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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Divja koza / Mrzla Voda (dolina) - Divja koza (via Trbiška škrbina)

Mrzla Voda (dolina) - Divja koza (via Trbiška škrbina)

Starting point: Mrzla Voda (dolina) (1012 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.44381°N 13.53789°E 
Destination: Divja koza (2507 m)
Path name: via Trbiška škrbina
Time of walking: 14 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult unmarked way
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 1495 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1495 m
Map:
Author: SR77
Views: 919
Trip rating: 1 votes
Number of pictures: 0
Access to starting point:
From the highway LJ - BE (Ljubljana - Beljak), we exit at Jesenice towards Kranjska Gora. We drive past Kranjska Gora to Rateče and then continue towards Trbiž. At Trbiž, we turn towards Rabelj and follow the main road to the village Mrzla Voda, where we turn right into the valley. We follow the road to the starting point at the end of the valley at the church.
And if we drive from the direction GO - TB (Gorica - Trbiž), in Bovec we head towards Log pod Mangartom and continue to the mountain pass Predel. From there, we descend into the Jezerska dolina valley to Rabelj, then follow the main road towards Trbiž to the village Mrzla Voda, where we turn left into the Mrzle Vode valley and follow the road to the end of the valley, where our starting point is at the church.
Path description:
WARNING! The path is very demanding both orientationally and technically, it is very strenuous and long.
When the road starts ascending towards saddle Prašnikovo sedlo, we need to pay attention to turn off footpath 618, which otherwise leads through notch Žabniška škrbina towards the mountain hut Pellarini, but in the valley of Mrzle vode there are nice waterfalls Pod stenama and Lojtricnje. Already before the mentioned notch, we go to the left on path 627 towards the notch Trbiška škrbinica. Below on the road, we have to pay attention not to turn too soon. This is the path which runs along the stream Beli potok and downwards towards the mountain hut Brunner. If we finally manage to turn onto this path, we can ascend to the notch Trbiška škrbinica on the scree below the steep walls of Mala and Velika Lojtrica and Krniška špica, or we follow the connecting path between the two. If anyone thinks that this has been a little – actually quite a lot – complicated, let them view the Tabacco map 1:25,000, and everything will immediately become clear.
Marked and secured path 627 from Trbiška krnica, as the wild gable is called, leads through the valley of Mrzle vode between Krniška špica, Divja koza, and Zadnja Lastavica, not directly to the notch Trbiška škrbinica, but around the corner. In the steep and crumbly gully, fixed safety gear has repeatedly been subject to destruction, so a few years ago the path was rerouted over a notch east of the notch Trbiška škrbinica, which is considered the lowest point between Krniška špica and Divja koza. Next to the new blazes, which clearly invite to the left (eastern) gully, on a rock by the old path there is also a clear caption: »NE!« To be honest, we must say that the alternative gully is hardly more accessible than Prednje Lastavice. From the really narrow, carved, unnamed (?) notch, we see Viška planina and a glimpse of the Kanin mountains. With the help of fixed safety gear, we descend a few meters, then cross exposed terrain to the right to the notch Trbiška škrbinica, where we again reach the old path.
On the notch Trbiška škrbinica, we join the path that comes here from the mountain hut Corsi. We follow the diagonal secured path Anita Goitan, which is hidden in ledges below Divja koza. Through the gully towards the notch is one of the most difficult parts – a narrow and precipitous, but well-secured ledge. We cross almost to the notch between Divja koza and Mala špica. Towards the right upwards, a well-visible gully opens, which we enter on the ledge from the left side. To the top, we have to climb some bands of 2nd grade of climbing. For easier orientation, red blazes help, but we should not rely on them too much, as they are mostly already very faded. The higher we ascend, the easier the terrain becomes. On the summit, we will be greeted by a magnificent view of the wilderness of the Western Julian Alps.
DESCENT!: In the valley, we can return on the same route, or on the descent from Divja koza, we continue on the path Anita Goitan to the normal path on Viš, which we join at Gamsova mati, Krniška špica above Galerija. In between, we can also ascend Gamsova mati and Turn – best through the gully between them – and even earlier on Mala špica, but the latter is very hard to access. Without a mountain guide, I don’t recommend ascending to the summit. The easiest direction is a solid third grade of climbing. Whoever ascends to the path on Viš will find it very hard to return to the valley of Mrzle vode in the same day. Overnight stays are recommended in the friendly mountain hut Corsi. To the notch Trbiška škrbinica, we ascend on footpath 627; further into the valley, we return on the same path.
Pictures:
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