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Mountain ranges / Dolomites / Torre Aglio / Rifugio Dibona - Torre Aglio (Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio)

Rifugio Dibona - Torre Aglio (Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio)

Starting point: Rifugio Dibona (2083 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.5326°N 12.0703°E 
Path name: Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio
Time of walking: 4 h 15 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferrata: D
Difficulty of skiing: no data
Altitude difference: 897 m
Altitude difference (by path): 930 m
Map: Tabacco 03 1:25.000
Views: 4,022
Trip rating: 2 votes
Number of pictures: 88
Access to starting point:
First, we drive to Cortina d'Ampezzo (to here possible over a border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then on a highway in the direction of Videm / Udine to exit Tolmezzo. From Tolmezzo we follow the road in the direction of village Ampezzo and mountain pass Passo Mauria. The road then descends and it brings us to a crossroad, where we continue left (possible also right) in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all next crossroads, we follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo. Or from Primorska side, where we drive on a highway in the direction of Trst / Trieste. Further, we drive on Italian highway in the direction of Padova, but only to a highway junction, where we continue in the direction of Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno the highway ends, and at the next crossroads we continue in the direction of Cortina d'Ampezzo and then we follow the signs for Alpine mountain pass Passo di Falzarego. This ascending road we then follow to the spot, where the road in the direction of the mountain hut rifugio Dibona branches off to the right (turn off is at an altitude approx 1700 meters). At first asphalt road higher brings us on a crossroad, where we continue on the left bottom road (right mountain hut Duca d'Aosta) and we follow it to the parking lot behind the mountain hut Dibona.
Path description:
From the parking lot, we continue on a macadam road past a gate. We follow this road to a crossroad with signposts, where we go right on a wide mule track following the signs »Rif. Camillo Giussani«. A wide path is then slowly ascending and at the left turn brings us to a marked crossing.
Ahead upwards runs the path towards the mountain hut Camillo Giussani, and we go right towards the mountain hut Pomedes. The path at first crosses scree below the steep walls towards the east and it quickly brings us to the beginning of the secured path Via ferrata Astaldi. The secured path on ledges crosses the south wall of the peak Punta Anna. The path is well secured with a steel cable and technically isn't too demanding. The secured path soon ends and from the right joins easier path (number 421) from the mountain hut Dibona. Next follows an ascent by dwarf pines and a panoramic path soon brings us to the mountain hut Pomedes.
From the mountain hut, we continue left following the signs »Via Ferrata Punta Anna«. The path leads us past the upper station of the cableway and then it ascends on the scree upwards to the entry of a climbing part of the path.
The climbing path in the first part in ascent crosses wall a little to the left and in doing so few times steeply ascends. Further, the path becomes even a little more demanding and almost vertically ascends towards the ridge. Next follows an ascent on very panoramic and also exposed ridge. The difficulty is still not decreasing and the path still mostly runs on a ridge, only on some spots avoids the ridge on the left western side. Later, the ridge becomes a little less steep and then follows a little less demanding, but an unsecured ascent to the top of Punta Anna.
From the top, we continue on the ridge and soon from the left joins the path from the mountain hut Camillo Giussani. From the crossing for a short time, we walk by the ridge and then the path turns to the right and it ascends diagonally through a steep groove. The path then brings us on the east less steep slopes, where we soon come to a crossing. Right downwards leads the path Giuseppe Olivieri back towards the mountain hut Pomedes and the path towards the mountain hut Ra Valles where there is a midway station of the cable car.
We continue left on the path Ferrata Gianni Aglio where caption »cima« point us to. Next follows less demanding ascent towards the ridge. On the ridge, we continue right and the path again becomes a little more demanding. Few times we vertically ascend and we also get help from few stemples and ladder. The path then avoids the ridge on the left side and it brings us to the notch below the tower Torre Aglio. From the notch follows a demanding vertical ascent and then a short exposed crossing on iron spikes, which brings us to a crossing.
Straight leads the path towards Tofana di Mezzo, and we continue left by the steel cable steeply upwards. The steep ascent by the steel cable isn't too long and in few minutes brings us on very panoramic peak.
The described path is extremely demanding and it is appropriate only for experienced mountaineers who are fit enough with mandatory use of self belaying.
From the top, we can descend by returning a little back and we descend on the path Giuseppe Olivieri back towards the mountain hut Pomedes. The second option is that we continue towards Tofana di Mezzo and from there we descend with the help of the cable car.
On the way: Rifugio Pomedes (2203m), Punta Anna (2731m)
Pictures:
Rifugio Dibona - Torre Aglio1
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