent gully, and after the gully, we cross a short secured but not particularly demanding section. This is followed by an ascent through a belt of dwarf pines, higher up reaching a more rocky terrain, where we can already nicely see a larger boulder ahead. Here, our path is unobtrusively crossed by the PP trail (Planica - Pokljuka trail), and we ascend with increasingly beautiful views to the aforementioned boulder called Debeli kamen.
At Debeli kamen, the dwarf pines occasionally end definitively, and we continue through increasingly high-mountain terrain, mostly ascending on scree. On this section, looking back, we get a nice view of Ladja (Ladja is a distinct sheer promontory or peak overgrown with dwarf pines rising above the Kot valley), and then we ascend to a marked junction where the climbing path to Vrbanove špice, or Lojzeta Rekarja trail, branches right.
We continue on the left path towards Triglav, Rjavina and Dom Valentina Staniča pod Triglavom, where the steepness eases, and the path leads along the left side of the Pekel ridge.
Soon we reach the next junction, where we turn left towards the climbing path to Rjavina (straight to Dom Valentina Staniča, Triglav, Begunjski vrh, Cmir and Rjavina via the ridge path), which quickly becomes quite steep and brings us to the climbing section in a few minutes.
The path ahead becomes technically very demanding as it immediately ascends a steep pillar with the help of fixed protections. This is followed by an exposed traverse to the left, where the path is well protected; upon reaching the edge of the side ridge, we step over to the other, also exposed side of the side ridge. The path then turns right and ascends the narrow and exposed side ridge, aided by numerous fixed protections. Higher up, we cross a fissure in the side ridge and then, with the help of brackets, ascend to a less steep section. From here, a short ascent follows, and we reach a junction on the main ridge of Rjavina, where we join the less demanding ridge path, by which we can descend.
We continue left (right is the ridge path and Mala Rjavina) and quickly reach a chimney, down which we descend vertically for about 30 meters in height, aided by numerous pegs and brackets on the descent, no cable. After this very demanding passage, the path becomes less difficult and past two natural windows, through one of which we get a really nice view of Škrlatica, we quickly reach the summit of Rjavina.
Starting point - Pri studencu 1:25, Pri studencu - Debeli kamen 1:20, Debeli kamen - Pekel 0:45, Pekel - Rjavina 1:30.
Along the route: Pri studencu (1330m), Debeli kamen (1810m), Pekel (2089m), Okno v Rjavini (2492m)
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Discussion about the trip Dolina Kot - Rjavina (climbing way)
Show older messages
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| Gost21. 08. 2006 |
The path from Kot to the saddle past Debeli kamen does drag on but upon seeing Rjavina and Vrbanove špice, that's quickly forgotten. When we reach the saddle, Staničeva koča is nicely visible. Then we head right to Rjavina. The path is exceptionally interesting, climbing, with a beautiful view.
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| Gost16. 09. 2006 |
which path is harder: Škrlatica or Rjavina?
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| Gost16. 09. 2006 |
To me the climbing path to Rjavina seems harder than to Škrlatica, the ridge one somewhat easier. Best.
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| Linebite12. 10. 2006 |
This path is pure poetry, of course if you like climbing paths. The most annoying part of the path is to Debeli kamen. The path is namely almost all year wet and slippery - wet roots and stones. From the stone onwards you really feel like you're in the high mountains. From the top of Rjavina the view is really unique. You can see almost all the Julijci... Vrbanove špice up close... no need to list more, in short beautiful.
Good luck and safe steps
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| Gost5. 03. 2007 |
For me Rjavina and Škrlatica are somehow equal, only Škrlatica is longer.
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| Gost8. 03. 2007 |
Rjavina seems more demanding to me than Škrlatica. The view is really wonderful (of course in good weather). For a one-day tour (especially if you drive from far away) it's really a demanding feat - the path to Debeli kamen and back to the valley is "outrageous".
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| Gost6. 06. 2007 |
The ascent to Rjavina via the climbing route remains a good memory for me. On the way, I met two Czechs, one of them had the sole come off his boot. He descended only in socks.
