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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Visoki Rokav / Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav

Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav

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Starting point: Poldov rovt (Vrata) (941 m)
Walking time: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Elevation gain: 1705 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1705 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 45.496
 7 people like this post
Number of photos: 0
Number of comments: 25
Access to starting point:
Drive to Mojstrana, then follow the signs for the Vrata valley. Continue driving through the Vrata valley; about 200 meters before the 10 km road sign, you will see a cairn and a dirt road on the right where the described route begins.
Route description:
Head onto the dirt road leading into the forest and then past a small house, where we continue slightly left onto a footpath. Through the forest we ascend slightly left toward Rdeči potok. Just before the stream a path branches right across Brinje (a cairn is placed there, and a face-like carving with the letter L is cut into a tree). The path then leads to the stream bed. Here the route goes up the right side (left bank) and soon crosses the stream to the left side. The path climbs through the small valley until a small wall blocks the way, where a spring is usually encountered. From here the path turns right and ascends steeply via a natural passage. It is slightly exposed and not secured. We are above a small waterfall (if there is water). We emerge from the forest and climb across some scree. The path across the scree is not comfortable as storms and avalanches destroy it every year. The path soon turns slightly right and ascends briefly over a grassy slope. Another ascent follows alongside scree and we soon reach the bivouac at Jezerih, visible on our left.
Here we can spend the night or simply wait out a storm. The terrain levels out. The view of Triglav from here is very beautiful.
The path from the bivouac onward slowly disappears but can still be followed. We walk across the meadow called Na Jezerih (a lake is said to have been here once). Soon on the left we see a rather uninviting steep and narrow couloir. Our goal is now the saddle between Srednji Rokav and Visoki Rokav, reached by a steep ascent through crumbly and often icy couloir (the climb is easier when snow remains in it). Ice axe, crampons and helmet are mandatory equipment on this section. When we step onto the saddle (notch) a view of Škrlatica opens up (access from this side is also possible). Ahead begins the climbing part of the tour, where the difficulty often reaches grade 3. For further ascent we will need a harness and rope.
Shortly before the notch in the direction of ascent from the Jezerih side, we will notice a steep chimney on our right, which we climb one level higher with the help of a piton (it assists in belaying with the rope). The route then moves onto the ridge and we continue ascending along and beside it. Difficulties on the exposed ridge occasionally still exceed grade 2. A little below the summit the steepness eases and an increasingly scenic "path" quickly leads us to the panoramic summit.

The route through the Rokavski couloir is often icy and prone to slips. Due to great technical difficulties in the upper part of the mountain, undertake this route only with proper equipment and in stable weather. Set out on this route with someone who has already been to the summit, preferably with a mountain guide.
route map - Visoki Rokav
Along the route: Bivak na Jezerih (2118m)
We recommend: similar trips
Photos:
Discussion about the trip Poldov rovt (Vrata) - Visoki Rokav
skrabeljcek17. 08. 2006
I recommend the ascent to the middle/high Rokav at a time when there is snow in the gully. Without snow, the ascent to the saddle can be very annoying. You don't go further along the ridge, but a few dozen meters below the saddle (towards Jezerca) you see a chimney. Further, the ascent is clear. Accompaniment by an alpinist is mandatory!!!
sector7. 09. 2007
I'd say. I was accompanied by two alpinists, otherwise it would be impossible...eek
Pobesneli delfin19. 03. 2008
No making things up please, the Matterhorn on maps has already done enough damage. The real name of the "Slovenian Matterhorn" is Skala!
LP!
Nickster28. 07. 2008
When you're at the top, the best is to hire a helicopter for the return to the valley!eek
sk214. 06. 2009
Yesterday I took my daughter and a colleague, I must say that the second chimney, despite its steepness, is still the easiest compared to the rest of the section to the top. The problem is the friability, you really have to be careful where you step, no variants to avoid dislodging stones.
Jacek15. 02. 2010
In one nice guidebook we can read: From Kotla (descent into it without climbing from the path to Škarlatica) there is a short but steep ascent to the saddle between Srednji and Visoki Rokav, from where both these peaks are best accessible. Has anyone perhaps gone to Visoki Rokav from that direction? Is it possible to reach the summit without major difficulties or climbing?
Gorazd G15. 02. 2010
>Can you reach the summit without major difficulties or climbing?

