Mrzla Voda (dolina) - Divja koza (via Trbiška škrbina)
Starting point: Mrzla Voda (dolina) (1012 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,44381°N 13,53789°E |
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Route name: via Trbiška škrbina
Walking time: 14 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult unmarked way
Elevation gain: 1495 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1495 m
Map:
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
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Access to starting point:
From the highway LJ - BE (Ljubljana - Beljak), we exit at Jesenice towards Kranjska Gora. We drive past Kranjska Gora to Rateče and then continue towards Trbiž. At Trbiž, we turn towards Rabelj and follow the main road to the village Mrzla Voda, where we turn right into the valley. We follow the road to the starting point at the end of the valley at the church.
And if we drive from the direction GO - TB (Gorica - Trbiž), in Bovec we head towards Log pod Mangartom and continue to the Predel pass. From there, we descend into the Jezersko valley to Rablj and then follow the main road towards Trbiž to the village Mrzla Voda, where we turn left into the Mrzla Vode valley and follow the road to the end of the valley, where our starting point is at the church.
Route description:
WARNING! The path is very demanding both orientationally and technically, it is very strenuous and long.
When the road starts ascending towards Prašnikovo sedlo saddle, we need to pay attention to the turn-off of footpath 618, which otherwise leads through Žabniška škrbina notch towards Pellarini hut, but also in the Mrzla Vode valley there are nice waterfalls under the walls of both Lojtricnje. Already before the mentioned notch we go left onto path 627 towards Trbiška škrbinica notch. Below on the road, we must pay attention not to turn off it too early. That is the path that leads to Škrbina Belega potoka and downhill towards Brunner hut. If we nevertheless “succeed” in turning onto that path, we can climb to the path to Trbiška škrbinica via scree under the steep walls of Mala and Velika Lojtrica and Krniška špica or follow the “connecting path” between them. If anyone thinks I have complicated this a little – actually quite a lot – let them look at the Tabacco 1:25,000 map and everything will become clear immediately.
Marked and secured path 627 from Trbiška krnica, which is the name of the wild headwall, leads through the Mrzla Vode valley between Krniška špica, Divja koza and Zadnje Lastavice, no longer directly to Trbiška škrbinica notch but reaches it around the corner. In the steep and crumbly gully the safety gear was repeatedly destroyed, so a few years ago the path was rerouted over the notch east of Trbiška škrbinica, considered the lowest point between Krniška špica and Divja koza. In addition to the new blazes that eloquently invite into the left (eastern) gully, there is also a clear inscription on the rock by the old path: “NE!”. In truth, even the “replacement” gully is anything but easily passable. From the really narrow incised unnamed (?) notch we glimpse Viška planina and a bit of the Kanin mountains. With the help of safety gear we descend a few meters, then exposed we traverse right to Trbiška škrbinica, where we reach the old path again.
On Trbiška škrbinica notch we join the path leading here from Corsi hut. We follow the secured traversing path Anita Goitan, which conceals in ledges under Divja koza one of the most difficult parts – narrow and sheer, but well secured ledge. We traverse almost to the notch between it and Mala špica. To the right upwards a well visible gully opens, into which we enter via the ledge from the left side. To the top we must climb a few ledges of second difficulty degree. Red blazes provide easier orientation, but it is not advisable to rely on them too much as they are mostly very faded. The higher we climb, the easier the terrain. On the summit a magnificent wilderness of the Western Julian Alps will unfold before us (after all we are on a wild peak).
DESCENT!: We can return to the valley via the same route or after descending from Divja koza continue along Anita Goitan path to the normal path to Viš, to which we join at Gamsova mati Krniška špica above Galerija. In between we can also climb Gamsova mati and Turn – best via the gully between them – and even before that Mala špica, but the latter is very difficult to access. Without a mountain guide I advise against the ascent to the summit. The easiest route is solid third degree. Whoever after traversing to the path to Viš also climbs it will hardly return to Mrzla Vode valley on the same day. I recommend overnighting in the friendly Corsi hut. To Trbiška škrbinica we ascend via trail 627, further to the valley we return via the same path.

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