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| Gost10. 07. 2007 |
I also join the opinion that this path is pure poetry; wonderful views.. They don't call it the queen of Kot for nothing. LP
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| david11. 07. 2007 |
IS IT POSSIBLE THERE'S STILL SOME SNOW ON THE PATH?
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| Gost12. 07. 2007 |
Rjavina is a real real challenge. The path to Debeleg kamen and back is really very nasty (wet, slippery - one could say it's very demanding, since injury can easily occur). The entry into the wall and to the top of Rjavina felt like pure adrenaline - wonderful. The weather was gorgeous, so everything was even more heavenly. It was a one-day challenge.
I visited Škrlatica from Pogačnikov dom (I stayed overnight there). Even then I had beautiful weather, plenty of time. The path remained in my memory as easier (great caution is needed for the passage under Dolkova Špica) - at that time I was still a complete beginner, and I also struggled with vertigo (fear of depths).
Yes, Rjavina is more demanding.
Lots of enjoyment and nice weather.
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| Gost16. 07. 2007 |
Rjavina via the climbing route is certainly more demanding than Skrlatica and many other mountains. Yesterday my wife and I were there, the views were wonderful. For one day it's really a big undertaking, especially if you're from Primorska. The descent really drags on like a spring snail.
Enjoy yourselves, and safe steps.
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| Gost23. 07. 2007 |
Yesterday I did the Kot-Pekel-climbing route to Rjavina, descent via the ridge path to Staničeva koča and back to the valley. If you have no problems with vertigo, the tour is truly unique and hard to compare with others. Fascinating view of Škrlatica through the window. I recommend a helmet, as there is quite a lot of scree on the path, and the via ferrata set didn't seem appropriate to me, especially because you practically can't use it after the pillar with just pitons. Fantastic! I have a question for hikers who have gone along the Hanzova pot to Mojstrovka. How does the Hanzova pot compare to the above-described route, as I would like to do it in early autumn. Thanks for the answer. Best regards, Andrej
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| Gost23. 07. 2007 |
The Hanzova to Mojstrovka is a fantastic, secured, climbing path, just much shorter than the one through Pekel to Rjavina.
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| Gost24. 07. 2007 |
Thanks for the reply! I have another question, namely I would ask for a short description of the Hanzova pot to Prisank (Prisojnik), as it is apparently also wonderful. If anyone knows anything about it, I ask for a response. Best regards, Andrej
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| Gost10. 08. 2007 |
Bro, Hanzova is easy! Especially compared to what you said about Rjavina. Best, sis
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| Gost25. 08. 2007 |
Brane V. - today conquered Rjavina again with two colleagues. I was here last year too, but due to bad weather I didn't reach the summit. For lovers of via ferrata and pegs. We returned along the ridge past Staničeva koča back via Kot. In the morning Kot was very wet, slippery-dangerous. On the way back it had already dried. Wonderful panoramic view from the top today.
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| Gost27. 08. 2007 |
I wonder if self-belaying is mandatory on this climbing trail or if the trail is sufficiently secured?
Thank you and best regards
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| Gost28. 08. 2007 |
Brane V. - The climbing trail to Rjavina is known as one of our most demanding. It is well secured. Suitable only for experienced. If you master climbing on cables and pitons well, you don't need self-belaying, but it never hurts. Watch out for loose rocks. Go bravely and enjoy!
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| sector7. 09. 2007 |
I’ve been to this mountain twice, and I’ll go again. I’m a fan of fixed cables and pegs. There are plenty here.. I recommend only to us experienced ones,... best regards
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| Gost13. 09. 2007 |
I am commenting on the following description: "After the spring we cross the torrent with the help of some cables. We reach the scree under Rjavina. The path then crosses slightly to the right over a short rocky jump. In front of us we see a large boulder named Debeli kamen." When I followed this description, I turned left about half an hour too early, where there is actually a red dot on a rock to the left that can mislead you. Behind that rock is a short wall with some pegs, then scree, then a small cliff... and when you are at the top of that small cliff you realize you cannot go further unless you are a climber with safety gear... and you cannot go back either... I think it is right to warn about this section in the description or to describe the left section in more detail - I think this section on the "right" path is marked with an inscription on the rock. Given that I asked at least five passing hikers their opinion on this section and we were all doubtful, I think confusing the paths is quite likely.
