Rifugio Auronzo - Torre di Toblin / Toblinger Knoten
Starting point: Rifugio Auronzo (2320 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,6122°N 12,2941°E |
| |
Walking time: 2 h 10 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Via ferrata: C
Elevation gain: 297 m
Elevation difference along the route: 297 m
Map: Tabacco 10 1:25.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 9.914
 | 3 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
Access from Gorenjska: Via the Rateče border crossing, we drive to Trbiž / Tarvisio, where we head onto the motorway in the direction of Vidma / Udine. We leave the motorway at the Tolmezzo exit and follow the road to the mentioned settlement. From Tolmezzo we continue in the direction of the settlement Ampezzo and mountain pass Passo della Mauria. The road then starts descending and brings us into the Cadore valley, where we continue right (left Belluno and Cortina d'Ampezzo) in the direction of the settlement Auronzo. After a few additional km of driving, we come to the next bigger crossroad, where we go right in the direction of Austria and Tre Cime (left Cortina d'Ampezzo). We leave the road towards Austria after another some 100m, because signs for Tre Cime point us to the right on a toll mountain road which after 7km brings us to a large parking lot near the mountain hut Rifugio Auronzo.
From Primorska side: We drive on the motorway which leads over the Sežana border crossing to Trst / Trieste. Further, we drive on the Italian motorway in the direction of Padua, but only to a motorway junction, where we continue in the direction of Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno the motorway ends, and we continue in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo. When the road brings us into the Cadore valley we will get to a bigger crossroad, where the road goes towards Cortina d'Ampezzo left, and towards Auronzo right. Here we continue right towards Auronzo. Further, we follow the above description.
Route description:
At Rifugio Auronzo we head onto the macadam road which leads towards Rifugio Lavaredo slightly towards the east. After approximately 20 minutes of walking on a very panoramic road which leads below the mighty walls of Tre Cime we arrive at Rifugio Lavaredo.
From the hut we continue slightly to the left and start to ascend the scree towards the notch (Forcella Lavaredo) between Monte Paterno and Tre Cime. At the notch where there is a path junction, we take the wide path, which from the notch starts to descend slightly towards the north. To the right branches off the path to Monte Paterno from the south side and path 104, which starts descending towards the east. On the descent towards Rifugio Locatelli we can choose the lower wide path or the upper somewhat harder one, which crosses the slopes below the west wall of Monte Paterno. At the hut, from where there is a very nice view of Monte Paterno and Tre Cime, the two paths join again.
From the hut we continue towards the north past the chapel by which we will notice a signpost which directs us towards the via ferrata Torre di Toblin. The path then runs on the right side of the mountain Sasso di Sesto towards the north and is marked with red triangles. Later the path turns to the left and follows a short ascent to the saddle between the summits Sasso di Sesto and Torre di Toblin. At the saddle we continue slightly to the right and cross the slopes below the west wall of the summit Torre di Toblin. The path then brings us to the north side, where we enter the climbing section of the path.
At the beginning the path steeply climbs along the cable right upwards. Further the path runs along a steep gully and ascends vertically several times up the ladder. Because the path is usually quite crowded, the danger of falling rocks is high. Later the path turns slightly to the left and crosses the vertical slope on pegs. Further some vertical climbs on the ladder follow, after which we soon reach the very panoramic summit.
We descend on a somewhat easier but still very demanding path, which initially briefly follows the south ridge then descends to the east side. Further we steeply descend along the cable downwards, along the path we will also notice some tunnels from the First World War. The steep path then brings us to the scree on the east side of the mountain from where we continue right towards the south and descend to Rifugio Locatelli.
Because the path is usually very crowded, do not ascend in the reverse direction as described above. For this reason the descent path in the lower part is not marked.
Photos:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
Discussion about the trip Rifugio Auronzo - Torre di Toblin / Toblinger Knoten
|
| Hribolaznik10. 08. 2014 |
Yesterday (09.08.2014) on Torre di Toblin. The via ferrata itself took us 1 hour (with obligatory photo stops of course). Very technical via ferrata with lots of ladders. In between there are sections with awkward holds and a section where you need to make quite a big straddle between the walls and pull yourself onto the left wall. The safety rope for self-belaying is present everywhere. Descent via the other route is easier and faster. Very nice views of the surrounding mountains, but it's true that this "artificial" via ferrata spoils the idyll of the park itself, which is generally a problem with all such forcibly routed mountain paths. I recommend checking the weather forecast carefully, taking only a small backpack for the via ferrata itself, and at the end heading to the nearby Monte Paterno. Both together are not too tiring and possible in one day. LP 
|
|
|
To post a comment you must log in:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.