Koča pri Savici - Velika Zelnarica (via Štapce)

Access to starting point:
From the Ljubljana–Jesenice motorway, take the Lesce exit and follow the road towards Bled and onwards to Bohinjska Bistrica. Continue driving towards Lake Bohinj (Ribčev Laz), where you reach a crossroads and continue straight ahead along the left (southern) side of the lake in the direction of Ukanc and the Savica waterfall. Follow this increasingly narrow road to the large car park at Koča pri Savici. The car park is paid.

Path description:
From the car park, head right in the direction of Črno jezero, Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih and Hotel Zlatorog (straight ahead Slap Savica and Dom na Komni). The path initially follows a gravel road that crosses the Savica river over a bridge. Just beyond the bridge, signs for Komarča direct you left (straight ahead Hotel Zlatorog) onto an initially wide and relatively gentle forest path. The path soon begins to climb more steeply and a little higher brings you to the point where the path to the Savica spring and Velika Savica cave branches off to the left; continue right on the increasingly steep trail.
The well-maintained and relatively wide mountain path soon moves onto very steep and slippery slopes of Komarča, where there is also a high risk of falling rocks. The path continues steeply upwards along the mostly forested wall of Komarča, with fixed protections (mainly steel cables) assisting on the more difficult sections.
Higher up, some views open towards Bohinj, and the path leads to a short technically demanding section where, with the help of rungs and a steel cable, you cross a gully that is not particularly exposed. The path continues steeply for a while longer and, with the aid of protections, brings you to the edge of Komarča, from where a fine view opens to the starting point. A short moderately steep ascent follows, after which the path begins to descend gently towards Črno jezero, reached in less than five minutes of further walking.
Near the lake is a marked junction where the path to Planina Viševnik and Pršivec branches off to the right; continue slightly left along the marked trail that bypasses Črno jezero on the right side. On the opposite side of the lake, the path from Dom na Komni joins from the left; continue on the relatively gentle trail that follows the edge of Lopučniška dolina. Higher up, the path begins a moderate ascent and, along the edge of overhanging cliffs, leads to a small spring that dries up in dry periods.
Continue on the marked path, which near Bela skala turns sharply right and climbs steeply. After a few minutes of steep ascent, the path levels out and brings you to a marked junction where the path from Planina Blato (via Prode) joins from the right. Continue left towards Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih along the relatively gentle path, reaching Dvojno jezero in ten minutes. The marked trail bypasses the lake on the right and, before reaching the far side, leads to a junction where the path to Štapce and Mala Tičarica branches off to the right.
Continue right towards Štapce and Mala Tičarica (straight ahead Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih, five minutes) and ascend through a strip of sparse forest that ends among dwarf pines. A short ascent through dwarf pines follows, then the relatively steep path continues over scree. The increasingly scenic trail quickly brings you beneath the walls of Štapce, where it turns right and becomes technically more demanding. With the help of a ladder and steel cable, ascend transversely over a small wall, then the path leads into a notch where it turns left. A short secured steep ascent follows, and the path levels out at the Štapce pass, where there is a marked junction.
At Štapce, continue left towards Tičarice and Zelnarice (right Planina Ovčarija and Koča na Planini pri Jezeru) and continue the ascent along the path that first climbs through dwarf pines, then leads to a short steep and particularly slippery (when wet) step. Above the step, the path levels and moves onto moderately steep grassy slopes, ascending in a few minutes to a small saddle where a marked path branches left to Mala Tičarica (about ten minutes).
Continue towards Zelnarice on a relatively gentle path that first traverses the slopes of Mala Tičarica and then Velika Tičarica. A few tens of metres after the sign “Ne trgaj cvetja!” (inscription on the rock), a passage opens left to Velika Tičarica (about 15 minutes of demanding ascent); continue straight on the marked path, which reaches the main ridge north of Velika Tičarica.
Beyond Velika Tičarica, the path moves onto a broad grassy ridge along which you ascend. After a few minutes of easy walking, the path begins to climb steeply over partly grassy slopes. The steepness soon eases, and the path leads to vast meadows south of the precipitous and overhanging Kopica. Walk across the meadows to the foot of Kopica’s summit slope; upon reaching the edge of the wall, the marked path turns right and ascends transversely over small scree. Beyond the scree, the path turns left and begins a steep transverse ascent. At a small indistinct depression, the marked path approaches the ridge and turns slightly right.
Here a passage opens left to Kopica (about five minutes to the summit); continue on the marked path, which approaches the ridge and turns right. The path gradually moves onto very steep and slippery slopes; after about 30 metres of somewhat exposed terrain, the slope becomes less steep. A transverse ascent to the right follows, with the path leading slightly below the ridge; a little further on you reach the summit slope of Mala Zelnarica. Here the path again steepens and, after about 15 minutes of increasingly scenic walking, brings you to the summit of Mala Zelnarica, which offers an exceptional view towards the Triglav Lakes Valley.
From Mala Zelnarica continue slightly right along the marked path, which begins descending towards the Vrata pass, passing over a shorter section where slipping hazard is increased on the loose debris due to the steepness. Lower down, the path levels and turns slightly left, soon reaching the notch/saddle between the two Zelnaricas. From here continue only a few tens of metres on the marked path towards Vrata; when a fine passage opens to the left, leave the marked path and head left onto easier pathless terrain.
Continue off-trail (initially on a faint track) which in a few minutes of moderate ascent brings you to the somewhat exposed southern ridge of Velika Zelnarica. The way ahead follows along or slightly right of the ridge; the track sometimes disappears completely, but follow the ridge to the summit of Velika Zelnarica about 15 minutes away, offering fine views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Starting point – edge of Komarča 1:35, edge of Komarča – Črno jezero 0:05, Črno jezero – junction above Lopučniška dolina 1:15, junction above Lopučniška dolina – Dvojno jezero 0:10, Dvojno jezero – Štapce 0:30, Štapce – junction below Mala Tičarica 0:25, junction below Mala Tičarica – branch to Velika Tičarica 0:20, branch to Velika Tičarica – branch to Kopica 0:50, branch to Kopica – Mala Zelnarica 0:45, Mala Zelnarica – saddle between the Zelnaricas 0:15, saddle between the Zelnaricas – Velika Zelnarica 0:20.

On the way: Komarča (810m), Rob Komarče (1295m), Vrh Komarče (1313m), Mala Zelnarica (2310m), Črno jezero (1294m), Bela skala (1575m), Razpotje nad Lopučniško dolino (1671m), Ruski grob (1686m), Dvojno jezero (1689m), Štapce (1851m), Razpotje pod Malo Tičarico (2008m), Odcep za Veliko Tičarico (2020m), Odcep za Kopico (2168m), Mala Zelnarica (2310m), Sedlo med Zelnaricama (2222m)