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| Bali21. 09. 2007 |
Hiked on Saturday, super path, super weather. Ibex whistled at us and checked us out closely.
Path not for those with vertigo or unprepared.
The path to Staničeva koča via the ridge then dragged on quite a bit, you have the hut in sight the whole time, but make a considerable detour.
Path is very well secured.
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| Gost2. 11. 2007 |
The path is one of the most demanding in our mountains but I recommend it to lovers of heights, cables and pegs; the path is excellently secured but caution while climbing is not superfluous, I think it's good to use a helmet and I advise against the path for the inexperienced and vertiginous.
Regards R.J
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| Gost2. 11. 2007 |
Well, it's not that demanding!
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| grahlck2. 11. 2008 |
I also think it is not overly demanding.
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| karlin5. 08. 2009 |
Today I went on the mentioned trail. I returned towards Staničeva koča. I want to warn about a couple of torn out pegs and cable (most likely result of lightning strike) on the path from the summit onwards from the fork to the hut and Kot - additional caution needed and a bit easier climbing.
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| jusuf18. 08. 2009 |
On Sunday 16.8.09 I went along the mentioned path. I would warn about a fresh rockfall on the summit ridge, which significantly complicates passage in that section because two pitons have been pulled out and the wire rope is unusable there. From the color of the rockfall, I would deduce it happened last winter. You can shorten the return by descending the ridge to Dovška vratca - the lowest point on the path towards Stanič - and then turn right through the scree towards the north and join the path from Stanič to Kot. On the scree, you need to keep more to the right. This section is not marked, but orientation is not problematic.
Otherwise, the path is unique, in the wall I watched four chamois at 50 m for half an hour. Views from the top are unique, Triglav (with crowds on top) like on the palm of your hand. I was alone on Rjavina.
Protection really hardly comes into play, but it helps a lot, sometimes you just have to hold onto the rock. But I wouldn't recommend it to those with vertigo. A helmet on the wall path is almost mandatory, especially since some mountaineer from the ridge path can trigger a stone.
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| Sam.volk23. 08. 2009 |
Very nice hike, the path is well protected. I don't recommend it to those afraid of heights and the inexperienced. Lp
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| kofetarca30. 08. 2009 |
On Friday, 28.8.09 a group of 8 friends went from Kot over Vrbanove špice to Staničeva koča and then via the ridge path to Rjavina and back down to Kot via the climbing path. Wonderful day, beautiful views, especially through the windows on both sides. Rjavina is not easy, but the most annoying part was the path to and from Debeleg kamen....in the morning and evening everything is wet.
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| felix9. 10. 2009 |
On 23rd and 24th Sept. my friend and I did the route from Kot to Rjavina, from the summit we continued along the ridge past Stanič Hut to Kredarica. Late afternoon we set off for Triglav summit, returned to Kredarica and fell asleep dead tired. The second day we went past Stanič Hut to Cmir, on return we also visited Begunjski vrh and Visoka Vrbanova špica. From there followed the return to Kot Valley. Two beautiful days passed, I agree with Kofetarica that the path under Debelim kamen is obnoxiously unpleasant (wet rocks and scree).
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| Avanturistični kozorog11. 07. 2010 |
10.06.2010
On the path you need to cross snowfields several times, ice axe not necessarily needed. On the path the sun shines in your face all the time (cap with visor), the last - climbing section well protected, helmet mandatory. The path is long, start early and take enough fluids. On the way to Debeleg kamen there is a glacial stream.
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| merkur11. 07. 2010 |
What is meant by the phrase "glacial stream" and where exactly is it supposed to be?
