Planina Zajzera - Jôf di Montasio/Montaž (Via Amalia)

Access to starting point:
From Kranjska Gora, via the border crossing at Rateče, we drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio. Further on, we drive on the old road towards Videm / Udine. Already after a few kilometers from Trbiž / Tarvisio, the road into Ovčja vas / Valbruna branches off to the left. Here we turn left and follow the road all the way to the mountain pasture Zajzera, where we park on a large parking lot.

Path description:
From the parking lot, we head onto the road closed to traffic following the signs for Bivacco Mazzeni, Bivacco Stuparich. The road first slightly descends and then leads us through the forest. Soon we come out of the forest to a wide stream bed, where a huge amount of sand is deposited. Here the path is somewhat less visible, and we cross the sandy terrain slightly to the right. The path then brings us to a junction, where we go right following the signs Bivacco Stuparich. With the help of some cairns we again cross the torrent to the right, and then the path brings us into the forest. The path through the forest soon starts to ascend quite steeply, then turns to the left, and soon nice views open up to the walls of Montaž. The path further leads along the stream bed past some bushes and dwarf pines and brings us to a junction. We continue to the left following the signs Stuparich, and to the right the path leads towards the mountain hut Grego.

Here the path turns to the left and starts ascending in zigzags through sparse forest on the left side of the valley. Such a path brings us again to a junction. We go left towards bivouac Stuparich, while to the right the path leads towards Dunjska dolina. Further on, the path starts crossing the slope towards the east and soon brings us to bivouac Stuparich.

From the bivouac, we return a few meters back, where an inscription on a large rock directs us right upwards (southwest). The path left downwards (southeast) leads towards bivouac Mazzeni.

For a short time we then ascend on a somewhat overgrown path through bushes, then the path brings us to the bed of a torrent. Here we turn left and ascend along the right side of the torrent bed upwards. Trail markers are scarce here, but numerous cairns help us. The path then turns right and crosses the slopes below Montaž towards the west all the way to the start of the climbing section.

The climbing path at first turns left into the wall and starts ascending in steep zigzags along the steel cable, aided also by some pegs. At some points the path rises almost vertically. The path then turns right and ascends very steeply along the steel cable upwards. This is followed by a vertical ascent aided by numerous brackets, which brings us to a narrow notch. Through the notch we slightly descend, then follows a demanding vertical ascent left upwards. In addition to the steel cable, some pegs also assist the ascent.

Further on the path becomes somewhat less demanding and starts ascending along the steel cable up a fairly wide gully. The path then turns left and for a short time brings us onto a level grassy slope, after which it resumes ascending up the rocky slope. Further on, the path ascends quite steeply several more times along the steel cable, aided by some brackets. The path then brings us below Severni stolp (Torre Nord), where it turns right. Here we cross steep slopes towards the west; in early summer there are often snow patches here. This is followed by ascent up steep grassy slopes and then ascent along the steel cable up a slightly crumbly slope. Such a path then brings us to a narrow ridge from where beautiful views also open towards the west. A short ascent along the ridge follows, then the path turns to the west side and starts descending a steep grassy slope. Further on, the path crosses slopes towards the south for some time, then turns left and ascends somewhat more steeply up the rocky slope. To bivouac Suringar only a short traverse along the ledge to the right remains.

From the bivouac we continue south and cross the western slopes for a short time more, then reach a junction where the markers direct us left upwards. The path, marked with red dots, starts ascending quite steeply and brings us into the Findenegg couloir. The ascent through the couloir is relatively steep and exposed to falling rocks. The path on this section is unsecured, and most of it is first-degree climbing, with a short section also second-degree.

At the exit from the couloir the path becomes somewhat crumbly, so we must be careful not to dislodge rocks. Further on, the path brings us to an exposed ridge along which we soon reach the panoramic summit.

Descent is possible via the ascent route. However, since this is a long and extremely demanding path, it is recommended to arrange transport from mountain pasture Pecol and descend via the usual south path over Pipan's ladder.

On the way: Bivacco Stuparich (1587m), Bivacco Suringar (2430m)