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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Veliki Oltar / Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Veliki Oltar (via bivouac)

Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Veliki Oltar (via bivouac)

Starting point: Poldov rovt (Vrata) (941 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4216°N 13.86289°E 
Path name: via bivouac
Time of walking: 6 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: very demanding
Altitude difference: 1680 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1680 m
Map: Tiglav 1:25.000
Views: 57,145
Trip rating: 10 votes
Number of pictures: 46
Access to starting point:
We drive to Mojstrana, and then we follow the signs for valley Vrata. Further, we drive through the valley Vrata, about 100 meters before the road sign 10 km, we will notice a cart track which branches off right perpendicularly on the main road. Here is the beginning of the described path. Marked parking lot on which it is allowed to park is situated approximately 500 meters ahead on the main road.
Path description:
We go on a cart track which runs into the forest and then past a smaller house, where we continue slightly to the left on a footpath. Through the forest, we are ascending slightly to the left towards the stream Rdeči potok. A little before the stream, the path over Brinje branches off to the right (placed cairn, and on the tree is carved some kind of face and letter L). The path then brings us to a riverbed of the stream. Here the path goes on the right side (left bank) upwards and then it soon crosses the stream on the left side. The path is ascending through a small valley until we get to a smaller mountain wall, where we usually also run into a well. The path goes from here right and on a natural passage steeply ascends. Slightly exposed and not secured. We are above the small waterfall (if there is water). Here we come out of the forest and we ascend on some scree. The path on the scree isn't comfortable because storms and avalanches every year wreck the path. The path soon turns slightly to the right and for a short time ascends on a grassy slope. Next again follows the ascent by the scree and we soon come to bivouac Bivak na Jezerih, which we will notice on our left. Here we can sleep or only shelter in case of a storm. Here the terrain flattens. A view on Triglav is from here very nice.
The path from here ahead is slowly vanishing but we can still follow it. We walk on a meadow named Na Jezerih (here supposedly used to be a lake). The path here turns slightly towards the right. Straight in front of us we see Dovški Križ. And our path goes into a wall a little left from Dovški Križ. We look for the path which goes on steep slopes. The path isn't hard to find because by the path are placed cairns. Here the path becomes quite demanding. First, we steeply ascend on a rocky slope, and then follows exposed crossing to the left without any fixed safety gear. In wet great risk of slipping. When we overcome this rocky jump we come on the ridge. Here we go left and descend a little on a saddle Grlo. We come on the scree below Oltar on which we start ascending. We notice a distinct gully (straight) and go towards it. We follow cairns, which point us a little left from the gully. The slope is becoming increasingly steep and also slightly crumbly. Towards the top we again go towards the right, so that we reach the main ridge exactly above the notch. Here we continue few meters on the northern side of the ridge and then again ascend on the ridge. Next follows only few meters of walking on exposed ridge to the top.

The ascent on Oltar is very demanding pathless terrain with climbing to 2nd grade. Highly recommended is use of belaying.

Despite numerous cairns, which help us finding easier passages, the orientation is still demanding.
On the way: Bivak na Jezerih (2118m), Grlo (2429m)
Pictures:
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Veliki Oltar1
Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Veliki Oltar2
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