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| Klemenko18. 08. 2010 |
Here, yesterday I "pocketed" this Rjavina (back along the ridge). Great. True about the sun, I have some consequences today despite enough drink. Under the helmet the hat hardly fits. Path well marked, safety gear renewed, I was a bit annoyed by the fallen signs at junctions that serve nothing (not for myself: e.g. just before Staničevo I met a confused family from Croatia). I exaggerated a bit with the times, so I fairly tired finished the beautiful tour; on the SE side saw some ibex, on the NW about 10 chamois with young. I also recommend it!
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| nevica22. 08. 2010 |
Yesterday we conquered Rjavina from Kot via the climbing ascent and then the ridge descent. The approach to the wall drags a bit, but you get plenty of adrenaline on the path to the summit itself. Unfortunately, we didn't get the view through the window to Škrlatica (clouds). Wonderful tour, but not for the vertiginous.
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| schimma28. 08. 2010 |
On Thursday, 22.08.2010, my colleague and I were on this beautiful tour from Kot and back via Vrbanove špice. I would ask the gentleman with whom we caught up most of the way to send me his email address again, because I can't send him mail. Lp, Simon
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| 5Xum23. 06. 2011 |
I see a lot of comparisons with Škrlatica, what about comparing this path with the path to Jalovec through the wall of Goličica?
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| andrej7823. 06. 2011 |
Jalovec is the master, the path through Goličica is much much harder.
lp
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| JusAvgustin23. 06. 2011 |
no comparison between the climb to Rjavina and Škrlatica...
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| velkavrh23. 06. 2011 |
In 2007 I was on Rjavina from Kot, the year before on Škrlatica. As JusAvgustin correctly assessed, there is no comparison between the climb to Rjavina and Škrlatica. Škrlatica seemed much easier to me in terms of difficulty and demands. But you have to hike to the foot of Škrlatica incomparably longer.
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| mailman9. 07. 2011 |
Yesterday I was on Rjavina via this route!! Nice, no doubt, only the wind was quite annoying.
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| JusAvgustin9. 07. 2011 |
otherwise try Rjavina from Krma over the summit. you'll see what's nice and especially untouched description is in northern approaches by Mihelič
Lp, Juš
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| mailman9. 07. 2011 |
Thanks for the info!! But this route isn't marked on the map, so it confused me a bit!! I read the comment about this route, it must be nice.
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| goba122. 08. 2011 |
I'm interested if the described path and the path to Prisojnik - Jubilee path (through the Great Window) can be compared?
LP
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| Bojan_A2. 08. 2011 |
Personally, I find the Jubilee path harder.
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| nincokl9. 09. 2011 |
I've already been on Hanzova to Prisojnik, to Škrlatica, to Triglav via Plemenice, via the long ridge to Skuta, and I'm wondering if this climbing route is harder than the mentioned ones, because I got a hint that it is harder.
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| nata249. 09. 2011 |
It didn't seem harder to me. But you have to be careful, as everywhere. There is one narrow ridge, well protected, and one vertical chimney where you descend.
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| nincokl9. 09. 2011 |
thanks nata24, starting tomorrow.
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| JusAvgustin9. 09. 2011 |
above all it is shorter than Hanzova, more exposed than to Škrlatica and easier than T. through Plemenice... My personal opinion. But it is a beautiful (read fast) descent path from Rjavina.
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| planincb12. 09. 2011 |
Yesterday tried the climbing Kot-Rjavina trail, very good trail, well protected and marked - commendable, excellent view from the top to our peaks. But I have one question, a bit before Debelim kamen some under Rjavina turned left up the scree - next to the snow, does anyone know what that trail is or where it leads, red dot visible from afar on a larger stone.
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| JusAvgustin12. 09. 2011 |
The pathless route leads along the ledge of PP to Luknja saddle and from there to Luknja peak, or further along PP to Pungrt. This is the last 8th stage of the adventurous pathless traverse that starts in Planica and ends on Pokljuka, hence PP.