Depends what "major difficulties" are for you, but definitely not without climbing. From Kotla to Rokavsko škrbino there is (short) II-grade climbing, from it to V. Rokav III grade - of course on the easiest route, which you have to 'hit'. Crumbly! Rope, helmet and plenty of experience. If you don't have alpine knowledge, mountain guide escort is essential. This of course applies to ascent in dry summer conditions, in winter you need much more ...

Good luck!
JusAvgustin16. 02. 2010
Rokav is not reachable without climbing, Gorazd already told you. It doesn't have such reputation for nothing. Very few people have been up there, nor crossed the Rokavi and Široka peč. These count as alpinistic ascents unparalleled in Slovenia. Otherwise you have nice descriptions in books Grebeni slovenskih gora, Slovenske stene, Severni pristopi and much more can be found... anyway Martuljške mountains in winter are one or two grades harder than in summer.
Be smart!nasmeh
JusAvgustin29. 07. 2010
Yesterday climbed to Rokav from Oltar. Essential gear: rope (60m), ice axe, crampons, some prusik or climbing sling, harness. Watch out! extremely crumbly, orientationally demanding, physically and mentally exhausting. No protection, where there's abseil there's a peg! Descent from Rokav via 4 abseils, conditions in the glacier bad, little snow, crampons don't bite as they should, steep glacier, option to abseil on the right side (viewed from below upwards) to the end of the glacier. Very tricky to walk, high risk of slipping. But the feeling is fantastic.
skrajnik13. 08. 2012
Does anyone have any "fresh" info or picture of the condition in the Rokavski glacier?
funnyboy1. 08. 2013
On Tuesday, 30.7. we headed to Visoki Rokav. The path to the glacier is without special features. Below the glacier snow appears, but there's not much left anymore. If anyone plans to go up there, hurry up. I warn that there is extreme danger of falling rocks in the glacier!!! During our ascent rocks fell every 5-10 minutes, so we hurried a bit. The continued ascent to the summit is very crumbly, so take care. Some sections are quite solid III., so a certain level of experience is needed. We met no one.

Complete tour that offers lots of enjoyment if you're up to it.
Pictures and a few more words about the tour at

http://graheljsblog.blogspot.com/2013/08/za-uverturo-v-maidene-na-visoki-rokav.html



Jonny_10. 06. 2014
On Saturday, 7.6., on this tour. I can only say: AWESOME! A tour that gives you satisfaction, joy, euphoria, everything. Serious tour, worth every effort, nerve, and step.

More in the album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117716969375992242593/VisokiRokav762014?noredirect=1
VesnaM13. 05. 2015
Summit logbook still not there.
Glacier flooded, quite hard in the morning, slushy in the afternoon. Snow only higher up from the bivouac.
But the tour is beautiful, wild, solitary.
JusAvgustin13. 05. 2015
Aren't we worthy of pictures?
VesnaM14. 05. 2015
Can't post them here, those who needed them have already written to me and got them by email.
I wrote about the conditions.
Branee14. 05. 2015
Too bad you don't post them under current conditions. There are relatively few such posts but they are very welcome, otherwise I'm planning to go there at the beginning of next week too nasmeh
VesnaM14. 05. 2015
Still better than nothing.
If you go up, you can also bring the logbook nasmeh
good luck
Branee14. 05. 2015
I'll make an effort for the logbook nasmeh And I'll be the first inside :p
JusAvgustin14. 05. 2015
And sacrifice one more Tupperware container so it looks proper... Vesna, if you posted this under current conditions, you could add pictures too. I have a feeling you don't want to search the portal and in that case post under commented trips and not under: http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=759

2 seconds of time...cool
Branee14. 05. 2015
I'll give one for salami nasmeh.(hec) I have a bunch at home, I'll take one.
kolpa10. 08. 2019
Hello!
Please provide "fresh" information on the condition in the Rokavski glacier and which route is currently more suitable for access to the saddle between Srednji and Visoki Rokav, via Kotle or from Jezera. Thanks for the reply and best regards.
Dr_Ursic1. 09. 2019
Hi,
Was yesterday on Visoki Rokav. The glacier is without peculiarities. Lots of crumbly rock. For descent on it, anchors are placed in places for "abseil".

Rokavski glacier

LPD
metod21. 08. 2020
Very demanding ascent for an amateur. Significantly harder than to Oltar. Today ascent through the glacier was practically impossible. We knew that and went via Kotel. Above the glacier there's as much scree as you want. You have to be 150% focused and even the rope triggers rocks. We descended through the glacier, along the edge of the snowfield, with abseil, so as not to trigger rocks and stones. If there were other hikers there, it would have been very awkward.
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