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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Rjavina / The Kot Valley - Rjavina (ridge crossing Macesnovec-Rjavina)

The Kot Valley - Rjavina (ridge crossing Macesnovec-Rjavina)

Starting point: The Kot Valley (950 m)
Starting point Lat/Lon: 46.4157°N 13.8977°E 
Destination: Rjavina (2532 m)
Path name: ridge crossing Macesnovec-Rjavina
Time of walking: 8 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Difficulty of skiing: very demanding
Altitude difference: 1582 m
Altitude difference (by path): 1750 m
Map: Triglav 1:25.000
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 10,339
Trip rating: 4 votes
Number of pictures: 19
Access to starting point:
We leave Gorenjska highway at exit Hrušica and follow the road ahead in the direction of Kranjska Gora. Just a little before the village Dovje the road which goes to Mojstrana (Vrata, Kot and Krma) branches off to the left. We follow the road ahead in the direction of village Radovna and the valleys Krma and Kot. The relatively steep road then runs past the TNP sign, behind which the road soon flattens and it brings us to a crossroad, where a macadam road into a valley Kot branches off to the right (straight Radovna and Krma). This occasionally a bit rough road, we then follow to the parking lot, where we also notice mountain signposts.
Path description:
From the parking lot at first we quite some time walk on a marked path which leads to mountan hut Staničeva koča. The path is in parts slightly exposed, on the most exposed spots secured with some iron spikes and two steel cables.
When we come to a well, which we notice on the left side by the path (a short gutter is placed there, that we can pour water, next to a smaller rock caption "drži čistočo" (keep it clean)), we need to pay attention: about 50 meters ahead from the marked path, unmarked path branches off left upwards, namely just before a marked path turns right through torrent gully.
Unmarked, but well visible footpath quite steeply ascends towards the large scree, and soon it splits into two - right (upper) and left (bottom). Both footpaths higher on the path again join. Bottom (left) is ascending quite steadily over the scree and among dwarf pines (often marked with cairns), upper (right) at first quite steeply ascends on the scree, and then leads in light ascent, without large distinct ascents to the spot, where both paths join again. The path from here further runs mostly very steeply on a slope, in thin larch forest and dwarf pines on quite some spots is exposed (dangerous for slipping), but all the time easy to follow. A little below the summit, the path passes over the ridge on the other side (so far we were on a slope above Kot, and from there further on a slope above Krma). Right below the summit dwarf pines entirely replace until then prevailing larches. The peak itself is rocky and grassy.
From the top, we descend about 200 length meters, we then start looking for the footpath which we will bring us to the notch between Macesnovec and Dimniki. The terrain is wild and pathless, so belaying with a rope is recommended! From small notch we ascend approximately 30 altitude meters towards the wall, which on more or less easy route will bring us to the summit of Dimniki. I divided the route on three parts, first mountain wall is approximately 50 meters high and brings us on very nice ledge, covered with dwarf pines (belay point), second pitch (most difficult) we make on the sharp ridge of Dimniki to the next plain, which brings us to the last wall. Last mountain wall offers super climbing of the upper third grade and brings us about 100 altitude meters below the peak of Dimniki. There are two peaks, we descend forward towards "žaga", but we avoid žaga! We are avoiding rock spikes and ridge on the left (Krma) side. We soon get to outside corner, which runs on Luknja peč (easy II-III), there is also an option to bypass and through the window PP on the northern side from there on the ledge to first gully, through the gully upwards and then past "Sculpture" back on PP and on "normal route on LP (crumbly I-II). From Luknja peč we descend on normal route to "path". In front of us opens ridge of Rjavina, we are avoiding problems on left (Krma) side, but route goes more or less firmly on the sharp ridge, on a ridge are two descents with rope and one more demanding chimney (IV). Descends are equipped, chimney as well. In pleasant climbing (II-III) we slowly move forward to the last secondary peak of Rjavina (flake!, demanding, friction). We soon come on point where a view opens up on cairn and the peak of Rjavina (from here to the top a little less than 100 meters). After all day long climbing we finally enjoy a rest, because wilderness is stunning. If roped party team is experienced it will manage the ridge (access, climbing, descent) in 10h-15h hours) otherwise we need to carry equipment for bivouac. In terms of climbing is this ridge one of harder (access on Dimniki IV-). We descend on climbing path back in Kot, or on the ridge to the mountain hut Staničev dom.
Equipment: rope, few pitons, some butterfly and stopper. There are anchors, pitons (few) as well. Ridge was in the winter already skied. Safe and scenic ascent wishes you Pipi Naveza.
Pictures:
The Kot Valley - Rjavina1
The Kot Valley - Rjavina2
The Kot Valley - Rjavina3
The Kot Valley - Rjavina4
The Kot Valley - Rjavina5
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The Kot Valley - Rjavina7
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The Kot Valley - Rjavina19
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