There's already a lot written, if you're interested enter just PP in the search engine
LPPp
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| planincb14. 09. 2011 |
Thanks for the reply, I see from the posts that you are very active and successful in exploring our mountains, congratulations, continue conquering pathless terrain so successfully. For me it's still a bit too much, but I like to go on secured trails anywhere. GOOD LUCK. BEST REGARDS.
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| foxy30. 07. 2012 |
done
but the pitons in the chimney are a bit too far apart for me, so I had to look for holds and footholds
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| planinsek30. 07. 2012 |
Which is easier: up to Rjavina and down via Vrbanove Špice or vice versa?
Thanks for the help!
lpp
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| goba1218. 08. 2012 |
today did the described path. seems to me the walking time of 5 hours is a bit too much. you complete the path in 3-4 hours depending on fitness.
why this path is called climbing I have no idea because technically it's not demanding (my opinion). the only annoying thing is further down in the forest, where wet rocks and slippery...up to that spring. and when you descend from Rjavina and start walking to the station the path is stupidly laid out..you go around and around but the hut is 200m aside
otherwise it's a nice one-day trip
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| dolenjka&primorc23. 06. 2013 |
Hello,
does anyone know how the conditions are on this path..is it recommended
best regards
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| viharnik23. 06. 2013 |
Up there despite the warm weather snowfields still persist. They start above Studenec at the first leveling 1500m, further some interruption to the right along the path, higher to Debelim kamen and above it snow again. Crossing the extreme gully at the entrance to the wall can be problematic, which is now even more undercut and thinned due to snow melting!. The path through Kot is otherwise completely undamaged and passable.
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| leja4. 08. 2013 |
I'm wondering if anyone has been to Rjavina these days. Is the path through Pekel normally passable?
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| leja6. 08. 2013 |
Thanks for the nice pictures.
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| ms_primoz15. 07. 2014 |
Is it safe enough to go on the mentioned path without winter equipment?
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| Pero#2415. 07. 2014 |
Hi, does anyone know what the snow conditions on the path are like? Is winter gear needed? rgds Peter
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| ms_primoz21. 07. 2014 |
I'll answer myself - on the path from Debelim kamen onwards (in the wall) there are two snowfields, the first one is helped by a steel cable and thus we avoid the danger, for the second one greater concentration and caution is needed, because we cross the snowfield (approx. 5m, steep) without the help of protections, holds. But the snow is soft and you can make footsteps (actually they are already made). Further there is no snow. Good luck and safe step
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| zlatica12. 08. 2014 |
With a colleague we were on Friday 8.8. on the climbing path to Rjavina. Conditions super, no problem. Snowfields (insignificant) are only here and there along the edge of Peklo, so happily up the mountain or to Stanič. The largest snowfield is under the hut. See picture.
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| zlatica12. 08. 2014 |
Unfortunately, pictures cannot be attached here.
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| dragovo15. 08. 2014 |
Please give information about the condition of the road into Dolina Kot. Thank you!
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| VanSims15. 08. 2014 |
No changes. It's like it has been for years. Drivable but carefully and slowly.
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| Keko15. 08. 2014 |
The road is passable. At two spots just before the end, you need to be a bit more careful if you have a lower car.
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| dragovo15. 08. 2014 |
VanSims and Keko, thanks for the info!!!
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| dragovo19. 08. 2014 |
On 17.8.2014 I was on Rjavina from Kot. The road is in quite good condition, except for the two already described spots where more caution is needed!
Attaching a few more photos!
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| martabojan20. 08. 2014 |
I'm wondering if Rjavina from Peklo to the summit via the ferrata is passable and what the fixed protections are like, is there still snow?
Marta
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| dragovo23. 08. 2014 |
Fixed protections are in excellent condition, no snow of course anymore!
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| Evk11. 07. 2016 |
Today we were on this ferrata for the first time, from Stanič we descended about half an hour downhill towards Kot and at the marked junction turned right towards the climbing path. Wonderful, but definitely for those not afraid of (unprotected) exposure and who can manage on crumbly terrain. Back along the ridge to Stanič - wonderful tour!
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| zokica12. 07. 2016 |
This path secured with cables is NOT a ferrata.
You need to know what ferratas are.
This path to Rjavina could be max B/C in difficulty, which however corresponds to our grades as a very demanding path.
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| zokica12. 07. 2016 |
and something else besides.
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| jax12. 07. 2016 |
No, nothing like that is included. Paths like this and similar ones can quite calmly be called ferratas, even though in difficulty they certainly don’t reach a particularly high rank.
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| matzaj13. 07. 2016 |
@ljubitelj_gora
A secured climbing path is intended to bring you to the goal as safely and as easily as possible.
Via ferrata - the purpose of a via ferrata is to deliberately seek harder passages and jumps even in places where the passages would otherwise be easier.
So your equation doesn't hold at all!
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| jax13. 07. 2016 |
Via ferrata - the purpose of a via ferrata is to deliberately seek harder passages and jumps even in places where the passages would otherwise be easier.
http://www.vieferrate.it/pag-relazioni/trentino-alto-adige/58-brenta/17-bocchette-alte.html
Here, one of the biggest Dolomite classics. Bocchette alte. Epic traverse along ledges around the entire mountain group. Now tell me, where is this path deliberately routed over the harder parts. Come on, well-routed ferratas damn well exploit natural passages and are very logically routed. If someone thinks that only those few Austrian piss-poor paths deserve the name via ferrata, fine by me.
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| sirt113. 07. 2016 |
Ferro=iron
ferrata=iron path
Lots of iron along the path is ferrata,
none or little iron is not ferrata!
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| zokica13. 07. 2016 |
jax - avoid ferratas and rather stay on the secured climbing path.
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| jax13. 07. 2016 |
Aha, ad hominem. Where I'll go hiking, I'll decide myself of course. About why what I wrote above doesn't hold, not a single word of course.
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| matzaj14. 07. 2016 |
Thanks a lot
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| Matjaz_6526. 08. 2016 |
ascent past Stanič's hut along the ridge and descent via climbing path
PHOTOS
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| maregol20. 06. 2017 |
Has anyone hiked Rjavina recently, is there any snow on the path?
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| lazo121. 06. 2017 |
Tomorrow we're going to Rjavina, we'll see ;-)
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| malimiha27. 06. 2017 |
Hi, I'm interested if the path is dry? Thanks and best regards
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| pmonci27. 06. 2017 |
Viewed from Vrbanova špica, it is dry. Was there yesterday.
Best regards
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| sportnick2. 07. 2017 |
The route is completely dry. We went from Staniča up to Rjavina via the ridge route, descended back to Kot via the climbing route. The protections are in excellent condition (except at one spot on the ridge where one peg is pulled out). The climbing route is quite demanding, very exposed in places and on very crumbly terrain, but for my taste Rjavina is one of the nicer discoveries in Slovenian mountains.
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| gandalf5. 07. 2017 |
Does anyone have experience with the bus in Kot valley. How far does it go, where does it turn, can you get there by bus at all? I've been there but wasn't paying attention, need it now. Thanks
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| redbull5. 07. 2017 |
Pity it's narrow
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| slainter5. 07. 2017 |
You can't get to Kot by bus, only by van or personal car. And even then sometimes no space. You park practically on the gravel road in the forest. But you can walk a bit, since you're hikers.
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| gandalf6. 07. 2017 |
Thanks for the reply. That's what I thought but better to ask.
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| darinka44. 08. 2017 |
Today we completed this demanding tour. Quite exposed. Caution is needed, especially due to the scree loaded on the path. Otherwise a very nice solitary tour with two natural windows.
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| Qlimac7. 06. 2018 |
What are the current conditions on this path to Rjavina?
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| nkamin24. 07. 2018 |
I need information about the condition of the road in Kot.... can you get there with a low car?
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| darinka424. 07. 2018 |
I don't know what low vehicle you mean? Definitely you can get there with a regular car.
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| malimiha24. 07. 2018 |
The road was in poor condition on 14.7 due to lots of rain and forest felling. I got stuck twice with my Berlingo
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| mailman24. 07. 2018 |
18.7. With Megane no problems. Otherwise the road is muddy, but 1st gear, maybe 2nd. In the morning forest workers are working, so be careful anyway.
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| nkamin24. 07. 2018 |
Thanks everyone for the info about the path
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| jozodozo16. 08. 2018 |
Last Thursday my colleague and I did a tour to Rjavina and Vrbanove Špice.
First, let me mention that the road to Kot is not yet in as bad condition as written here, nor did I notice places where one would get stuck.
In the lower part of the path everything dry, rocks dry and not greasy as you pointed out.
We did the first part via Vrbanove Špice on Lojze Rekar's path and descended to Stanič's hut. At the top of Visoka Vrbanova Špica the views are like few in our mountains. The path is adrenaline-pumping but I didn't feel the need to use SVK. We descended to the junction where the climbing path to Rjavina branches off. Very nice path, especially the last long exposed via ferrata.
If I were to choose these two peaks again, I would choose Julikino variant. After completing the path, we realized that given the current fitness, especially the last two hours downhill were a bit too much =) Overall, my currently most adrenaline-filled day in Slovenian mountains.
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| Moncsa12. 08. 2019 |
My goodness, after reading the comments, I got a bit scared. This weekend we're planning Rjavina (up the climbing path, down the ridge), but is it really that "adrenalin-packed"?
So far for me the most (physically) demanding were Hanzova on Prisank (down), and (technically) Velika Špica in the Julian Alps and Grintavec -> Češka koča in Kamnik Alps, both due to rather "sparse" protection. The mentioned ones are still doable, I don't know if Rjavina is still suitable or better stay home on my butt?
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| mirank12. 08. 2019 |
Just don't panic
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| jax13. 08. 2019 |
The climbing path to Rjavina is somewhat overrated in my opinion. It runs along the north wall in a fairly dark and serious environment, so one might get the feeling that the path is more demanding than it actually is. Technically nothing special, the passages are mostly easy and well protected (for example, the opposite Vrbanove špice are sunny and give a more "friendly" impression, but technically they are noticeably more demanding). In my opinion, the really hardest spot is that vertical chimney already up on the ridge, where the path joins the "normal" route from Staniča. That's really steep and you have to be careful. But it's doable.
In general, if you've done the paths mentioned below, there won't be problems here. The path is demanding, but shouldn't cause issues for a normally skilled mountaineer. And it's certainly easier than Hanzova.
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| Moncsa13. 08. 2019 |
You are quick with replies Thanks to both for the contribution. So there's no need to worry (although after seven years with small children, we're both a bit rusty).
Jax, since you mention Vrbanove špice: we miraculously got accommodation in the hut, so I was looking to maybe do a loop Dom V. Staniča - Vrbanove špice - Rjavina - Dom V. S.
I got some information that the trail from the hut to Rjavina and to Spodnja V. špica takes about 2 hours, but Sp. V. Š. - Rjavina (via the climbing route) is still unknown. Has anyone done this loop and has experience regarding time and difficulty? We're from Primorska, our hubby knows the area nil, but on the Gorenjska side we're clueless
Thanks in advance for the reply(ies).
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| skiro12316. 08. 2019 |
Monca, Sp. Vrbanova špica is more demanding if you approach it from Staniča, because you descend, but if you want to do a loop it's more sensible (as a counter), because there's less descending on pegs. The physical demand of the loop is on the level of all other two-thousanders in the area (and from the valley), but the descent from Sp. Vrbanova špica needs to be done with great care. Based on your described experiences, it's an excellent choice.
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| bbugari116. 08. 2019 |
Moncsa, I recommend the loop Stanič - Rjavina - Vrbanove (then also Cmir and Begunjski vrh)!
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| miratan2. 09. 2019 |
Hello
I'm wondering whether that chimney on Rjavina, secured only with pitons and stirrups, is really as terrifying as some say? I already have some mountain experience (Kopiščarjeva on Prisojnik, Jalovec via Jalovška škrbina, Škrlatica, Hanzlova on M. Mojstrovko, Silva Korena on Krn, Leva on Hude police, Slovenska on Mangart, Montaž via Findeneggov ozebnik and Pipanovo lestev...)
Do I really need to worry so much? We'd ascend via the climbing route, descend via the ridge.
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| magroman2. 09. 2019 |
Given the described secured paths you've hiked, there won't be any problem at all.
best regards,
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| hribovskodekle3. 07. 2020 |
Has anyone gone along this path recently? What's the condition of the snow fields like?
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| Tinca55. 07. 2020 |
There is no more snow on the path. However, at one spot where the path crosses a gully, the cable is broken and passage is difficult there.
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| Stefko9016. 07. 2020 |
Has anyone been on this path recently?
I'm wondering if the cable has been repaired yet, or if the damaged section isn't too demanding anyway
Thanks a lot
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| trdi7717. 07. 2020 |
Hi Stefko!
We did this route on Friday, 10.7.
The cable is torn at the start of the climbing path. You can cross it normally and hold onto the cable too. But be a bit careful, as there's some scree on the rocks when crossing. We three went across without issues. The rest of the path is fine, no snow. After summiting, we also went to Triglav. It took a while, but good company.
Best, safe steps
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| EvaSchmitt28. 07. 2020 |
The mentioned cable on the path has been repaired.
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| Gorska planika29. 07. 2020 |
Hi! What's the road to Kot like? Can you drive normal cars there? Thanks
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| turbo29. 07. 2020 |
On 14.7.2020 the road was normally drivable, at the end several personal vehicles of various makes. Perhaps someone will provide more up-to-date information
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| Nejc78731. 07. 2020 |
Hello. Has anyone been there in the last few days? Does the spring "work"? Thanks for info!
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| m_b2. 08. 2020 |
It works Verified yesterday.
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| pohodnik949. 07. 2021 11:08:59 |
Hello,
has anyone done this trail this year?
I'm wondering if the climbing section is already dry. Thanks!
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| FSkok8. 08. 2021 10:19:52 |
The vertical chimney from the last paragraph of the path description is secured with a steel cable since 6.8.21. We also replaced the transverse steel cable before the entry into the wall.
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| montura12. 08. 2021 00:09:15 |
That's excellent news up there! @FSkok, thanks for the info.
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| Tomaž0020. 08. 2022 07:47:37 |
How is the road to Kot valley drivable, and is parking crowded? Thanks
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| turbo20. 08. 2022 09:06:32 |
I was there early August, 2.8. The road was decently drivable (I have SUV, so no problems), no major potholes, but two large quite deep puddles on the road. At the end of the road, on parking, only "ordinary" vehicles of various makes and models, meaning it was doable or is. Not crowded because weekday, even after the tour the parking was quite empty, weekends I don't know.
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| Kafetarca18. 10. 2022 07:31:23 |
This climbing path to Rjavina... is it technically harder than to Škrlatica?
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| amarko5. 07. 2024 09:02:00 |
Has anyone gone this year up or down the climbing path, what's its condition?
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| Lota8. 07. 2024 12:14:42 |
Climbing section is nicely passable without features, no snow, road to Kot is also fine.
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| Tajka671. 09. 2024 19:20:23 |
Varied tour, up the climbing path and then towards Staničev dom along the ridge saddle. Still in the forest, the initial third of the path has one peg pulled out, which in dry weather doesn't matter, after rain as on Thursday though necessary. I had SVK, but now there's a rope in the chimney and it's much safer to climb. Beautiful, long, solitary tour.
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| zmp29. 06. 2025 10:37:48 |
Has anyone gone via the climbing and ridge path, what's the condition, conditions?
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| TineX11. 06. 2025 14:40:25 |
Yesterday 10.6 I was on Rjavina up this trail, it crosses some snow fields but nothing special, it's doable easily. Very nice tour, for the descent I went around, there were a bit more snow fields but still doable normally
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| zmp213. 06. 2025 06:09:17 |
Excellent, thanks
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